A few questions about rod bearings diy

[Glacial Pace]

Sorry, I know this has been covered a million times, and honestly I feel like I have read all of those threads lol. I have a couple of fringe questions though, I would like to make sure I am doing the best job that I can.
1: Using OEM rod bolts, I have ordered these already, and maybe I'm having buyers remorse, but if I can save some money on these then that is money that can be put into other things, like suspension refresh. Anyway, do I fully remove the bolt between each torquing procedure? Or just loosen it? If I remove it then I clean it with just a clean rag and re oil right? I have the use of a snap on digital wrench with angle torque function so I am confident I can get the torque correct, it will just take longer.
2: Subframe and oil pan bolts, I have read that these should be replaced, but it seems like most people reuse them? Any input on this subject?

[pbonsalb]

I did my M3 with OEM bolts and a friend's M3 with VAC ARP bolts back in 2014-2015. Stock bolts were cheap back then, but I understand prices are up now. The savings is probably not worth the hassle, but you did not specify the savings.

You do not fully remove the bolt. You loosen it enough to repeat the torque procedure. I forget exactly, but it is something like 190 movements in total to use stock bolts versus about 1/4 of that to do any version of the ARPs. Pay attention. Have a checkoff sheet if you are not seriously attentive. This is not a job for someone with ADD. Basically, you are prestretching the bolts by doing the process twice before the final.

Reuse the subframe bolts. You can reuse the oil pan bolts, but make sue you use the exact size torx so you do not mess up the head. Put the bolts through the cardboard that comes with the new pan gasket so you know where each length bolt goes. You will need a long female torx -- like 4 to 6" (I forget) so buy one or come up with a skinny extension adapter that can reach into the deep cavity on a few of the bolts.

[Glacial Pace]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

I did my M3 with OEM bolts and a friend's M3 with VAC ARP bolts back in 2014-2015. Stock bolts were cheap back then, but I understand prices are up now. The savings is probably not worth the hassle, but you did not specify the savings.

You do not fully remove the bolt. You loosen it enough to repeat the torque procedure. I forget exactly, but it is something like 190 movements in total to use stock bolts versus about 1/4 of that to do any version of the ARPs. Pay attention. Have a checkoff sheet if you are not seriously attentive. This is not a job for someone with ADD. Basically, you are prestretching the bolts by doing the process twice before the final.

Reuse the subframe bolts. You can reuse the oil pan bolts, but make sue you use the exact size torx so you do not mess up the head. Put the bolts through the cardboard that comes with the new pan gasket so you know where each length bolt goes. You will need a long female torx -- like 4 to 6" (I forget) so buy one or come up with a skinny extension adapter that can reach into the deep cavity on a few of the bolts.

Thanks for the reply.
The car I bought has pretty high mileage, about 175k miles, and since I don't know the history of the bolts I have bought new ones.
OEM bolts were about £200 less than ARP (I bought from evolve as I decided to get Mahle bearings, BE bearings are out of stock for a few more months)
I have a system devised for keeping track of the torque procedure, and I will be concentrating. No Instagram half way through the job haha.