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09-15-2019, 08:14 AM | #10297 | |
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Specifically, learning to go fast at NYST is a process. Almost every turn is blind. Almost every turn has an on-camber line and off camber line. This is done to drain water and the track is very good at not pooling water. Every car has its own fast line and that line is not obvious. Most drivers can get to 1:40 with capable cars, but not a lot of 3500Lbs cars can go below 1:40, because 18 turns require tossing the car, something that is hard to do with 3500Lbs Most people, including myself, don't have access to suspension engineers or pit crew to adjust things. So... this is why it is not one factor, but a culmination of adjustments that I systematically changed during this summer and previous summers. Here are the specific factors that helped with 1:35 and what I have done this season track days including Friday: Friday 1. Cool day - good for the supercharger 2. Sunny - good for track surface temp 3. New brake pads 4. New Hoosier set During the 2019 season 1. Clicking the JRZ +1 trackdays ago front and back to the stiffer fast dumping yet. 2. Rebound to half way (12 clicks) slower than last year 3. Adjusting the slow dumping -1 4. Raising the JRZ nitrogen PSI from 200 to 250 5. Practicing going slow on the straights and fast in the corners on high gear to learn momentum 6. Practicing with the DSC off, going a bit slower (1:38-1:40) to feel the car better. We can call this "learning to trust the Hoosier grip" but the real issue is "how" do you learn to trust the grip? You can also say in reasonable certainty that after three years I am a better driver, but again what are the specifics that make one a better driver? Most people I have met at the track are still trying to break 1:42s The next thing I am trying is to adjust the sway bars. I moved the rear Hotckins to the third and stiffer hole to see if I can get the rear to swing out a bit better. The fronts are still on the third hole which is second softest. I may move it to the second (stiffer) hole but not before I see what the rear is doing. It is all very interesting to figure out.... |
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09-15-2019, 08:17 AM | #10298 | ||
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09-16-2019, 01:22 AM | #10299 |
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interesting read. i haven't seen these applied on any exhausts (that i'm aware of) on our cars.
https://nasaspeed.news/tech/engine/t...-of-an-engine/
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09-16-2019, 01:11 PM | #10300 | |
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09-16-2019, 05:06 PM | #10302 |
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Has anyone used Raybestos ST43 pads? I need something a little bit lower torque than my current Hawk DTC-60 setup. I'm getting into the ABS too quickly which is just killing my ability to modulate. Even with these huge tires, they're still not a race tire so I think I'm overwhelming them.
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09-16-2019, 05:19 PM | #10303 |
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I have used st43's, but not hawk 60's so I can't directly compare them. They were a decent pad, but not my favorite (dsuno). I did like then better than the ds1.11 though.
I had the perception that they ran really hot and were hard on the rotors though... Have you tried cobalt yet? I really liked the xr1's, but they didn't last long for me with mdm on.
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09-16-2019, 06:34 PM | #10304 | |
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So far have gotten two different answers from my "brake guys": KNS told me to try the ST43 because it's a little bit lower friction but still gives good life. They have used it on cars with street tires and didn't experience ABS intervention. I asked about the DS2500 and he said no, that's a street pad (I disagree, it's a hybrid). Kinda pricey at $400 for the front axle though. Zeckhausen suggested going back to a hybrid pad like the DS2500, and that I should just monitor consumption. I had actually used them after I got the car and found them to be decent -- no fade and consumption on par with the Hawks. Ended up dumping them because the Hawks were cheaper. The Ferodos are about $300 for the front axle and have come down a bit in price it seems.
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09-16-2019, 07:13 PM | #10305 | |
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09-16-2019, 07:47 PM | #10306 | |
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For $525 I can go get Pagid RS19/29 in a direct fit. But what's the point of an endurance pad in this situation? Those are designed for sustained high temps. I don't have a heat issue here.
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09-16-2019, 07:52 PM | #10307 | |
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09-16-2019, 07:54 PM | #10308 |
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Again, explain to me why I want an endurance pad here. I'm not having issues with overheating pads or excessive consumption. Is a $525 endurance pad going to last 50% longer than the $300 Hawk?
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09-16-2019, 08:02 PM | #10309 | |
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i run ds2500's on the street. great pads. i have ran them as backups at the track and they hold up pretty good, but these ap j-hook rotors eat them up fast in track conditions. at the very least, pick up the phone and speak with andie at cobalt friction. he's a stand up guy and will be able to point you in the right direction based on what you're describing what you want out of a pad.
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09-16-2019, 08:06 PM | #10310 |
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ds1.11's didn't last much longer than dsunos did for me... maybe 1/2 day longer, i didn't care for them.
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09-16-2019, 08:52 PM | #10311 | |
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I will not be using PFC buit have the same calipers as you. IIRC 4362.08.19.44 fits? FWIW, GTR IS the thicker pad. All the rest while the same shape... are thinner. |
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09-16-2019, 09:17 PM | #10312 | |
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The overall length is correct (~189mm) and the annulus is very close (64mm versus my 65mm). The biggest hold-up seems to be pad thickness which is ~19mm, whereas mine typically calls for ~16.5mm. Pro Systems in Mooresville, NJ can do it. Porterfield probably can too. But for this to be even remotely cost effective you'd probably need to do 3 or more sets at once. But those are $620 each! Unless those literally last twice as long as the Hawks, no way is that worth it. Also, I have run the 2500 on track. It's fine, but I certainly wouldn't do it on something with tons of power and R comps. Worked on my M3's StopTech kit, my old S4, and even on the Corvette.
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09-16-2019, 09:44 PM | #10313 |
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DS2500 is fine if not pushing or a relatively light car ie clubman/hot hatch etc.
If there's at least 2mm from the face of the disc to the pad, it might be ok yet grabby. If other people with a GS get away fitting Ti plates to 16.5(16.6mm) pads, it'll be fine without them of course. Audis are heavy, in fact experience in that is the car that told me DS2500 is pretty "meh". Incredibly narrow window where they really only shone on moderately hard street driving. Nothing more, nothing less. Funnily enough I will use them again in conjunction with DSUno for ease of bedding. I don't drive the car long or high speed enough to bed them in prior. I'd rather DS Sport if it was a feasible option though. |
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09-16-2019, 09:55 PM | #10314 |
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Yeah, they will. And it'll stop just as good, with better modulation and on/off characteristics. Give em a try.
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09-16-2019, 09:56 PM | #10315 |
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Are you going to reimburse me if I don't like them?
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09-17-2019, 08:20 AM | #10316 |
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I just did a light track day on my DS2500’s on my stoptechs and this was my first experience with this pad on a track. I agree with the Brake Guy (they and everybody else gets their Ferodo pads from Essex, btw unless I missed something). DS2500 is a street pad that won’t disintegrate on track, so I guess if that’s what you want to call a hybrid sure fine. I think a lot of the light, slow car brake knowledge is misapplied to 450+hp ground pounders by some sales folks.
They never completely go away and leave with no brakes like a stock/street pad, so that’s a big improvement over most OEM pads. But they are definitely not a track pad capable of hanging in there at 10/10hs fo multiple laps on anything with some power. I was on Conti ECS street tires because it was a spur of the moment thing and the brakes still had to be managed at a track that admittedly doesn’t give the brakes much rest (1.6 miles, ~70 second lap, 8 turns, 5 brake events, one from 130-ish into turn 1 and then 4 more in quick succession). Maybe with ducting I could have pounded on them for 20 minutes straight but that’s still on a true street tire, not even a super-200 or the like. So yeah. Way better than stock or even most true street pads, because they won’t kill you when they get hot, but not up to the task of consistent tracking on a 3500lb, 130mph+ car
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09-17-2019, 08:58 AM | #10317 |
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Anyone run an E9x M3 in SCCA wheel to wheel? Looks like T1 would be the class?
From what I can tell T1 looks pretty open to mods. Since we are modifying the intake it looks like we would have to run restrictor plates & have a minimum weight of 3300 w/driver. |
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09-17-2019, 08:59 AM | #10318 |
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T2 at a heavier weight and limited mods is an option too iirc, unless something has changed. A few have been built for T2 in the past, and a run pretty close to the front. Touring is a spend your way to near the front and then drive the rest of the way there class, sooooo beware the development curve heh
I bet Fall Line et al might have a line on some already-built cars. Always one or two for sale at a discount to the cost of building SCCA has not yet seen the light and built a Super Touring power to Wright class for 3L-7L cars but T1 is probably the closest thing to it
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