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BenFenner Since you have a ton data on your sheet. I probably would include this information as well. And this good information for the rest of us reading this.
Another observation worth mentioning based on the two videos I posted in my previous post, is how clean the hard-anodized billet covers remain internally compared with both the factory magnesium covers and raw cast-aluminum alternatives. OEM covers commonly show significant oil staining, varnish, and residue buildup, partly because their internal coating deteriorates and becomes rough after years of heat cycling. That uneven surface gives deposits more places to adhere and collect. The OEM valve cover in the video just looks terrible.
Cast-cover manufacturers generally avoid powder coating the interior, which is understandable because powder coating is a separate layer that could eventually deteriorate or flake into the engine. However, that leaves the naturally rough and irregular cast-aluminum surface exposed, potentially giving oil, varnish, and residue more places to accumulate.
EAE/EPM Billet covers use a uniform, hard-anodized internal surface. Unlike powder coating, hard anodizing becomes an integral part of the aluminum rather than forming a separate layer over it. It does not suffer from the same flaking concerns as the factory coating or internal powder coating, while the cleaner machined geometry provides fewer pockets for oil and residue to collect compared to OEM covers or cast covers.
Please note, this alone is not a controlled comparison. The factory covers were on my car longer than the V1 covers but after more than 10k miles real-world use of the V1 covers, the cleanliness of our covers is another encouraging indication that the material, finish, and internal design are working as intended. In fact, the bottom surfaces look like they are brand new.
Abdul
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