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      11-21-2019, 12:28 PM   #59
WingZeroX5's Avatar

Drives: F80 / F30
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: New Hampshire

iTrader: (14)

Originally Posted by Rajmun340 View Post
The way they may be damaging the alternator is if they are following some bmw test procedure included in the recall instructions that tries to evaluate cable electrical integrity from alternator to battery B+ by connecting that cable to some test load equipment that temporarily overloads the alternator with engine running. A corroded cable will show increased ohmic drop at high current load. The test could overstress the alternator if some tech is not meticulously following test max load/duration specifications.
It might not be exactly on those lines but somebody is breaking these alternators.
What...? There is no such test. ISTA tests the alternator by applying varying loads and can check the IBS system as well. If you're applying a load on the alternator and it's causing a voltage spike outside of normal parameters, the voltage regulator needs to be replaced. Or just replace the whole thing.

Seriously some of you are freaking out over nothing. It's simply cutting the cable, splicing/crimping, heatshrink, and plug it back into the fuse box. You don't remove any fuses, relays, just unplug a few connections to make room. If you don't want the dealership to do it, then DIY like I did.

The failure point is at the connection of the fuse box and the B+ cable. This affecting the alternator is coincidence. Mine started to go at 160K miles when I got random electrical problems. Tested the alternator and it was pumping out 15.7-16V intermittently. So obviously, being an original alternator, it was time to replace it.

My first oh FCUK moment was at night on CT15 North near I91 when the car suddenly flickered and lost power for a split second. Good thing it was late and I was the only one on the road.
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