Quote:
Originally Posted by BimmerRob08
I got a tap & die metric set and I believe the machined holes are M6x1.0 but make sure to check first. All I did was just run the same thread cutter into the holes and cleaned up the furries metal. Then checked the hex bolts. They don’t require much torque and the little I applied snapped two actually.
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It's very interesting that you mention this.
While I was installing my NRW valve covers over the course of a week or two recently I noticed when hand-threading the aluminum coil cover posts they bottomed out a bit too early (not even dry, I had the hardware liquid-waxed). I took out the calipers and measured the hole depth to be adequate (~3mm over), so I assumed the threading wasn't deep enough into the blind hole. I pulled an audible at that moment and made sure to install a washer as a ~1mm spacer under that post (the one closer to the font of the car) to match the same thing the rear has (what with its grounding ring-terminal and all). I did not chase the holes with a tap, but I probably should have... I'm not sure what would have happened had I tried to torque to spec without the washer, but you're making me even happier I avoided that.
Edit: Oh yah, I also torqued the cam sensor bolts and oil separator bolts to spec (4 Nm + 45°), but it felt very dangerous. I consciously torqued the coil cover posts to a lesser spec (BMW wants 10 Nm and I did 8 Nm).
Quote:
Originally Posted by BimmerRob08
I actually had NRW send me a new valve cover after some debate when I proved to them that their machine holes were too tight.
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I'd love to hear more about this, details please?