Quote:
Originally Posted by omgzirra_exe
that doesn't make sense, the lowest AGM i was able to code when i had an H6-40 battery was 40AH AGM via protools.
which would be the lowest AGM setting possible for me via protools.
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This whole process makes no sense, which is why this whole battery recoding and registering thing is way harder than it should be. The inconsistency with Carly, NCSExpert, ISTA+, ProTools, etc is not confidence-inspiring
Recoding the battery to a different size and type is divided into two categories: Lead-Acid and AGM. The car's Vehicle Order (VO) must be reprogrammed that tells the car what battery it has installed. The available VO coding options understood by the car's modules only allow you to go from Lead Acid 90 Ah down to 46 Ah or the AGM options are 70, 80, and 90 Ah. The car cannot be coded by adding a made-up "-A040" code to the VO and writing the VO to the CAS and FRM/NFRM modules because that line of code simply does not exist. You are forced with choosing the "-A070" for the 70 Ah AGM option.
"B" represents wet-cell (lead acid), while "A" represents AGM (glass mat) in the VO.
E B046 BATT_46AH //46 Ah-Batterie
E B055 BATT_55AH //55 Ah-Batterie
E B070 BATT_70AH //70 Ah-Batterie
E B080 BATT_80AH //80 Ah-Batterie
E B090 BATT_90AH //90 Ah-Batterie
E A070 BATT_AGM_70AH //70 Ah-AGM Batterie
E A080 BATT_AGM_80AH //80 Ah-AGM Batterie
E A090 BATT_AGM_90AH //90 Ah-AGM Batterie
The ultimate goal is to make sure you are using the lowest AGM Ah setting you can that still registers correctly in ISTA when you go to register the battery.
I've attached a link below to the bible of this topic. Option #5 shows how to do it correctly using NCSExpert and not a more "basic, user friendly" software like Carly or ProTools. That gives you the most ground level understanding of what is happening behind the scenes when using ProTools or Carly.
https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1338304