Quote:
Originally Posted by Scharbag
Quote:
Originally Posted by GearKid
So I've been to the shop and have an update. The #8 rod is definitely stripped. The tech confirmed the use of the original OEM bolt was retorqued using the specified 6nm to 20nm and then 130degrees. While all the other bolts went up to final torque apparently this one didn't get past the 20nm point. That's the story.
I'm not giving any credibility to the rod journal measurement since it doesn't seem like there's a reliable way to do this with the crank in the motor.
It seems pretty evident that the engine needs to be pulled. At that point it's either a rebuild or a replacement.
The shop was not about to admit guilt and I respect that. Theories as to the rod threads being buggered as a pre-existing condition were weak at best. The best theory put forth was excessive heat due to oil starvation from lack of regular oil changes. I'm not sure how much heat would be needed to compromise the threads however. The #7 bearing was the most severely worn and that rod was fine. Pics of the original bearings are attached. There's very fine pitting that was hard to notice close up. This was the evidence for the poor maintenance upkeep.
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If the rod bearing did not spin, and that seems to not be the case here, then there is no chance of "heat damage" to the rod.
Maintenance and upkeep has very little to do with how your bearings look.
I would get another opinion from a professional before allowing the shop off the hook.
Keep us up to date.
Cheers, |
Here is my #7 rod bearing at 65,253 miles.
This car was meticulously maintained its entire life.
There were zero indications that anything was wrong with my car before I changed bearings, even the Blackstone report was clean as a whistle.
Zero issues with my BE Bearing installation.
The extra heat theory reeks like sweaty ass, to me.
I seriously doubt that your rod was damaged prior, because I would imagine it would have windowed your block.