How difficult to reinstall factory xpipe and mufflers with just ramps ?

[HadesM3]

I had a shop installed testpipes and aftermarket mufflers on my e90 and considering a change back to stock.

I have a spare intact oem xpipe and muffler section I am considering reinstalling myself. Is this possible with just a set of rhino ramps lifting the front and rear wheels? If so, does it require 2 people or can I do it myself?

Thanks

[roastbeef]

For just the rear section, you just need to get the rear wheels up on the ramps. It's easy.

[SAMM3Y]

I used to like using adjustable jack stands to help hold the x pipe up at one end to offer up the header end to keep it square enough for install with the car on ramps. It'll work for the stock muffler too. Very doable by yourself.

[HadesM3]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

For just the rear section, you just need to get the rear wheels up on the ramps. It's easy.

Thanks roastbeef!

Originally Posted by SAMM3Y

I used to like using adjustable jack stands to help hold the x pipe up at one end to offer up the header end to keep it square enough for install with the car on ramps. It'll work for the stock muffler too. Very doable by yourself.

Thanks Samm3y!



Any idea how long it will take to do assuming I don't have too much difficulty removing the O2 sensors?

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by HadesM3

Thanks roastbeef!




Thanks Samm3y!



Any idea how long it will take to do assuming I don't have too much difficulty removing the O2 sensors?

oh, i misread your original post. for the test pipes, you'll need the front off the ground as well. its a pain in the ass on jackstands. i gladly pay my mechanic with a lift the $100 for the swap.

[SAMM3Y]

I got pretty good at doing it there for a while and could switch out a system in about 1:15. So plan double for that for your first time depending on how long it would take to get the car In the air. You'll need 13 mm for most the bolts for the exhaust system, I believe the header bolts are 14mm then 10mm for the front test pipe mounts. You'll need to drop the tranny felt with 10/8mm. You can remove the belly pan to make the header bolts easier which are 16mm. Unplug all the o2 sensors prior to dropping the x pipe and I'd take the negative terminal off the battery too for extra safe measures ( learned an expensive lesson once on something different and when in doubt unplug the battery)

The factory x pipe is one piece and is quite heavy so save the x brace for last but support it as you un do it so you don't stress the threads, get the car to a good height where you can use your whole body, back on the ground elbows/arms up at 90 for me. Then when doing it in reverse use jack stands to prop up the rear part of the x pipe to manipulate and offer up the header section. I always put a little anti seize high temp copper paste on the o2 sensor threads to make the next time a little easier. gl!

Also having new donuts for the header connection isn't a bad idea depending on the age/condition of the existing. The gaskets are about $20 and can save you a second attempt at sealing them.

Torque specs : tight enough is my motto on anything that isn't mechanical you can always snook something up a little but the opposite is impossible.

Also a cheap pair of exhaust hanger pliers on Amazon are about $15. Can save some cussing with a little Dawn soap for the muffler rubbers

[BayE30]

i have swapped mine back and forth from stock to aftermarket solo with the car up on 4 jackstands several times. you will learn to use your arms AND legs at the same time while laying on your back.

[pbonsalb]

I have done it a few times with the car on jack stands when my lift was in use. It will take you twice as long the first time as the 2nd time. Nothing particularly challenging.

I would change the cone shaped gaskets at the header connection. You can reuse them a number of times but if yours are original replacing them is probably a good idea.

Having a block or jack stand to help support the rear of the midpipe can help, though typically the socket ball connection holds it in place until you push the rear exhaust back a little.

Be careful with the 02. Resist the urge to twist them loose. Disconnect them instead and remove them once the pipe is on the ground.

For the front header connector bolts, I use a 10mm flex head wrench on the bolt head on the back. It fits the torx head well enough to hold without stripping while you loosen the 14mm nut. And it easily fits with the head bent at 90.

If you change the rear exhaust, the hard rubber mountings are a pain to work with when removing the exhaust. There is a lisle tool that helps but you can do it without the tool. Just be patient and keep at it.

Have fun, save money, earn satisfaction. Go DIYers!

[Scharbag]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

For the front header connector bolts, I use a 10mm flex head wrench on the bolt head on the back. It fits the torx head well enough to hold without stripping while you loosen the 14mm nut. And it easily fits with the head bent at 90.

If you change the rear exhaust, the hard rubber mountings are a pain to work with when removing the exhaust. There is a lisle tool that helps but you can do it without the tool. Just be patient and keep at it.

Have fun, save money, earn satisfaction. Go DIYers!

I reverse the nut an bolt on the header connection. So much easier to get a socket/wrench on the nut on the back and hit the E-Torx head on. I also make sure I hit the threads with some WD-40 as the copper nut seems to enjoy being a real prick if you don't. I replace both if there is any damage or if they look "bad".

As for the rubber hangers, use lube. WD-40 really helps them slide on and off the hanger points. All I have needed is a large flat head prybar (some would call it a screw driver...).

As for jack stands, easy peasy but you will need to involve your legs. You will see what we mean. Just make sure you lift it high enough to get under the x-pipe with enough room to drop the x-pipe onto your body and still clear the chassis. 3t jack stands to the top work just fine for me and I, well, could use to lose a few...

Cheers,

[pbonsalb]

I am still on my original header to midpipe bolts and nuts at 108k and have had the pipe on and off a dozen times.

I will try the WD40 trick next time on the muffler hangers. Maybe they did not want to move because they were stuck. Had the muffler off only once, about 5 years ago, when I changed to a Megan. I might go back to stock. I love the snarl of the Megan but it is a little loud. My wife pretty much refuses to drive the car.

[Scharbag]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

I am still on my original header to midpipe bolts and nuts at 108k and have had the pipe on and off a dozen times.

I will try the WD40 trick next time on the muffler hangers. Maybe they did not want to move because they were stuck. Had the muffler off only once, about 5 years ago, when I changed to a Megan. I might go back to stock. I love the snarl of the Megan but it is a little loud. My wife pretty much refuses to drive the car.

I have re-used mine a few times. FCP FTW!! Now that I reverse the nut and bolt, way less risk of messing up the TORX head. And I think a 3/8" flexible ratcheting wrench fits better than a 10mm IIRC.

And it is such a fine balance. I have Dinan cans and have tried a few different X-Pipes. Stock X-Pipe is too quiet with Dinan. AA and Chalenge is just a touch too loud and raspy (especially when cold) with Dinan. I just went back to test pipes. Seems like a good compromise for now.

My wife has only driven my M3 twice...

[Ajolives]

I'd also suggest to unbolt the rubber hangers versus sliding them off. I think 18mm on the forward ones and 12mm on the muffler hanger bolts (could be off a size or two); I've always found that faster/easier.

[HadesM3]

Thanks guys for all the detailed explanations!

I think I will tackle the xpipe first and remove the testpipes and reinstall the oem xpipe.


I almost forgot I need to reinstall the oem computer flash. Is that easy or difficult? The shop who originally installed the exhaust flashed the ecu with the testpipe program and gave me copies of the files.


Now I have to work up the courage and start the process!

[Fooksdaddy]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

oh, i misread your original post. for the test pipes, you'll need the front off the ground as well. its a pain in the ass on jackstands. i gladly pay my mechanic with a lift the $100 for the swap.

This, I just did this the other day on ramps and wanted to fight everything within 10 feet of me afterwards!!!

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by Fooksdaddy

This, I just did this the other day on ramps and wanted to fight everything within 10 feet of me afterwards!!!

i'm 33 now, so doing work under the car now feels like getting beat up a little bit. lol

[HadesM3]

For those who installed testpipes yourself, how difficult is reflashing the ECU? My car has a tune that was installed by mechanic at the same time.

I have since moved and would do it myself with the oem file and obd2 cable I was given. I believe I have to use a Windows based PC.

Thanks again!

[pbonsalb]

Flashing a tune or flashing back to stock is not hard assuming you have the cable, tuned and flashing software. It takes just a few minutes. Just follow the instructions that go with the cable and flashing software. If you don’t have them, contact the tuner. That part is generic so the tuner should be willing to send you links to them.

[pbonsalb]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

i'm 33 now, so doing work under the car now feels like getting beat up a little bit. lol

I am 55 and can do this without any problem though I certainly prefer to use my lift. I definitely don’t mive under the car and back out and back under like I did when I was 33 though.

[Scharbag]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

I am 55 and can do this without any problem though I certainly prefer to use my lift. I definitely don’t mive under the car and back out and back under like I did when I was 33 though.

At 43, I am much more careful to make sure I grab all the tools I need before I dive under the car...

[HadesM3]

Thanks again for all the input!

I decided to only reinstall the factory x-pipe and catalytic convertors and keep the aftermarket mufflers on.

I re-read all the posts and it appears no specialized tools are required. I did have a couple of questions. if these items are needed to make my install easier.

1. Should I buy a set of Torx sockets?

2. Are the donut gaskets at the cat/header connection recommended for a car w/ 60k miles? I am guessing the only time this section was undone was when the test pipes were originally installed.

3. Are exhaust hanger pliers needed if I am not removing my mufflers? Or do the mufflers need to be removed temporarily to remove and replace the x-pipe?

[DanMpower]

Originally Posted by Scharbag

At 43, I am much more careful to make sure I grab all the tools I need before I dive under the car...

I remember my early 20s I would be able to pull all-nighters, doing engine swaps, building motors sometimes 20 hours straight without skipping a beat.

40 and overweight now... 4 hours in and I'm ready for the stretcher.

[DanMpower]

Originally Posted by HadesM3

Thanks again for all the input!

I decided to only reinstall the factory x-pipe and catalytic convertors and keep the aftermarket mufflers on.

I re-read all the posts and it appears no specialized tools are required. I did have a couple of questions. if these items are needed to make my install easier.

1. Should I buy a set of Torx sockets?

2. Are the donut gaskets at the cat/header connection recommended for a car w/ 60k miles? I am guessing the only time this section was undone was when the test pipes were originally installed.

3. Are exhaust hanger pliers needed if I am not removing my mufflers? Or do the mufflers need to be removed temporarily to remove and replace the x-pipe?

• 1. Yes, invest in a set of Torx sockets. You will need them to remove the Torx bolts at the X-pipe/Header connection.
  
• 2. Yes, replace the donut gasket. Worst case scenario is you get a bad leak at that connection and the car will start doing bat shit crazy things...
  
• 3. If you're not touching the muffler, no need for exhaust hanger pliers, the X-Pipe doesn't have any hangers on it.