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01-23-2020, 03:01 PM | #441 |
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I did mine myself in 2014 and had never done S65 rod bearings before. The job is not difficult or complicated and does not require a high skill set. It requires patience and care and a good torque wrench. Thousands of M3s have had their bearings changed; shops in MA, NH, ME have done it. You don’t need to take your car to NJ, though shops there (and in many other states) have also done the job.
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01-23-2020, 03:27 PM | #442 | |
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01-23-2020, 04:07 PM | #444 | |
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01-23-2020, 06:11 PM | #445 | |
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How long ago did they do them and how many miles since? Feel free to PM me as to not derail this thread. |
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01-24-2020, 11:04 AM | #446 | ||
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The previous owner of my car did BE bearings and ARP bolts himself. He's never done the install before. It had 500 miles on the bearings when I bought it he says, and like 2000 since then (and one oil change). He seemed to know what he's doing and have the proper tools for the job. I could re buy everything and have a shop do it again but chances are it's got good new bearings and a good install so why throw away money on the off chance he made a mistake, he probably installed everything correctly, and if he didn't it probably would have been a problem by now. I don't baby the car, I always rev it to the power band when the car is up to temp. |
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01-24-2020, 12:46 PM | #447 | |
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As others have said, APR bolts are dead easy to torque. Just buy a good torque wrench. I bought a Westward that happened to have been calibrated at 50 ftlb for about $250. Make sure you do not mix up the bearing caps - this is pretty easy if you only do one rod at a time. Put the cap back on the right way - also hard to mess up with fractured rods as it is very obvious. Use the right amount of assembly lube or oil to ensure they do not start up dry. Personally, I hand tighten both rod blots to make sure the cap is on right. Then I walk both bolts up to 50 ftlb over 3 steps. The big test for me is once torqued, grab the bearing cap and make sure it has easy side play. If it does not slide on the crank with very little effort, something is not right. Once I torque each bolt, I put a dab of pink assembly lube on it to mark it as done. Again, not skilled, difficult or complicated. It just requires some patience, care and the proper tools. But let me tell you, my arsehole was fully puckered when I pressed start for the first time after changing the bearings... That was ~28,000KM ago and she is still going strong. Cheers,
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01-30-2020, 09:33 PM | #448 | |
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01-30-2020, 10:52 PM | #449 | ||
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01-31-2020, 05:24 AM | #450 |
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You seem to be into DIYing since you have bought a lot of tools. Just get someone who has done it to help you. Learn and improve your skills. Danny has done about 10. I had a mechanic friend stop by for a few hours while I was doing mine to make sure I was doing it right and then I helped a friend do his.
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02-16-2020, 09:54 PM | #451 | |
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I did get another long block w/ 44k miles and tried to order BE brgs but guess what back ordered till mid March. So I went with VAC. I will do the work myself, measure all bearings, and plastigage too to get a warm fussy! Check it out here on Youtube link: The top picture of OEM brgs when they came out at 80k miles. lower picture is Aftermarket brgs at 1 day of use after rod failure. My analysis: Under-torque of Rod bearings, letting loose, at least one cap, which destroyed the adjoining one. 2 con-rods went, 3 of bolts found cut and bent. 1 Rod bolt found practically intact, unbent, all thread clean of damage. minor bolt head damage. I suspect this is the bolt that backed out and drop to the bottom of the pan. Failure happened 1 day after RB replacement, at the track, first session of the day. (Yes engine was nice and warm b4 hand, no there is no break-in period for these bearings) Oil: Amsoil signature 50 weight |
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02-17-2020, 12:41 AM | #452 | ||
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02-17-2020, 08:55 PM | #453 | |
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Carrillo Rods are torqued to 55 ft-lbs, and VAC ARP to 45 ft-lbs. I think they only did it to 45. |
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02-17-2020, 09:45 PM | #454 | ||
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BE ARP are 50ftlb. It would surprise me if 45 would let go that fast if 55 was the spec. 45 is still fairly tight. I wonder if they just forgot to check all of the bolts and had one or two hand tight? Guess it would be hard to know now given the blender it became. Very costly mistake and I am so very sorry to hear that it happened. Hope that it works out ok. Cheers,
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02-18-2020, 11:04 AM | #455 |
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Isn't there a break in period after you do your bearings? A lot of the local shops here recommend driving at least 1500 KMs before getting on it again
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02-18-2020, 11:39 AM | #456 |
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None should be necessary. There is supposed to no bearing to crank contact so there is nothing to break in. You could drive gently for a day in case the shop did not put the car back together right - maybe you would catch a problem before it got bad.
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02-18-2020, 12:27 PM | #457 | |
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I'm not an expert, though. |
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02-18-2020, 02:40 PM | #458 |
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Sorry to hear. Yet another reason for me to NOT change my bearings preemptively. I don't care how many of these jobs a shop has done, there's always a chance they could mess something up and this is the result.
Your original bearings looked fine, no?
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02-18-2020, 02:43 PM | #459 |
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He didn't mention the shop, so we don't know how many times they've done the job. Unless I missed that reply.
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02-19-2020, 10:28 AM | #460 |
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@ItsGary: no break-in period, I specifically asked and got an answer via email from Lang Racing.
I did drive the car for a like an hour before hand, no issues, higher revs too. The problem with running the OEM bearings is that if you bought the car new, and know you let it warm up, then the chances your brgs are good to go is great! But if you bought the car used, and had 2-3 previous owners, you really dont know the conditions of the brgs! Below are the original brgs, and they did not look that bad for 80k miles. |
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02-19-2020, 11:36 AM | #461 |
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I would say less than 10% of removed bearings look fine. At least 90% of those posted look prematurely worn. At the same time, probably 75% of M3 are still on their original bearings and experiencing no problems so far (a few percent failed and the rest were replaced preventatively). It’s each owner’s decision whether to replace preventatively for around $2k or run the risk of catastrophic engine failure for $10-15k. I changed mine at 60k in 2014 when my extended warranty expired. Mine looked a little worse that ItsGary’s bearings. I had no copper showing in the center of the bearing but I did have copper showing along the parting line and down the sides from the parting line.
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02-19-2020, 11:37 AM | #462 | |
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100% disagree on the warm-up comment. No amount of proper care, maintenance, magic oil and/or babying will eliminate the problem if your bearings are too tight to allow for proper oil flow at high RPM. Perhaps proper care will prolong the inevitable, but the problem remains. There have been many sets of low mileage, well-cared-for bearings that come out of the S65 looking like garbage. People who RELIGIOUSLY cared for their cars have spun bearings. Very sorry for your engine blending itself. I hope it work out with the shop. Cheers,
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