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02-05-2015, 07:40 PM | #67 | |
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03-05-2015, 02:58 PM | #69 | |
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did you have to spin the sensors? it seems like my rear retrofit sensors have some cone of the signal, if I'm backing up towards the parking stop on the street only one sensor sees it. I wonder if there is a specific way to put them in to have them all picking up all obstacles
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03-06-2015, 09:06 PM | #70 | |
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04-04-2015, 05:43 PM | #72 |
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ok, so this is my find in this DIY....
apparently not everyone's but maybe some sensors have a 3D specific cone of the emitted signal and you have to adjust them when backing up to correctly notice obstacles.. I retrofitted OEM sensors and had to spin them around because at first they were buzzing and showing obstacles where there was nothing in the way.. (at first I thought the sensors were bad) after adjusting all 4 I ended up with perfect setup where it picks up all obstacles correctly!!! Just a thought for those who incurred that issue!! thanks!
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04-21-2015, 09:43 PM | #73 |
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I am planing to do a front/rear PDC installation on my 2008 E90. I have been doing research on part numbers based on this thread. . PDC front / rear Module part number history. I think it should be OK to use any module made during or after your car build date. If you PDC failed today, BMW would replace it with the latest version. Early versions are often out of production. These part numbers are for the front/rear control module. I am aiming to install front/rear PDC but even if I wasn't, I'd still install a F/R module to give the option of upgrading later. Date Range ... Part Number Mar 11 - ... 66 20 9 252 638 Mar 10 – Dec 11 ... 66 20 9 225 824 Sep 07 – May 10 ... 66 20 6 982 403 Dec 06 – Jun 08 ... 66 20 6 982 396 Jun 06 – Oct 07 ... 66 20 6 982 388 I have looked at e-bay units. None are the latest. Many are listed from Lithuania and are so cheap, the source might be dubious. e-bay UK used prices are about the same as new USA prices. The other problem is that swapping a faulty unit or trying to get a refund isn't really practical for me. I am going for new OEM parts. PDC Rear Retrofit Kit Part Numbers are: 66 20 0 399 633 ... for E90 sedan, E91 estate Mar 05 - 66 20 0 418 636 ... for E92 coupe 66 20 0 428 637 ... for E93 convertible Not valid for cars with the aerodynamics package or M sport package SA 337. PDC Front Retrofit Kit Part Number is: 66 20 0 399 629 ... for E90 sedan, E91 estate Mar 05 - Not valid for cars with the aerodynamics package or M sport package SA 337. Sensors I intend to buy from Aliexpress. The latest versions are available for ~$25. Earlier versions ~$16, shipping included. The latest part number appears to be: 66 20 6 956 746 Front Panel Switch Kit Part Number 61 31 9 120 026 My car is RHD so I will post photos of the upgrade. Last edited by dazz100; 04-29-2015 at 05:57 AM.. |
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06-24-2015, 01:01 PM | #75 | |
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PichaDis11 This sounds like a great way to retrofit the Front and Rear PDC to a car with no PDC! |
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07-04-2015, 11:46 AM | #76 | ||
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08-27-2015, 04:16 PM | #77 |
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I am completing a front/rear PDC installation on my 2008 E90. Here are my contributions to this DIY. There is an error in the BMW PDC Retrofit instructions. There are two table showing the pin-out for the connector on the front PDC wiring loom. There is a pin-out on page 22. The colour of the last wire (branch S20) is wrong. Use the table of cable colour codes on page 9. On a RHD car, the cable for the front PDC passes through the firewall on the right side below the brake fluid reservoir. There is a cable grommet there with spare nipples. Cut the end of one of the spare nipples to provide a cable route. Access is very very tight. After routing the cables, fill the nipple with sealant. There are two reasons for doing this. It will stop water getting in. Small holes can let a lot of noise pass through so plugging the nipple will help keep engine noise out. For cars built after 09/2007 the rear PDC loom includes two wires that are not used. (Blue and Blue/Brown). The instructions say to tie these back. One of these unused wires is quite long and would need to be hidden somewhere. I cut the unused wires off where they met the rest of the loom and put heat shrink over the ends. Much tidier and easier to install. |
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08-27-2015, 05:02 PM | #78 |
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Here are some photos of the firewall cable grommet inside and out.
For the rear PDC, it is necessary to release the fuse panel located behind the glove box, left hand side. There are four screws to remove (circled). The upper right one is almost inaccessible. I will need to make a tool to remove it. |
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08-28-2015, 02:54 AM | #79 |
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I managed to get the last screw out from the fuse panel. I had to make a special tool to do the job. It was crude, difficult to use and easy to make. There is absolutely no room to use any sort of ratchet driver so I happened to have a 6BA spanner that is just the right size to fit a 1/4" hex bit holder. The hex bit holder had to be shortened to fit. The metal strip is a slip fit around the bit holder. If you make one of these, you need to follow the dimensions. It can't be too long or too short. The bent metal is very specifically shaped to fit around the obstacles and hold the torx bit in the right place. Once the screws are out, then a wire needs to be plugged into the blue fuse holder in accordance with the BMW instructions. It is necessary to remove the fuses from the holder before it can be removed. There is a tab on the top that needs to be pressed to release the holder. |
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08-30-2015, 03:10 AM | #80 |
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For the most part, the BMW PDC Front/Rear instructions were good to follow. It is what was not included in the instructions that made things difficult. There are four wires that need to be connected in the fuse panel area. The instructions say to insert the Green/White wire into pin 7 of the blue socket X11001. I expected to find an unused pin that the socket on the end of the wire would just slip into. In my case there was already a Green/White wire in that slot so I looked at my options. In the end I chose to splice the Green/White wires. This is what the fuse card in the glove box says is how it should be. It means that the PDC is wired the same as if it was factory fitted. The instructions also say to connect a brown wire to a grounding point X10012. This is supposed to be located in the passengers foot well (for both LHD and RHD). If it is there, it is somewhere behind the carpet and impossible to access. I connected the ground connection to the stud that holds the fuse frame to the firewall. It is located below the fuse panel, in the centre of the foot well, about 25mm below the top edge of the carpet. The top edge of the carpet has to be pulled down to access the 10mm nut. The other two wires connect to the CAN bus. I was lucky enough to find a loop in the loom located in the big thick bundle forward of the fan motor. That gave me some slack wire that allowed me to untwist a section of the CAN bus wires. The BMW kit came with everything I needed except tools. There is a generous amount of wire in the looms so don't worry about anything being too short. The instructions give no clue to the difficulty of working around the fuse panel and were obviously written by someone who has never done the job. Here is a list of things I needed to remove to get access to all the places I needed to work in:
All of these must come off to do the job. The work on the fuse panel was definitely the worst part of this job. That top right screw is a bitch to get at. No standard tool will fit within the space. Custom made tool is the only option. The instructions say to allow 5 hours to do the job. That might be true if you'd done 10 of them before but I reckon you should allow at least 2 full days. It took me a lot longer than that but I was slowed down by the need to look at options when I found something unexpected. The next stage is coding. I am a newbie to coding so it could take a while to finish that part of the job. Last edited by dazz100; 08-30-2015 at 03:24 AM.. |
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08-31-2015, 01:48 AM | #81 |
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Some more notes: I brought the ultrasonic sensors from China (Aliexpress). They look identical to genuine sensors and have "Made in Spain" written on them. They are cheap enough that if they turn out to be lemons, I'll throw them away and buy some used ones. If you are considering doing a PDC upgrade, you might as well do both front and rear. The only difficult part is getting through the firewall. The cable goes back to the controller located in the right rear of the boot. The fuse panel work has to be done regardless of whether you go for front and/or rear PDC. The front bumper skin is easier to remove than the rear. There are plenty of on-line guides. On my car, the locations of the sensors were clearly marked on the inside of the bumper skins front and rear. Before drilling holes, I did make sure that the sensors would fit around the bumpers and other body work. There was plenty of space so not a problem. |
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07-21-2016, 02:25 AM | #83 |
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Hi,
I have full PDC on my car and I retrofited Top View camera also, this is cool feature together with PDC, but. I can activate PDC and camera with pressing PDC button anytime in low speed. DO you know, how can I disable speed limit with possibility to activate PDC macro in any speed? is there some way to code? Thank you.
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11-03-2016, 10:41 AM | #84 | |
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04-20-2017, 10:40 AM | #85 |
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+1 !
Very interested in this also. I know someone who did a complete retrofit of all electronics from an F15 X5M into an an E70 X5M so his old X5 has the new iDrive, cameras, etc. but the cost ended up way beyond sensible. |
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08-28-2017, 11:19 AM | #86 |
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anyone can only tell me how to do the coding? I want to disable it the front pdc.
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10-03-2017, 04:42 PM | #87 |
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do you know if it will work without issues without installing the buttons?
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05-04-2018, 10:22 AM | #88 |
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I've pondered doing this retrofit, and am comfortable with the wiring/electronic components of it. I don't have a lot of experience doing body work, though. How risky/difficult is it to drill the bumper holes properly with respect to getting the right shape and diameter? I'd hate to mess up the bumper.
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do it yourself, euro, front & rear pdc, park distance control, retrofit coding |
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