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      08-13-2019, 02:32 PM   #13
SYT_Shadow
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Drives: E90M/E92M/M4GTS/M4GT4/X5M
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Greenwich, CT

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Quote:
Originally Posted by SonnyJack View Post
Laughing reading this. Not haha laughing, rather "I'm a dumbass" laughing. I ran four laps this morning, underpowered, and as if on cue, noticed I was smoking. Needless to say I'm on the trailer and about to head home. This event was way underrepresented and should have been a great time. Unfortunately, my procrastination in putting on the catless x-pipe has bit me in the ass. At least that's what it seems like.

I have the ESS x-pipe. You had this one as well if I'm not mistaken. I don't have near the number of track days you've had but I've been SC'd and generating massive heat for almost three years.

Appreciate you taking the time to post.
I'm sorry to hear that. Even with fewer track days your car outputs way more heat than mine, so it may be that.
It's easy to inspect: remove the xpipe and shine a flashlight into the cats.

Yes, I also had an ESS HFC Xpipe. It's nice that it keeps the primary cat position but for heavy track use (or supercharged track use which is the same thing) it seems to have an issue.

Some people will climb onto a high horse and talk about how brand X cats don't melt and blahblahblah. However if you look at xpipes that run the HJC or whatever cats which are supposed to be the best they have a 1 or 2 year warranty. My ESS HFC Xpipe took 3 years of double-tracking before failing, so I don't blame it.

Now I run the Bimmerworld resonated Xpipe and got Magnaflow metallic cats welded in after the X. This keeps them cooler than in the primary position and also allows the exhaust from both banks to exit through a single pipe if needed.

If you are smoking then you've blown the valve stem seals of the bank affected by the -assumed- melted cat. Step 1 would be to check the cat.
If one or both cats are melted then here is what I'd do after all my ordeals:
-Get a shop which can work on these cars. Something reputable. Deansbimmer, jcolley, IMGMotorsport, etc.
-Have them pull the engine and replace the valve stem seals
-It's up to you whether you get the mains inspected/replaced or not. I did not and my engine failed soon after I put it back in. Needless to say I would NOT do that again
-You may also want to get the rod bearings replaced

I ran my engine thousands of miles with the failed cat after mechanic after mechanic inspected it and replaced parts left right and center but did not diagnose the issue. It felt horrible but every one of them agreed that 'it would get better' and other BS.
Before the engine blew I had spent 10k chasing the issue. At least you have the opportunity to learn from my mistakes, this was an incredibly painful experience.
It's possible if today was the first time the engine seemed 'off' you can get away with just replacing the valve stem seals. That is up to you.
The 3 mechanics that misdiagnosed the car were all BMW specialists. That is why I recommended the 3 shops earlier. There are lots of 'specialists' but few people know the S65 well. I will not make the same mistake again

By the way a welder can turn the ESS HFC Xpipe into a catless resonated Xpipe very easily, just replacing the failed cats with pipe. This may allow you to sell your unused catless one to recoup some of the costs of this ordeal.


Our car died at the Glen. It was so down on power but with R1's we ran a personal best in the car chasing down a 991 GT3 RS. It was a worthy sendoff for the S65, but it's still a shame it happened. It could have easily been prevented.


Best of luck and don't hesitate to PM to discuss in more detail.

Last edited by SYT_Shadow; 08-13-2019 at 02:37 PM..
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