Epic Motorsports Oil Diverter S65 initial results

[tdott]

Originally Posted by schnell1982

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-gates-pa...537836155~gat/

Just found this..

I bet it's the same motorad part for more $$.
71C = 160F

$18.50 shipped from rockauto.

[schnell1982]

Originally Posted by tdott

I bet it's the same motorad part for more $$.
71C = 160F

$18.50 shipped from rockauto.

Correct its the same, just different company.
I am running the Motorad brand in my clients vehicle with zero issues

[tlrid3r]

thanks for sharing.

[maicol76]

Originally Posted by schnell1982

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-gates-pa...537836155~gat/

Just found this..

This doesn't fit well with our engine. So I moved spring and center part into stock thermostat. After installing, both coolant and oil temp dropped during track driving. If Motorrad #880060 has perfect fit and don't need modification, Motorrad is the answer.

[GewoW]

On rockauto website, the right part # when selecting the m3 is 459160 (40$) vs the 880060.

Any thoughts? Anyone bought this yet?

Thx

[///M3 Gusta]

Would using an aftermarket oil thermostat work with warm ups or would this just defeat the point?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/irp-fsm-185

[amrazM]

Originally Posted by maicol76

This doesn't fit well with our engine. So I moved spring and center part into stock thermostat. After installing, both coolant and oil temp dropped during track driving. If Motorrad #880060 has perfect fit and don't need modification, Motorrad is the answer.

I have That gates thermostat and it fits without issue.

[BPMSport]

Can you share any difference in engine warm up time and or difference in oil pressure?

Strangely enough when using the MPorium undershield I saw a noticeable drop in temperature which was a very appreciated unexpected side benefit.

With Stage II I haven't run into any overheating issues yet but will likely do this. I'm just concerned about extended warmup times while the 10w-60 is nice and thick with the perfect bearing clearances we have

[BPMSport]

Touching base on this. "This is not recommended for street cars without the addition of a performance inline thermostat. Drive conservatively and allow extra time for the oil to reach optimal temp (>150 degrees)."

Everyone above seems to be speaking of a thermostat for the cooling system. My coolant temp has always been right around 200 which is just fine, so I don't see the need for an upgraded radiator or to change the thermostat.

However, I would be interested in an "inline" thermostat as referenced, to ensure the oil warms up quickly. After all, there has to be a reason why BMW has put such a restrictive device in the filter housing.

Can anyone shed light on the "inline thermostat"?

[BPMSport]

Originally Posted by ///M3 Gusta

Would using an aftermarket oil thermostat work with warm ups or would this just defeat the point?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/irp-fsm-185

Wouldn't defeat the point. The lower temperatures is a function of removing the restriction leading to increased flow, but this will have an unquestionable effect on warmup, which as we know can be a problematic lag to induce given the whole bearing debacle coupled with 10w60. Having a device that bypasses the cooler until oil reaches 180 ish, while allowing full oil flow when above would achieve the best results of keeping temps down, and reducing (not prolonging) warmup time.

Hotter climates can probably run the device without the thermostat, but in lower temp places I think this could be a disservice. Going to do some research on the inline oil thermostat and decide what to do from there. With Harrop stage II 85F outside and on the freeway at 85mph, AC on, my temps were about 225 yesterday. Definitely want to chop 20 degrees out if possible. I'm happy w/ my coolant temp, fine with it at 200, although going with a different (cooler) engine thermostat will likely lower oil temps slightly as well. 160 is definitely a bit under what I would be ok with on the coolant side. 180 would be my absolute minimum there.

[LastMCar]

Originally Posted by BPMSport

Wouldn't defeat the point. The lower temperatures is a function of removing the restriction leading to increased flow, but this will have an unquestionable effect on warmup, which as we know can be a problematic lag to induce given the whole bearing debacle coupled with 10w60. Having a device that bypasses the cooler until oil reaches 180 ish, while allowing full oil flow when above would achieve the best results of keeping temps down, and reducing (not prolonging) warmup time.

Hotter climates can probably run the device without the thermostat, but in lower temp places I think this could be a disservice. Going to do some research on the inline oil thermostat and decide what to do from there. With Harrop stage II 85F outside and on the freeway at 85mph, AC on, my temps were about 225 yesterday. Definitely want to chop 20 degrees out if possible. I'm happy w/ my coolant temp, fine with it at 200, although going with a different (cooler) engine thermostat will likely lower oil temps slightly as well. 160 is definitely a bit under what I would be ok with on the coolant side. 180 would be my absolute minimum there.

I’m still running this bypass. Nearly two years in my daily driver 625. I do live in Las Vegas, which is beneficial in warmups. I warm my car 3-5 minutes every cold start. I have done this for 20yrs on all of my M cars. Every M owner should be warming their cars, particularly ours. I continue to report nothing but positive outcomes with the bypass. Temps remain moderate in the worst of conditions. I have no desire to or need to add any other cooling mods.

[BPMSport]

Originally Posted by LastMCar

I'm still running this bypass. Nearly two years in my daily driver 625. I do live in Las Vegas, which is beneficial in warmups. I warm my car 3-5 minutes every cold start. I have done this for 20yrs on all of my M cars. Every M owner should be warming their cars, particularly ours. I continue to report nothing but positive outcomes with the bypass. Temps remain moderate in the worst of conditions. I have no desire to or need to add any other cooling mods.

If you have a chance to ever time it, I would love to see the warm up time perhaps on an evening drive in Vegas, when it's 50ish degrees. Mainly looking to compare the time it takes to reach 160ish degrees driving at 40-60 mph vs a stock car. I rarely get on the freeway immediately, but getting on the freeway within a couple minutes of starting might make it difficult to reach operating temp at 70+ mph (if cold outside and without the use of an oil thermostat, which is essentially what this piece replaces).

No question about the benefits in hotter temps, but it's all about finding a balance that fits the use of the car. Thanks!

[Fro826]

Ha, this is an awesome and timely-for-me thread - was just driving the M3 to work today for first time in a long time and thought "I wonder if the S65 has an aftermarket oil diverter valve like the one I bought for the N63 that would allow the oil to always flow to the cooler".

[Scharbag]

Originally Posted by LastMCar

Only found a couple threads mentioning this, but I also only looked or like 30 seconds.

Preface: I'm on my second e90 m3, current ride is ess625.
I live in Las Vegas which makes summer driving awful. I hate seeing the oil temp soar into the 230-240 range when it's 100+ degrees just daily driving. This was also an issue in the N/A S65 I owned previously. I know they run hot and I shouldn't be that worried, but I was, and it made driving 3 months out of the year shitty.

Experience: CsF radiator in the N/A M3 helped a little. Maybe a few degrees overall and faster water cool down. A great piece, but not as effective as I'd hoped for $500

Research: even guys running the whole csf outfit or alekshop oil cooler complained of marginal results.

Discovery: http://www.bimmerworld.com/Epic-Moto...it-E9X-M3.html

Install: Not so easy. Just a lot of bolts in tight places but very doable with this beautifully rendered description.
1. Remove fan and acc belt, remove the lower tensioner (2 bolts) and the upper roller. (1 bolt)
2. Remove power steering pulley (3 bolts), release 2 10mm bolts holding the in/out Ps lines in place(do not remove the actual fluid lines, it's not necessary)
3. Remove the PS pump bolts(3) pull the pump away from the motor and out of the way, plenty of flex in the lines to do this.
4 remove the (2/3) remaining bolts holding the acc bracket to the engine block (1) high, (1) low, (1) was removed when you pulled out the PS pump.
5. Loosen the two long bolts holding the AC compressor to the Acc bracket, they run parallel to the bumper. One can be accessed from underneath (remove belly pan) the other through the A/c lines

6. Once everything is loose you can pry/pop the acc bracket from the block. Some of the holes are sleeved so it needs leverage assistance.

7. Now that all this shit is out of the way, follow the included instructions to replace the thermostat. Once you see the size of the obstruction the thermostat creates you will start to get excited.

8. I chose to leave the housing in place, it's going to be way easier if you take the time to remove it, but you will need a new gasket. The spring in the filter housing is extremely strong and difficult to compress far enough to start threading the bolts once the Diverter valve is in place. This is why removing the housing is a better option. I had a unicorn help me, figure it out.

9. Replace everything as you took it out. It takes a bit of fidgeting and convincing to get the Acc bracket back into place because of the sleeving. There is some movement/flex in the ac compressor to help get things aligned.

10. If you didn't realize you should have drained out the oil, you're probably pissed and still on step 6. Everyone else, congrats.

Notes: couple busted knuckles. Good time to just do a full oil change. 4 hr job.


Results: 2 days of driving in 100+ temps. Unbelievable results. Oil temp peaked at about 220 driving fairly hard on the Ess625 car. The cool down is outstanding. My normal oil temps while at idle and cruising were closer to 200 with the A/c on at 105'. So very stoked on this piece. What a game changer!


Side note: There is a brass version on fleaBay for $20.

Can confirm - this is a total PITA job. That ACC bracket is just plain dumb. Many swears. Many many many swears. Thank you for the writeup!

But the oil T-Stat is now a diverter. Now it is time to test to see if my oil temps stay more reasonable. Will confirm once I go for a good rip.

Grr, still mad at that damn ACC bracket. Stupid place for dowels...

And this was my unicorn:

[Redd]

I purchased this oil diverter valve at least 5 years ago and only just got around to installing it. Guys this is the single best cooling mod you can do especially if you live in hot climates.

My M3 is my do everything car - daily driven, canyon carving and occasional trackdays. It has stock coolers. I live around the equator, so hot and wet climate all year round.

I had put off installing the diverter due to concerns about oil warm up taking too long. So let's get that out of the way first - I did not notice oil taking longer to reach 85C from cold. In fact, I thought it warmed up faster (but I did do a DCT heat exchanger delete at the same time so not sure if that has anything to do with it).

What I did notice:
1. On hot days oil temps were 5-8C lower even during normal driving.

2. Oil temps are much more stable. When the engine is hot It holds 103C consistently and doesn't spike up like it used to.

3. Oil temps drop much faster when there is air flow or cooler ambient temps (rain).

4. Oil temps are lower when it is cool outside (eg rain). I saw oil temps drop to 88C when I was sitting in traffic in the rain. Previously it would be 10-12C higher.

#4 might be a concern if you live in cold climates. But for hot climates this is a must do.

[rosemont83]

Add another part to the list of things I need lol

[amg6975]

Agree. I did this and added a second cooler and now even my coolant temps are way down on the track.