Quote:
Originally Posted by former 240 s14
This is why I am doing a comprehensive fix for this lubrication situation. All of these conversations are amazing and I am so happy to have it at my disposal. For someone who will be pushing the cars capabilities on track I was afraid of doing a band-aid fix and wanted to do a number things to increase the probability of the engine lasting for a long time.
1. SRD gears - I think Peter said it best, more oil pressure via oil pump gears can't hurt, ever.
2. Baffled oil pan - This is important but needs to be done by a VERY good aluminum welder. I got AAF involved on mine and am very happy with the results.
3. Oil Diverter valve - With the mention of the amount of track use I plan on doing the oil temp is important. For primarily street driven vehicles you'll want to second think this.
4. Accusump- Poor man's drysump. $1000 and you can add 1.5-2qts of oil at any time and also help with precharging the system before cold start (which is a big wear activity on our bearings.)
5. D088 Coolers - This is obviously a must.
6. Bimmerworld physical dipstick kit - I am over waiting for the electronic sensor to do its job and change its mind every 5 minutes.
Rubin
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There's another item you should add to your list, but I am not ready to get into the details yet. Peter has finally given me approval to give this subject my full attention.
Today/tomorrow, I will be wrapping up my S62 VANOS control system redesign, and then I will be fully committed to designing our new S65 oil pump.
The details I am willing to share now: with OEM gearing, my solution will deliver 27.8% more oil volume per pump revolution than the OEM oil pump. That means that, paired with an overdrive kit, my design will deliver nearly 50% more oil volume per crankshaft revolution than the OEM configuration.
All while maintaining 100% of OEM functionalities. To include variable displacement pressure control.
To your points-
1- Yeah, at the moment, that is the best option short of a dry sump. (for a month or two at least)
2- Double-check your oil pan. A contact bought two oil pans from AAF, and both were cracked in the same place. The shop he was working with had 4 in stock, and they found the same crack in the same place on all four. They probably just had a bad batch, but still, you should take a look.
3- I have a solution for this incoming too, but it's lower on the list. All the benefits of deleting the thermostat... while still keeping one. I have a thermostatic block designed; it's pretty clever, with only one moving part, to achieve 100% unrestricted flow to the oil cooler when the temperature is above 100 °C. I am just stuck in my usual crash-out lane of "using a traditional wax thermostatic actuator is fine, but doing an entirely digital standalone unit based around PID control with a full flow fail state would be way cooler."
4- The OEM oil pump flows over 15 gallons per minute. If oil pressure drops below 2 bar, your accumulator will exhaust itself in 2 seconds at most. Our pump upgrade will not cost much more than $1000.
5-love DO88 products.
6- Love this mod too.