Quote:
Originally Posted by bipp
Honestly, I feel like -3 is a sort of minimum for our cars at the track... you don't lose much on the street and I plan on moving to -3.5 or so down the line to get better tire wear as even then I think I could get a bit more out of the outer edge. Every session on my tires right now is $60... would love to get that down.
I have never driven the PS4S or ECS02, only the original ECS. Those two should be similar. I chunked my original ECS, moved to ECF, and haven't looked back from 200s. You will need to not overdrive and take cooldown laps if you want 300+ tires to last.
For sizing, just go 275/35/18 or 295/30/18 square on 18x10.5 whenever you are able. The ability to rotate got me 2 more days since both tracks I have gone to are CCW. Effectively, that would have made a $450/day consumable down to $300/day. If I had more camber and got a 7th day, then that's a substantial savings as well. See ( https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...&postcount=503) for my current tire wear/breakdown. (I probably have a 7th day, but the outer tread is <1mm, the tires feel super edgy, and I have no desire to make a 6 hour roundtrip drive for tires that have a chance of cording. If there was more meat, I'd try to eke out a 7th day and maybe part of another just to get my money's worth)
Check out the GRM tire guide occasionally. DrFerry's image is a good rundown of the options but I believe they have updated it since and they do so every few months. |
-3.2F and -2R is my sweet spot for a car that’s driven to the track and back home.
On a conservative tire setup like 275/35/18SQ, it works well, but with wider tires, I have to bump it up to -3.5 or up to -3.7F and up to -2.5R. Having eccentric lockouts for the rear camber helps a lot with tire wear since camber changes dynamically without them.