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03-04-2019, 04:24 PM | #24 | |
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The vendor also replaced reduction gears in TA and engine mounts, but before anyone thinks I've saved money I need new rear tyres and the engine missed a fire on startup this morning. It was like a micro-second cut-off, but start up continued on. Never had that before and I'm thinking the usual culprits -- coils/plugs/vacuum tubes... none of which will be cheap. Of course, could just be a blip. I'm also guessing the usual DCT oil pan as well, but will know later this month after a check by my Trusty Mechanics! |
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03-04-2019, 05:00 PM | #25 | |
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When you hear hoof beats think horses, not zebras. |
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03-04-2019, 05:50 PM | #26 |
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When I got my 2011 M3 last month, saw it still had the original battery from the factory dated Week 42 / 2010 lol first thing I did was replace the battery (Century DIN75LH AGM, cheapest I found at Supercheap Auto other places were $100-$150 more)
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BanjoPaterson160.50 |
03-04-2019, 09:14 PM | #27 | |
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05-20-2019, 11:25 PM | #28 |
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Hey Banjo congrats on the purchase. I'm a newbie in Canberra and in the prowl for one as well. On me if you haven't contacts.
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05-21-2019, 06:56 PM | #29 |
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Hi Banjo - where did you get your rod bearings replace in Canberra?
I just got a M3 e92 and was thinking about getting them done sometime in the future... Thanks Steve |
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05-21-2019, 10:42 PM | #30 |
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Steve. Honestly we are limited on Canberra. Very limited.
I would go to Sydney. If you could stretch Melbourne even better. But brintech in Sydney have done almost all my work and they are more then competent at pulling apart BMW engines. I would love to hear if an ACT shop that could this job at a fair price also. But I m not holding my breath |
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05-22-2019, 12:22 AM | #31 |
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Guys, if I recall correctly, I'm quite sure Banjo had the rod bearings on his previous M3 done by Advanced Tech Automotive in Phillip - I had a conversation with him about it a while back. I'm sure he'll confirm or otherwise as some point. Fortunately mine is at just under 42K kms and I'm confident I don't need the change just yet. Not sure where I would go for that specific job when the time comes.....!
Are you guys in the BMW Car Club Canberra or at least in their Facebook group? They are a reasonably active club. https://bmwclubcanberra.org.au/
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05-22-2019, 02:00 AM | #32 |
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Advanced Tech Automotive I would agree with you for servicing. I have had my e36 there a couple if times. I cant comment on performance work from them or engine internal work. Or pricing of a rod bearing replacement. Interested to hear costs and how it went if it was with ATA.
i'm not on facebook unfortunately. But will look into the club Cheers |
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05-22-2019, 02:02 AM | #33 |
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Fortunately mine is at just under 42K kms and I'm confident I don't need the change just yet. Not sure where I would go for that specific job when the time comes.....!
Are you guys in the BMW Car Club Canberra or at least in their Facebook group? They are a reasonably active club. https://bmwclubcanberra.org.au/[/QUOTE] What year model is yours and what's your servicing protocol? |
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05-22-2019, 10:36 PM | #34 |
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PM sent - sorry for high jack Banjo!
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06-04-2019, 10:15 PM | #35 |
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No worries and thank you! It's been a strangely, stupidly over active month and this is the first time back on the M3 forums in weeks. My apologies for not replying to people (but JJH and I have met and we're both M3-tragics!)
To recap - my previous E92 M3 had its rod bearings changed at Advance Tech Auto. They are very good and I recommend them. They do a number of M3s and know their stuff. For my first E92 M3 I bought BE bearings with OEM bolts which, as you may or may not know, are torque-to-yield and really fiddly; but Advance Tech were on top of that and also plasti-gauged them (1 x before final torque, I presume) to ensure correct clearances. So no need to go to Sydney. This one has VAC bearings with ARP bolts; but I'll change them for BE bearings with the BE-ARP bolts sometime early 2020. It'll be interesting to see how the VAC bearings have done and I intend to post a picture. I know there's controversy with the rod bearings, but I think the number of worn OEM bearings on this forum is shows tolerances were tight. The fellow at Advance Tech who did my bearings opined that the wear on my bearings were probably "from the first crank", and it's interesting that a lot of the wear that I see looks quite similar regardless of kilometres which may lend credence to that theory. Me? I think the slightly looser clearances probably help, but it will be interesting to see the VAC bearings in my "new" M3 when I get them done. |
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06-04-2019, 10:24 PM | #36 | |
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What year model is yours and what's your servicing protocol?[/QUOTE] I'm a club member. Still chuffed that my other car's still on the membership card. I probably should do more club things, but life's been oddly busy the last 6 months. I've a 2010 E92 M3. My servicing 5-10,000km for usual stuff. Plus I've put aside money for:
Some people change the OEM brakes, but I've yet to feel the need. Maybe after a serious track day or something I'll change my mind. I'm thinking of getting the clutch pack changed as a preventative measure using Dodson clutch pack, but it's possible the money's better spent elsewhere. Don't know yet. Plus ceramic paint protection from Diamond Detailing. Did this with my previous M3 and can highly recommend it. I'm not certain how much it protects the paint, but it makes washing the car easier... plus DD do a paint correction before applying the Williams' Ceramic coat. Finally, was wondering if the LSD ever needs changing and how would you know; and if you can't tell then why pay money to change it at all. Mmm. |
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06-05-2019, 10:07 PM | #37 |
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You need to find the time to join in on the Canberra club drives. We've done some great ones these past months: Nowra, Araluen and the Snowys. There's a 'Christmas in June' trip to Bathurst later this month. The July meeting is on detailing.
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06-16-2019, 05:07 AM | #39 |
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Banjo.. You didn't mention the price advance tech charged you for rod bearing replacement. This is crucial when comparing to much more experienced shops in Sydney. Again not knocking ATA so would like to hear there pricing with this and perhaps any other major services you have had done there.
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06-19-2019, 05:18 PM | #40 | |
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Parts I Bought ============ BE Bearings: $590 US =~ $1000 AUD including shipping OEM bolts: 136 US =~ can't find Aussie price in transaction history, but including shipping came to about $250 from memory. BE-ARP bolts are more. Wondered if I should have bought locally from BMW dealer, but if I recall they weren't any cheaper Engine mounts: About £255 or $452 vibra-technic So parts, bought over 24 months (on a novated lease), about $1700. I bought the bearings in 2015 and had them soaking in a plastic container of oil (to prevent rust). Cost of install =========== Labour = $1885 Sump gasket $119 9.5 ltrs Castrol Edge 10W60 $268 Oli filter $39 Bolts $217 (they didn't reuse any from the engine ?!!) "w/s/supplies" (?) $35 I also asked for an oil sensor. I didn't check the price, but thought it would only be about $50-60... nope. $528 Total of install $3085 including oil sensor. Without that and reusing bolts from the engine you could save about $700 so you may end up with $2350 + price of BE bearings + bolts + ? if you want to change engine mounts. So all up $4800; but you could save yourself at least 1000 if you reuse bolts, don't replace oil sensor, and use OEM mounts (about 1/2 cost of vibra-technic mounts). If you do it yourself, you'll save even more. Last edited by BanjoPaterson; 06-19-2019 at 05:24 PM.. |
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06-20-2019, 01:30 AM | #41 |
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Awesome. Seems about the norm going around.
By replacing bolts do you mean rod bolts? I thought the factory rod bolts only allow one life after tension?? |
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06-20-2019, 07:23 PM | #42 |
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Yes - OEM rod bolts are torque-to-yield and are use once whereas the BE-ARP bolts are to-torque and can be re-used. The reason I'm going to buy BE-ARP bolts this time is because it's easier, and a chunk of my prior labour costs came from the fiddly torquing. So what I saved on buying OEM bolts I probably spent on getting the torquing correct (BTW which I happily paid for, as it's a *tiny* additional costs compared to the cost of an incorrect torque!!). However, this time I think the BE-ARP bolts are the way to go.
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06-22-2019, 06:38 PM | #43 |
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I think the be are bolts are by far the better option as well.
Just to throw a spanner in the works, has anyone or does anyone actually know of any AUS e9x series having engine failure due to end bearing issues? |
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06-23-2019, 12:19 AM | #44 |
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Not that I've come across but the fear of losing an entire engine has been around long enough for people to not take a chance. If anything, it'll also help the resale value if it's been done.
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