Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef
what are your front camber settings? i have the same track wheels as you and may want to try 295's up front. any rubbing on the plastic fender liner? i know those JRZ's are helping you some with clearance as well...
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I use Vorshlag camber plates. They allow me to push the top of the damper all the way to the inside of that hole. So, I'm just going for max camber there. It turns out to be about -3.8º, but for me, the number is arbitrary. I'm just going for as much as possible. I've found that more camber saves the outside edge of the tires. Otherwise, those edges get trashed immediately and the tires are ruined very quickly. I've considered making the hole wider so that I can get even more camber, but at some point braking performance will degrade as you get to extreme camber settings, so I haven't done it. Max camber given the strut top hole seems to give me good braking power, good turn in, and keeps the tire's edge alive enough that if I'm good about rotating wheels around, the edges last long enough. After enough heat cycles, the TD's just don't grip very well and I'm ready to get back to a fresher tire. I got to that point this weekend at Chuckwalla. The old tires still had a few sessions left tread-wise, but grip-wise they were quite far off their prime. When I switched to new tires, the new ones were over 3 seconds faster.
The 295's do rub the plastic fender liner a bit. It's not too bad but after a while it does wear through it. I believe the height the car is set at does affect this as well.
295 is not possible on a stock damper as far as I know---at least not with my 10.5" rims. As I recall, the stock damper's lower spring perch gets in the way, and if you put too big of a spacer, then you start having issues with the tire's outside edge and the fender because the tire is so wide. Camber can assist on the outside to help it tuck, but does nothing to help the issues of the inside edge. Perhaps a 10" rim is different; I don't know. I've never owned a 10" rim.