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06-18-2018, 03:31 PM | #1 |
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Break Bleed Clairification
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I've changed the brake pads enough times to know that process. Here is my question. I don't know if I will be able to have all 4 wheels off of the car at the same time. What is the correct order of changing the pads and the fluid. Is it all 4 pads first then flush the fluid? Can I do one corner at a time, back passenger pads and fluid then move on the the other three sides? When I am changing the pads I know you have to start the car and pump the pedal a few times, is it necessary to achieve pressure before flushing the fluid? Also, I am using Castrol SRF fluid so I would prefer to drain the reservoir on the car then add new fluid and just use the bleeder as a pressure on the reservoir and not actually fill the bleeder reservoir. Thanks, |
06-18-2018, 04:14 PM | #2 |
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I'm no expert but I'd say you should change all your pads first. Then start the brake bleed process starting with the rear passenger corner. If you try and change pad and bleed the same corner I'd be afraid when you press the calipers in to fit the new pads at the next corner it might push old fluid into the corner you just bled.
Someone else can opine of that logic . |
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06-18-2018, 04:42 PM | #3 |
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Change the pads first. I can see dealing with bleeding while trying to push out the pistons from a pad change being vague and frustrating. I'd imagine you'd have to push more fluid than necessary as well.
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06-18-2018, 05:05 PM | #4 |
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It doesn't matter the order of pads but it does for bleeding so changed pads and bleed each corner at the same time starting with rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger, then front driver's side. Farthest from master cylinder to nearest. If this is first change, baste out as much as possible first, then fill with new before starting. ...and it's brake.
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06-18-2018, 06:11 PM | #5 |
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Both pads are worn the same so I will not need to push the caliper in. I was thinking about pushing the rear passenger cylinder all the way in the push as much fluid into the reservoir as possible and then drain it. Although it may not be necessary. I do not have access to a lift, and may not be able to get the rear of the car on jackstands, I don't want to jack up a corner change pads, then put the wheel back on just to have to take it off again to bleed it.
Wow what a noob, I know it is Brake. Bonus pic from Laguna on Sat. |
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06-18-2018, 06:45 PM | #6 |
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06-18-2018, 06:48 PM | #7 |
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06-21-2018, 02:32 PM | #8 |
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My plan is to buy 4 jack stands, some wood blocks and another jack. Drive the car up on blocks and see if I can get the jack to the Diff and front jack point. Wish me luck.
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06-28-2018, 09:35 PM | #10 |
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It's pads first. When you're done, the fluid should be a max level with full pads. So you'll never have to worry about the brake reservoir on the master cylinder overflowing and ruining that sensor that's right below it.
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06-28-2018, 11:55 PM | #11 |
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06-29-2018, 04:46 PM | #12 |
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Highly recommend ESCO jack stands for ultimate safety.
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06-29-2018, 05:08 PM | #13 |
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Update: Success, job went well. Just bought some 2.5 inch ramps drove the car up. Jacked from Diff and front center point with a wood block for extra clearance. Put the car on standard jackstands which did not deform the jack points at all.
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