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      01-14-2026, 02:52 AM   #1
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Need Help: Intermittent Check Engine with rough/loud engine with codes

I would apprecaite any help.
I'm the only owner of a 2011 car with 81,000 miles on it.
Rod bearings, throttle actuators have been done a while ago.
Car runs fine and then throws 1/2 a check engine light and runs like ass, rough and loud, red lime is limited to 5,000 RPM. Scanned the car and get the following results.
It happened a couple months ago goo while driving easy on the way home but all cylinders had misfires code then. It actually resolved by the time I got home.
Turn the engine off this time and it runs fine again with no check engine light.
I did change out the driver side post cat O2 sensor about a month ago after it threw a check engine light but told me which sensor was bad.
Thanks for any insight.
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Let me get this straight... You are swapping out parts designed by some of the top engineers in the world because some guys sponsored by a company told you it's "better??" But when you ask the same guy about tracking, "oh no, I have a kid now" or "I just detailed my car." or "i just got new tires."
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      01-14-2026, 10:16 AM   #2
omgzirra_exe
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swap your Bank 2 IG Coils with your Bank 1 IG Coils and see if the misfires switch to Bank 1.

Also check exhaust donut gasket, a lot of times these can solve it.
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      01-14-2026, 06:34 PM   #3
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My header to X-pipe exhaust leaks like crazy.
I've replace it many times but it doesn't seem to seal well with the Akra or the Evolve X-pipe. I even tried some GM gasket someone mentioned on a FB e9x group.

Could this be a bad O2 sensor? I only replace the driver side post cat sensor since it went bad a few months ago.
Last time this happened a couple months ago, I had all cylinders misfiring.

Thanks for the idea on the exhaust gasket.
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Let me get this straight... You are swapping out parts designed by some of the top engineers in the world because some guys sponsored by a company told you it's "better??" But when you ask the same guy about tracking, "oh no, I have a kid now" or "I just detailed my car." or "i just got new tires."
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      01-14-2026, 07:36 PM   #4
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If your exhaust is leaking that would be the first thing I'd fix before doing any other troubleshooting.
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      01-14-2026, 11:04 PM   #5
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You will repeatedly kill O2 sensors with an exhaust leak that big.
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      01-15-2026, 09:10 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aus View Post
My header to X-pipe exhaust leaks like crazy.
I've replace it many times but it doesn't seem to seal well with the Akra or the Evolve X-pipe. I even tried some GM gasket someone mentioned on a FB e9x group.

Could this be a bad O2 sensor? I only replace the driver side post cat sensor since it went bad a few months ago.
Last time this happened a couple months ago, I had all cylinders misfiring.

Thanks for the idea on the exhaust gasket.
Did you replace the exhaust clamp? Those absolutely need to be replaced. They stretch over time and stop sealing.

And definitely don’t use the GM gasket. I have no idea why people keep recommending that thing. It’s not designed for this car, and once you remove the reinforcement ring to “make it fit,” it becomes weak and blows out even faster. Total bandaid fix if you need it though when you can't get a OEM gasket same day.

Stick with the OEM donut gasket. It crushes properly and seals the joint the way it’s supposed to. I’d replace both the gasket and the clamps.
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      01-15-2026, 10:41 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by omgzirra_exe View Post
Did you replace the exhaust clamp? Those absolutely need to be replaced. They stretch over time and stop sealing.

And definitely don’t use the GM gasket. I have no idea why people keep recommending that thing. It’s not designed for this car, and once you remove the reinforcement ring to “make it fit,” it becomes weak and blows out even faster. Total bandaid fix if you need it though when you can't get a OEM gasket same day.

Stick with the OEM donut gasket. It crushes properly and seals the joint the way it’s supposed to. I’d replace both the gasket and the clamps.
Thanks for the heads up on the clamps.
I've replaced the OEM ones liek 4 times now and was willing to try something new but never replaced the clamps. The clamps make sense since it's good for a few weeks after changing them and then it sticks again.

I REALY hope it's not the coils packs because those are $$$$$$$.

Thank you all.
.
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Let me get this straight... You are swapping out parts designed by some of the top engineers in the world because some guys sponsored by a company told you it's "better??" But when you ask the same guy about tracking, "oh no, I have a kid now" or "I just detailed my car." or "i just got new tires."
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      01-15-2026, 11:20 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aus View Post
Thanks for the heads up on the clamps.
I've replaced the OEM ones liek 4 times now and was willing to try something new but never replaced the clamps. The clamps make sense since it's good for a few weeks after changing them and then it sticks again.

I REALY hope it's not the coils packs because those are $$$$$$$.

Thank you all.
.
Sorry, when I said clamps I meant the rear section clamps lol.

For the header-to-x-pipe connection, I bought new bolts and nuts because I’ve had the OEM nut back itself off and disappear before.

I’ve also used Permatex exhaust sealant on the x-pipe flange once just to help it seat better. Not required, but helps?
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      01-15-2026, 12:01 PM   #9
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I'll try anything at this time.
Thanks again!
.
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Let me get this straight... You are swapping out parts designed by some of the top engineers in the world because some guys sponsored by a company told you it's "better??" But when you ask the same guy about tracking, "oh no, I have a kid now" or "I just detailed my car." or "i just got new tires."
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