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02-29-2024, 07:56 PM | #1 |
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Rear Toe Arms: Jam nuts vs clamps?
Hi,
I'm currently in the process of replacing subframe bushings, along with RTAB's. I'll eventually replace the rear toe arms and upper control arms. I see that some offerings use a jam nut or a small clamp to hold the adjustment. I'm not an engineer, but it appears the clamp can only work if the metal is thin enough (or slotted) for the clamp to compress. The jam nut doesn't compromise the thickness of the tube. It appears most of the mfgrs have moved to a clamping system: SPL Rogue AKG still uses a jam nut, Turner offers both. Which is better? Or does it matter? For comparison, here is Turner's offering: Clamps https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-5...-links-e9x-m3/ Jam Nuts https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-5...inks/?pdk=AAEE Last edited by sperkins; 02-29-2024 at 10:44 PM.. Reason: Error |
03-03-2024, 04:14 PM | #2 |
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I am sure other people know better than myself but the *lock style* are good enough for tie rods from the factory so they are probably good enough for me.
I have read on here of some SPL parts failing but I think it was maybe a hardware issue and not necessarily a design issue. Edit* mistyped jam nut |
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03-05-2024, 02:33 PM | #3 |
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i personally would chose the jam nuts..
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03-05-2024, 03:26 PM | #4 | |
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Quote:
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03-05-2024, 05:31 PM | #5 |
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My friend uses clamp-style Turner arms and complains about difficulty holding alignment. He got so annoyed he's considering going back to stock arms. So definitely jam nuts.
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03-08-2024, 01:39 PM | #6 |
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Really either style will work when installed correctly, but I'm surprised at the jam nut opinions! I like the clamp style, which is why I went with the SPL Parts toe links. Jam nut options are definitely less expensive.
The issue I DONT like with the jam nut style is you have a jam nut with coarse threads on each end of a threaded rod. Getting your toe set is very finicky and touchy already so trying to tighten two coarse thread jam nuts down while holding the threaded rod precisely in place is difficult and annoying. And especially if you are trying to torque to spec using a crows foot socket and torque wrench. The stock alignment eccentric cam bolts have the same annoyance when trying to keep them exactly in one place while torqueing the nut (wish they had finer threads). I will say, the clamp locking style needs SIGNIFICANTLY more tightening torque than you think it does before it keeps the alignment specs. When I initially installed my SPL toe links, I tightened the clamp's Allen head screws down as tight as I felt comfortable because they are such a small little screw. You feel like you will easily break the screw or strip the clamp ring threads. But even with me tightening what I thought was plenty, sure enough the rear toe walked out on the drive to the alignment rack and I had -2 degrees of toe out on the RR corner . After looking at the SPL torque sheet, they asked for over 12 ft-lb (150 in•lb) of torque for those tiny little screws! You have to use a ratchet and 3/16" hex socket to get even close to that torque; an Allen wrench of any length isn't strong enough. I was amazed how much torque they could hold. It's been two years, with several track days and autocrosses and my rear toe has not moved whatsover each time I align the car before an event.
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