DIY: S65 M3 Rod Bearing

[Helmsman]

Cheers guys. Interesting to learn and understand, tad provocative only to gently push answers.

Green-Eggs, if Bert=Robert, yes we had a discussion over the M3Cutters. That round didn't conclude the variation for me and I didn't get the binning/matching bit. Clearar now, thanks.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by Helmsman

Cheers guys. Interesting to learn and understand, tad provocative only to gently push answers.

Green-Eggs, if Bert=Robert, yes we had a discussion over the M3Cutters. That round didn't conclude the variation for me and I didn't get the binning/matching bit. Clearar now, thanks.

Maybe it's best to open a new thread if there are more questions on the topic

This is supposed to be a DIY discussion. There are eight thousand other threads debating BE vs whatever

Thank you

[M3.Delight]

Thanks for the info!

[ec_E92]

Thanks a bunch for this DIY writeup and the video!!! I'm in the middle of this right now. For anyone wondering, you can use a 4-post lift. I lowered the car onto a large truck jackstand over the front center jack point and raised the car off the 4-post runways. Then I set jackstands under the front jack points and settled the car. The car is not level but I had already drained oil. Also to note, in doing this solo, I found removing the front pickup tube was necessary to remove the oil pan by myself and without a helper.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by ec_E92

Thanks a bunch for this DIY writeup and the video!!! I'm in the middle of this right now. For anyone wondering, you can use a 4-post lift. I lowered the car onto a large truck jackstand over the front center jack point and raised the car off the 4-post runways. Then I set jackstands under the front jack points and settled the car. The car is not level but I had already drained oil. Also to note, in doing this solo, I found removing the front pickup tube was necessary to remove the oil pan by myself and without a helper.

glad it was helpful!

Yes, if you're alone it's probably better to remove the front pickup tube directly

[iAjking]

I have 24k Miles on my 2008 E93 M3. I dont daily drive the thing and the previous owner didnt either. Do you think i should change the bearings now?

[pbonsalb]

If one of these motors has a rod bearing wear problem, it’s not necessarily related to the miles. That is why there is no rule of thumb for these motors — like change the rod bearings every 100k. I think the engine failure with the lowest miles was 6k miles.

Unfortunately it seems like 90% of removed bearings have excessive wear. Still, it’s like a lottery whether yours is going to fail or not. Maybe it will be fine for another 200k. No one knows and there is no reliable test you can do.

[ec_E92]

More to add as I'm getting my car buttoned up.

I did not have to remove the fan, however, it limits clearance to get a socket wrench on the crank to rotate.

Raising and aligning the subframe was a bit of a chore as I was also doing trans mounts/SSK/driveshaft so the whole motor/trans assy had rotated down from the main lift point above. I found the 4-post lift became invaluable as I was able to use a tray with bottle jack and jackstands to lift the subframe up and align.

Really not a bad job, just time consuming.

[SYT_Shadow]

glad you got it done. how did your bearings look?

I did rod bearings on a E46M this weekend and I had forgotten how much harder it was. At least 50% more time.

[ec_E92]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

glad you got it done. how did your bearings look?

I did rod bearings on a E46M this weekend and I had forgotten how much harder it was. At least 50% more time.

I need to add to the registry but not terrible (or great though).

2008 120k, I've owned since 2009@12k. I've used liqimoly 10w60 exclusively since warranty expired. Around 30k (when blessed with the paranoia of rod bearings) I started doing 7.5k OCI. At 60k I started collecting blackstone reports with every OCI. I have all of this data still. At 100k I switched to 5k OCI (also because I'm not driving the car as much). My Blackstone's have been super consistent and incredibly low since 60k. I finally succumbed to paranoia and decided to install the BE shells I've had on a shelf for 2 years. It was good timing. Some copper is showing on #1 and #8 edge.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by ec_E92

I need to add to the registry but not terrible (or great though).

2008 120k, I've owned since 2009@12k. I've used liqimoly 10w60 exclusively since warranty expired. Around 30k (when blessed with the paranoia of rod bearings) I started doing 7.5k OCI. At 60k I started collecting blackstone reports with every OCI. I have all of this data still. At 100k I switched to 5k OCI (also because I'm not driving the car as much). My Blackstone's have been super consistent and incredibly low since 60k. I finally succumbed to paranoia and decided to install the BE shells I've had on a shelf for 2 years. It was good timing. Some copper is showing on #1 and #8 edge.

those look quite worn, but not in the oh my God we are all going to die level

[SAMM3Y]

Did mine about 5 weeks ago and I'm happy to report the engine is purring and pulling like a champ, couldn't have done it without this excellent write up so thanks so much SYT! I used the ARP 625 bolts and found you need a 7/16" 12 point for torquing, they have a different head then the BE ARP bolts.. also they suggest a stretch gauge or if a stretch gauge isn't available torquing to 60lbs.. you can feel them stretch when they get up there I think I left them at about 58.5lbs... also didn't have a long t30 for the oil pan but used a 1/4" t30 hex bit with a few hex extensions and a 1/4" wrench. Did the majority in a long day and buttoned it up the following after work. Haven't had to touch it since. It was fun, makes me want to do another! Thanks again..

[Stanbul_76]

This might be a little late to ask but I have not seen any torque specs on the oil pick up tubes and the bracket? Plus does all screws for oil pickup tube and bracket get blue locktite?

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by Barish76

This might be a little late to ask but I have not seen any torque specs on the oil pick up tubes and the bracket? Plus does all screws for oil pickup tube and bracket get blue locktite?

they get blue loctite and they are 10Nm like the rest of the small bolts inside the engine

[tdott]

Originally Posted by SAMM3Y

Did mine about 5 weeks ago and I'm happy to report the engine is purring and pulling like a champ, couldn't have done it without this excellent write up so thanks so much SYT! I used the ARP 625 bolts and found you need a 7/16" 12 point for torquing, they have a different head then the BE ARP bolts.. also they suggest a stretch gauge or if a stretch gauge isn't available torquing to 60lbs.. you can feel them stretch when they get up there I think I left them at about 58.5lbs... also didn't have a long t30 for the oil pan but used a 1/4" t30 hex bit with a few hex extensions and a 1/4" wrench. Did the majority in a long day and buttoned it up the following after work. Haven't had to touch it since. It was fun, makes me want to do another! Thanks again..

Did you read any of this before deciding on AR625?
http://wiki.rcollins.org/core/index..../S85_Rod_Bolts

60ft-lb they produce bore distortion.


"ARP-2000 rod bolts are also available from BE Bearings. We call these BE-ARP. These bolts for S65/S85 are custom made by ARP for BE Design (aka BE Bearings). The BE-ARP rod bolts have been thoroughly tested at different torque ratings to ensure the best setting to match OEM clamping force with minimum bore distortion. ARP does not manufacture and sell these bolts to the public. You can only get these through the BE Bearings web store @ http://www.bebearings.com/store, or a BE Bearings reseller."

[Stanbul_76]

What if I wanted to use OEM bearings can the BE-ARP bolts still be used or should I be using OEM bolts?

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by Barish76

What if I wanted to use OEM bearings can the BE-ARP bolts still be used or should I be using OEM bolts?

Yes, you could also use the OEM bolts.

Remember you can always use the OEM bolts regardless of which bearing you want.

The main problem with the OEM bolts is their torque sequence is a horrible PITA.

[Stanbul_76]

Yea lol they are a real pain your right. So my question was can the BE-ARP bolts be used with OEM Bmw bearings?

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by Barish76

Yea lol they are a real pain your right. So my question was can the BE-ARP bolts be used with OEM Bmw bearings?

Yes and yes

I've only done like 9 bearing installs but all of them (including my two personal cars) use the BE Bearings

[Stanbul_76]

At 9 installs I would say your a pro at it. Too bad BE bearings are out of stock when I talked to the guy at BE last week.

[tdott]

Originally Posted by Barish76

Yea lol they are a real pain your right. So my question was can the BE-ARP bolts be used with OEM Bmw bearings?

Why would you use the worse bearings available on the market today? Also with no chance to fix the underlying issue,.

[tdott]

Originally Posted by Barish76

At 9 installs I would say your a pro at it. Too bad BE bearings are out of stock when I talked to the guy at BE last week.

Then go for ACL, VAC or WPC treated before OEM.