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      04-03-2012, 04:13 PM   #9
aka_phox
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Drives: 2011 M3 Convertilble
Join Date: Jun 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3PO View Post
I would take these numbers with a grain of salt. There's just too many issues with this dyno session. Why is the dash lit up like a Christmas tree? Why'd it over heat? What gear was he in? The RPM issue. Etc.

I was wrong. Your car only made 300 WHP which is 364 BHP (roughly). He didn't quite make it to peak power but it shouldn't be ~60 WHP low.
Quote:
Originally Posted by meyergru View Post
Yes, see here - and I've even seen larger cooling systems. Preferably, they provide air from the outside. Many tuners' dynos are rubbish.

Cooling is the critical factor for measuring a car's power. You would have to reach an airflow of about 120mph in order to simulate the car operating on the street. With our M3, the air intake is through the vent on driver side of the hood which normally separates the hot engine bay from the cold outside air. With the hood open an inadequate cooling, the engine sucks in hot air from the engine bay, much like with so-called "cold" air intakes. It would be better to use an air duct for the intake with a stationary car (like this).



I meant "get your money back for the measurement", not neccessarily for the tune. As I said, the numbers were meaningless considering all that went wrong. All you can say is that probably your engine did <insert power number here> at 7500 RPM at which point it shut off.

What should be the power output at 7500 RPM? This way i can kinda see how much it was off if any. Or could it be safe to say that it was accurate up until 7500 RPM?
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