Quote:
Originally Posted by F32
Spoken like someone who doesn't have a clue.
A stock aluminum LS-motor with accessories comes is only 27 lbs. heavier than a 13B-REW with turbos, IC, and all accessories. Most LS-swapped FDs end up around 2700-2800 lbs. with a full interior and 50/50 distribution, in line with a bone stock example. Many also remove AC, PS, ABS, etc., and more weight can shed easily. It's very easy to get a street-driveable weekend track-car in the 2600s. Here are the corner weights of one's full-interior, caged FD with a full tank of gas and him sitting in it...
More nonsense. There goes your original point, too, since a 20B plus a turbo is significantly heavier than a 13B or an LS.
Anyone who tells you how reliable an RX-7 can be after "reliability mods" is either delusional or lying to your face. I know this because I have owned one. I bought a pristine 94 FD with 56K miles as a weekend car in 2005. I did everything you could imagine in terms of "reliability" and "cooling" mods. I have money, and I didn't skimp on anything. It was a complete nightmare. The FD RX-7, while among one of my favorite cars ever made and in history as one of the greatest sports cars ever made, is a complete and utter piece of shit. Unless you swap a V8 in it...
Not only are LS-swapped RX-7s worlds more reliable and simple, the motors themselves are bombproof. Options are also endless...you can go with a stock LS1 which you can buy for pennies and have a wonderful and amazingly fun 300RWHP 2700 lb. sports car, or go all out and build a 600+ RWHP all-motor LS7 and have a complete monster.
Approved. |
What he said. Although I like the LS3 motor a little better than the LS1. Identical weight, but 25% more hp. 400hp w/o any mods.
I've seen this same motor in a Miata and it flat out demolished everything at the track.