Quote:
Originally Posted by Redd
Yeah that's my concern too. There's really not many reliability issues with the stock cooling components. Haven't even heard many issues with plastic end tanks cracking. Aftermarket otoh I keep seeing leaks, poor fitment etc.
|
Yep.
#AftermarketLife
Quote:
Originally Posted by DRLane
OP a couple considerations given your hesitancy and intended track use case (running endurance tires under NA power).
Give the existing radiators a good compressed air cleaning, radiator power wash, and straighten the fins with a comb where necessary.
Ensure the under tray is in good condition and the OEM gurney for oil exit is intact.
Switch radiator to >90% water with water wetter for the season. I say 90% so as to make it super simple to run a repeated drain / refill and use a temp tester to get reasonable accuracy of the mixture. End of season, dump a gallon of concentrate in with a drain and you’re likely more than square for sub-freezing temps.
Invest in high quality oil (Motul 300V, Redline, etc) and just change it every couple track weekends. They can all easily and safely sustain whatever temps you’re generating with NA power / street tire laps. Let the ECU pull power if needed. Hammer it until then 
Lastly, the temp gauge I believe is a combo (oil/coolant). Get a CAN enabled data logger to get more accurate oil and coolant individual temps.
If you wanted to invest in cooler upgrades, my recommendation:
1. Go straight to the oil diverter valve. It’s messy DIY but reasonably straightforward. Offers the most bang for your buck oil improvement. Just note the additional warmup time to get the oil to temp when it’s cold.
2. DO88 oil is great (old stock before the issues?) namely as it adds an additional liter of oil capacity.
3. CSF radiator is sufficiently nice if you want one.
4. PS cooler is useless. Save your money. |
Thanks for all these suggestions. I know you've been around the block on this so it's good to hear from you.
Do you have a sense of how close to the limits the ECU will let things go before pulling power? I've read that bad things can start happening at ~300º F bulk oil temp (certain metal parts losing temper, greatly accelerated oil breakdown, heavily fuel diluted oil e.g. around the pistons flashing off, etc.) but I don't think the ECU pulls power before that point, does it?
Good to know I can cross the PSF cooler (and the MTF cooler) off my list. Simplifies things!