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      09-29-2020, 01:19 PM   #1
FrozenE92M3
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Is there supposed to be thread showing on the swaybar bolts?

I have been chasing a squeak and clunk in the rear passenger side of my 2013 Coupe M3. I was checking the rear swaybar bushing with a flashlight today and noticed the bolts that hold the bushing bracket down aren't screwed all the way in. Or are they? Here are some pictures, let me know what you guys think.
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      09-29-2020, 06:29 PM   #2
djsilverjohnson
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They appear to me to be loose. If they didn't want the brackets screwed down all the way they should come with spacers. None show up in the parts diagram;

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=33_1411

The repair instruction diagram is a drawing and not a picture, but it doesn't show any spacers or any evidence of the gaps in your pictures.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ll-bar/PWLkSEm
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      09-29-2020, 06:34 PM   #3
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They should be screwed all the way in with no gap.
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      09-29-2020, 07:44 PM   #4
FrozenE92M3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M43S7RO View Post
They should be screwed all the way in with no gap.
Thanks, yeah I will have to tighten them down. it's just so tight. I know you have to drop the subframe a couple inches to change those swaybar bushings. could I do this without doing that? what tool would I use?
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      09-29-2020, 09:58 PM   #5
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I would first try with a low profile wrenches such as these before lowering the subframe, looks like an M8x20 hex bolt according to realoem:

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Profile...ile+all&sr=8-5

Last edited by M43S7RO; 09-29-2020 at 10:09 PM..
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      09-29-2020, 10:18 PM   #6
FrozenE92M3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M43S7RO View Post
I would first try with a low profile wrenches such as these before lowering the subframe, looks like an M8x20 hex bolt according to realoem:

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Profile...all&sr=8-5
Thank you so much, these are the tools I was looking for! I was about to take a hacksaw to an allen wrench to DIY a low profile one haha.
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      09-29-2020, 10:28 PM   #7
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Be sure to get at least an M8, dont think any of the ones in that link are. Just linked as example.


Quote:
Originally Posted by FrozenE92M3 View Post
Thank you so much, these are the tools I was looking for! I was about to take a hacksaw to an allen wrench to DIY a low profile one haha.
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      09-29-2020, 11:40 PM   #8
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it appears the torque value is 33 55 1AZ = 21nm = 15.48ft lbs.
Seems low enough those low profile tools above would probably work for you. That's a good catch.
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      09-30-2020, 12:56 AM   #9
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If you pull the rear wheels and get the car up on jack stands/quick jacks get a jack under the diff and loosen the subframe bolts to lower the assembly a couple of inches you'll be able to snook those bolts up pretty easily.
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      09-30-2020, 09:30 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M43S7RO View Post
Be sure to get at least an M8, dont think any of the ones in that link are. Just linked as example.


Quote:
Originally Posted by FrozenE92M3 View Post
Thank you so much, these are the tools I was looking for! I was about to take a hacksaw to an allen wrench to DIY a low profile one haha.
Holy shit, I actually did it. I didn't have two jackstands handy so I had to live will only lowering the subframe the amount the bolts would allow it.

I took a 6mm allen and cut it to the point of the being only about a centimeter left at the bend. It was tight as hell and my hands are all scratched and bruised but it was worth it.

It is amazing just how much noise that swaybar generated from those bolts being only 2mm loose. It sounded like the shock was completely blown. I have been chasing this noise for months and only caught this yesterday when I was cleaning my wheels. So happy.
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      10-01-2020, 05:04 AM   #11
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kinda hoping here that you didnt mess up the threads because those bolts should not be described as hard to turn
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      10-01-2020, 06:33 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amrazM View Post
kinda hoping here that you didnt mess up the threads because those bolts should not be described as hard to turn
I meant it was tight as in tight space. Positioning the Allen key in the bolt was difficult and I could only turn 1/6th of a turn before running out of turning radius. The bolts themselves were "normal" difficulty to turn, and tightened down fine.
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      10-01-2020, 06:54 AM   #13
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Nice find. How long was the clunk present?
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      10-01-2020, 07:07 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bvrider1 View Post
Nice find. How long was the clunk present?
About 4 months. Before that it was fine. The swaybar is stock and so are the bushings. I don't think the previous owner touched it. Is it possible the Ze Germans forgot to tighten it from factory and they backed out? Who knows, I'm just glad I found it and that they didn't snap.
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