So as far as making the new rack line up the same way as the old rack, the procedure in the link below should help:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...rement/GTebPnF
I would take notes and picture before you break those outer tie rods...before you even move them off the inner tie rods.
I used a lever (pry bar/large screwdriver) stuck in between the column and the rack to both separate and move it back in. It's a beefy part so I wouldn't worry about breaking it.
One snag I just thought of, is there is no easy way to place the spline guide back onto the new rack from the old rack as the new one doesn't come with it. I'm talking about the black plastic thing.
So I guess I would do it like this:
1. Lock the steering wheel at dead center with bungy cord or something
2. Remove the steering rack assembly being careful not to turn the wheel at all or the steering rack after it has been removed.
3. Take your measurements like in the hyperlink, again not turning the steering rack at the column connection point at all (like you were turning the steering wheel if that makes sense).
4. Make as precise measurement as possible as to where the orientation of the black plastic spline guide thingy is on the old rack.
5. This is the point of no return so measure and remeasure everything: Turn the old rack all the way to the right and all the way to the left taking note of EXACTLY how many turns you turn in each direction to the stop.
6. Now turn the new one with pliers so that you can place it exactly in the orientation into dead center like on the old one.
7. Now you can move the plastic spline guide thingy and the two outer tie rods over to the new one matching the measurement you took on the old one. Don't worry so much about the orientation...worry about the measurement. those outer tie rods can bend a bit once into the hub...it's the measurement that's the important part.
8. Install the solenoid
9. Reinstall the new one being careful again to not change the orientation the steering column. No need to worry about the outer tie rods because they should be cranked down and bolted.
I think that's it for that part? It's the most stress inducing, and I can assure you that no matter how precise you are you will need an alignment.