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Originally Posted by ANLV
I understand. I guess if something works don't change it.
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well, i often changed diffs that did work... and i was able to further improve some of them. but if i tend to think there is no chance to make a certain product better then other units that i already built i stop wasting time and money on them!
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Originally Posted by ANLV
I know one company in the Netherlands which works with OS-Giken units - they are differential specialists and custom set up the units for racing, but its a lot of work to learn a new mechanism and set it up properly etc.
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they are friends of me and i discussed with them a lot. they made other experience with the osg indeed. it is absolutely ok for me if someone has a different experience or opinion about a certain product.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ANLV
... and custom set up the units for racing, but its a lot of work to learn a new mechanism and set it up properly etc.
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well, this requires the availability of the required parts (ramp sets). osg did offer me 2 (in words: two) for the m3 diff. i have +30 different ramps plus various clutch options for the drexler/zf stuff.
one of the reasons i quit researching the osg stuff... not enough setup parts / options available to build real custom setups!
Quote:
Originally Posted by ANLV
My view of the OS-Giken is - it could be good for drifting in the dry if setup correctly and good if you have a squarer line on track (think of MAX or Vettel's driving style compared to Sainz for example in F1). I need to be really aggressive on the brakes for the diff to lockup on deceleration and wrestle the front end in the corner and I need to straighten up as quick as possible and get aggressively on the gas for it to grip out of corners, which causes oversteer on the way out - as when it locks - it LOCKS up too quick. Once you get used to it and manage that oversteer right after the apex - you know what it will do and when, and you can just keep a much tighter racing line with later braking, lower turn-in speeds, hard accel out of the bend and less ability to crash I guess. On the Out-In-Out standard racing line it just feels like an open diff on decel and has sudden locks mid-corner on tight bends. It is good on long swooping bends though - as it just doesn't lock up much if any and I don't get understeer. Its hard to get used to in the rain though. It will stay open when decelerating and then lock to 100% out of nowhere when weight transfers mid corner and I just would spin on throttle. I need to again pull off a MAX Verstappen in Brazil type of driving, where I just run as square of a line as possible so that I almost don't trail-brake, but I brake in a straight line, lift off before the apex and turning, and when I accelerate my wheels are always going forward, and then - it is good - it just puts the power down well as it locks so quick. I think it just is a 0 or a 100% diff kind of. It locks up probably 30-40% quicker than normal clutch type diffs with a preload shim instead of the springs. It does create less heat that way and if you change your driving style - it works, but if you don't like the square racing line and you don't like to straighten your line after the apex, mash the gas, force it to lock-up and then manage the oversteer on corner exit - it might not be the best option. If you like that - then it is okey. Maybe lower ramp angle on acceleration and softer neg-preload springs, so that I don't need to force it to lock-up, but once it does I can manage it by it locking up at a slower rate due to the ramp angle. In the rain it can put you in hard situations where it behaves like an open diff on decal and locks up on rotation and if you get on the gas too hard and the inside tire slips, you are still steering, lock up mid corner - you run out of steering lock in the opposite direction and spin. Maybe the 2 way Spec-S is the way to go, not the 1.5 Way so it locks up more while actually stopping. I don't know.
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i prefer to adapt the lsd to what the drivers wants instead of tell the customer how he has to drive to fit the lsd's requirements.
plus: a square driving style is surely not what a s65 requires to go fast. with the known lack of torque you need to drive it really smooth and careful.
i have a shifter kart and a rotax. the s65 is the rotax ;-)
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Originally Posted by ANLV
I know its maybe a lot to ask, but is there a trusted place you know which can build me some custom LSD friction plates with molybdenum coating in Europe? I want to try out a few things with the OEM Viscolock unit and the OS-Giken I have too.
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sure there is! what budget do you want to spend?
if you want molys from a "trusted place" (=supplier of drexler, ricardo, gkn, ...) you will need to spend a bit of money.
there are also cheap manufacturers... but this is a waste of money.
i have brandnew moly viscolok clutches available in stock. i'd be happy to sell them to someone.
why do you want to put molys in a osg? if you do a zf/drexler replica for even more money then the original ones... what would be the benefit? i am sure if you rebuild a osg unit to drexler spec concercing ramps and clutchmaterial it will perform like a drexler (as long as no other parts will fail). but this can be had easier!
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Originally Posted by ANLV
Also is there somewhere where I can buy the stock ZF unit new, or is it just breakdowns of old M5's which were crashed for example. I like to tinker with stuff in my free time  then break my car on track and start all over again... its a money-pit hobby I guess. |
sure, i have some brandnew ZF units in stock.
i bought the final ZF LSD parts stock (~60k pieces) last year.
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Originally Posted by ANLV
If I manage to modify the OSG to a place where it works well I will update the thread. I will get a conventional LSD too for comparison and tinker with that too.
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go ahead!
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Originally Posted by ANLV
There is so hard to make a compromise between rebuild intervals, locking operation and locking potential. Conventional diffs with a preload shim start to slip within 25k km sometimes. OSG and CUSCO's with springs and lower preloads on the other hand behave differently and can catch you out unprepared. There is no Win/Win/Win  |
well, imho there is a win/win/win: drexler with a setup that will fit the drivers and cars requirements. it will definitely not start to slip at 25k km... but will perform +100k km on a very high level! and as a lower budget alternative: ZF based lsd core with drexler clutches. this will also work for way beyond 25k km.
osg & cusco are not on the same level to a drexler by far. these are totally different products. both not used in OEM or professional (factory) motorsports applications... for good reasons.