DIY: S65 M3 Rod Bearing

[SYT_Shadow]

That is insane. I feel for you

[Scharbag]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

So, I followed your advise, and got the torque wrench before moving forward to the others bearings. Actually I've got two, one is made by Tekton, the other is FL Feeling (chinese).

I don't know about their calibration, so I'll try to check the torque with both. What you think?




Brazil import taxes are 60% of (price + shipping). This is a federal tax. If I ship by Fedex, UPS, or DHL it get even more expensive, since they have to pay state taxes too, and the 60% becomes 110%.

Brazil's got a bad industry, and a bad importing policy. Who understands?

That's why the bearings (BE) are the only thing I can afford now.

FAAAK... That is terrible...

Perhaps you could buy a "used" skidplate from a member and have them ship it to you by snail mail...

Cheers,

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by Scharbag

FAAAK... That is terrible...

Perhaps you could buy a "used" skidplate from a member and have them ship it to you by snail mail...

Cheers,

Exactly. When I lived in Europe I was always buying car parts and all of them were used

[jvictormp]

Well, for this there is another rule, try not to laugh: used condition is prohibited.

Luckly it's not commonly applied. Used or new parts, they let it go.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

Well, for this there is another rule, try not to laugh: used condition is prohibited.

Luckly it's not commonly applied. Used or new parts, they let it go.

Horrible.

[Scharbag]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

Well, for this there is another rule, try not to laugh: used condition is prohibited.

Luckly it's not commonly applied. Used or new parts, they let it go.

SMH...

[jvictormp]

What about Tekton?

[pbonsalb]

Probably better than no name Chinese. I would use it. There is a way to do a DIY test. Google test torque wrench and you should find information.

[jvictormp]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

Probably better than no name Chinese. I wound use it. There is a way to do a DIY test. Google test torque wrench and you should find information.

Thank you so much for that idea, I just made the test.

Got a bucket of 460g, put 9540g of water, which sum 10kg, and I am at sea level, put it hanging on the torque wrench adjusted to 28,1 ft/lb which is the torque I calculated with this weight and the torque wrench lengh.

Man, both of them worked nice. It clicks right in that adjust.

Tried with 27 ft/lb adjust, clicks before I leave the bucket hanging completely.

Tried with 29 ft/lb adjust, doesn't click.

Unfortunately, I can't try with 50 ft/lb, because of the experiment limitations here.

Tried with the chinese, it went perfectly as well.

[jvictormp]

All bearings done. Should I rotate the engine and come checking every bolt torque again?

Rod bearings condition on the proper thread at the link below:

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showpo...postcount=1602

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

All bearings done. Should I rotate the engine and come checking every bolt torque again?

Rod bearings condition on the proper thread at the link below:

https://www.m3post.com/forums/showpo...postcount=1602

Once you've torqued them correctly stop. You can rotate the engine for fun, it's up to you

Time to enjoy the peace of mind of having new bearings!!

[jvictormp]

One doubt: do I need to put some chemical seal in the sump gasket? And how do I remove that old chemical seal?

It seemed to have a chemical seal there, when I removed the old gasket.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

One doubt: do I need to put some chemical seal in the sump gasket? And how do I remove that old chemical seal?

It seemed to have a chemical seal there, when I removed the old gasket.

the oil gasket of the E9X M3 goes on without any additional things. No 'gasket maker' or RTV, just the oil gasket

You'll have to strip your oil pan and the engine portion from all that crap

[jvictormp]

You think this tool would make scuffs at the sump?

[SYT_Shadow]

I would use brake cleaner. That tool will scratch the mating surfaces

I used an 'american blade', the kind of tool you use to remove stickers from windshields/glass one time and it worked out ok

[deansbimmer]

Originally Posted by jvictormp

You think this tool would make scuffs at the sump?

LOL. Uh, yes that would ruin your sealing surface...Good God....

Use a new straight edge razor and brake cleaner to clean off the sealant.

[jvictormp]

Thanks for the suggestion.

I don't have brake cleaner, so I used injector fuel cleaner. And you made me remember that I have a glass scraper. So I used it.

It's pretty plan and dry now, but I don't know if satisfactory. You think I should remove everything at all?

Should I remove oil from the engine mating surface too?

Edit: fuck that picture orientation.

[deansbimmer]

You need to remove ALL of the foreign material from both mating surfaces. And it needs to be clean and free of OIL or the new gasket won't seal long term. If you don't have brake clean, go get some lacquer thinner, denatured alcohol, or some kind of solvent that cuts oil and dries without a residue. Not mineral spirits, not turpentine, fuel injector cleaner, etc.

It helps to take the blade out of the holder. Hold it near vertically by hand and drag it across the gasket surface. That will scrape the gasket off without marring or cutting into the aluminum surface.

[jvictormp]

Nice, worked way better with the blade vertically, while applying fuel cleaner simultaneously. After that I applied isopropyl alcohol, and now it seems completely dry.

Made a little crappy movement, as you can see in a picture.

[pbonsalb]

That is what I did. Razor blade and brake clean.

If you feel up for a messy job, your coolant block drains and the most accessible they will be. Allen head plugs on each side above the header collectors (think of the area where the oil pan flares out towards the rear of the pan if the pan was attached).

[Scharbag]

I wonder why your pan gasket had goo on it. Had it been off before? If so, why?

Cheers,

[pbonsalb]

Did your gasket come off the pan and block clean and leave nothing behind? I remember scraping with a razor blade and running/wiping with brake clean and a rag. The gasket is metal/rubber and I assumed the rubber and compressed and stuck.