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02-28-2021, 07:23 PM | #69 |
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I'm confused here (grateful for the DIY by the way, of course).
The subframe bushings are four: two big ones, and two small ones. The two big ones (blue circled) should be installed with the lips facing the bottom. And the two small ones (red circled) should be installed with lips facing the top. Right? But the picture of the OP shows that all of them were installed with lips facing bottom. |
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02-28-2021, 09:51 PM | #70 |
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Just browsing your pics, is this a crack in your subframe??
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02-28-2021, 10:44 PM | #71 |
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The photo above that one makes it look to be just a streak in the dust, but man you have the attention to detail!
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02-28-2021, 11:43 PM | #72 | |
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I'd confirm orientation with the vendor/manufacturer, I made the mistake of beginning install of bw bushings in the same orientation as oem, which turned out to not be correct. Had to destroy the incorrect bushing to get it out and buy a whole new set to get the one I fudged up.
If you have the bw ones, they all go in bottom up like the op. Quote:
Last edited by M43S7RO; 02-28-2021 at 11:53 PM.. |
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03-01-2021, 05:32 AM | #73 | |
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Mine is Precision Works let me see if I can find some pictures |
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03-01-2021, 06:07 AM | #75 |
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But I can observe that the small ones have the lip in the side that the hole stays inside the subframe, instead of the side that the hole goes out the subframe, as the oem ones.
So I guess they are supposed to be installed like the big ones, lips facing bottom. MAN, it lacked juuust a little for me to do it wrong. Thanks guys. |
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03-01-2021, 03:39 PM | #77 |
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You need a 10 ton press.
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03-01-2021, 08:28 PM | #79 |
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If they are Turner (which they do look like), both flanges face down towards the ground.
http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3...A_INS_Rev1.pdf |
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03-01-2021, 09:45 PM | #80 |
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Here is a thread of MRF doing the install for JEllis years ago. Good info ...with pics.
https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=926758
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03-02-2021, 12:40 PM | #81 |
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Two bigger ones done!!!
Didn't go with the press because it's too expensive in Brazil. U$ 200.00 aprox. It went on with grease, metal cuts for angle corrections, and a 4 ton hydraulic jack. And weldings. Many weldings. Pics are coming. Unfortunately I didn't put the flange cutouts oriented anyway, because I didn't see any mention of that, actually I asked here, but nobody answered, so I thought it didn't matter. I hope it doesn't, although Turner's instructions says to put it in a certain way. But I didn't see that before. |
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03-02-2021, 02:42 PM | #83 | |
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I like the custom tool you made for the bottle jack.
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03-04-2021, 07:10 AM | #85 |
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Does it seem okay?
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05-13-2021, 04:09 AM | #87 | |
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Hi. First of all, thanks for sharing your DIY job. I’m about to attempt this but with poly bushings for my rear subframe and differential. Before I start, just want to make sure I have all the parts needed ready. What are the bolts you replace while you’re in there doing the job? Or did you reuse the old ones? Either way, looking at the diagram below, bolts that you’ll untorq/torq’d are #6, 10, 11, 13 and 14. Could you kindly confirm this? Thanks man. Great job by the way. https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=33_1408 |
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05-13-2021, 08:11 AM | #88 | |
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I did not replace the diff bushings, which is why I chosed not to remove the diff, and so, not to undo the number 10, 11, 13 and 14 bolts. No regrets on that for now. Great improvement with only the subframe bushings. And I did reuse the number 6 bolts. |
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