Quote:
Originally Posted by M3SQRD
Are your damper settings from min damping (fully open) or max damping (fully closed)? MCS recommends starting your adjustments from the fully closed position (zero rebound and compression clicks from the fully closed counter-clockwise setting/position). If you have the same tire-fender gap front and rear then you have too much forward rake.
#1 - using the bottom center of each jack pad measured on the chassis (jack pad bottoms are not all the same or the jack pads may be damaged), you want the front measuring point to sit 3/8-7/16” below the rear measuring point. This gets you close to a corner balanced setup minus the cross weight adjustments (all four ride heights typically end up being different after a corner balance). Set the rear ride height first with roughly a ~2-2.5 finger gap. After setting the rear height (and rolling the car forward and back to release the tire stiction so the suspension is sitting properly), set the front height by using the front measuring points described above and setting the front rake 3/8-7/16” below the rear measuring points.
#2 - this is a bit more challenging to set the independent front and rear R/C damper settings because they are track dependent. However, it’s possible to find a compromised damper settings that will work well at most tracks but you’ll be leaving more lap time out on the track. IIRC, the 2WNR has 14 clicks of compression/bump settings and 18 clicks of rebound settings. Recommended starting points are front and rear 8R/4C. Remember C damping adjustment is when the single adjuster is in its popped up position and the R damping adjustment is when the single adjuster is in the pressed down position. However, your spring rates are a dual-purpose street-biased setup whereas a track-biased setup would be F/R 700-800/1000-1100 lbf/in spring rates (divorced rear). The recommended starting damper positions are on the high damping settings for F/R 600/900 lbf/in. What do you mean by front 11R/9C and rear 11R/9C being “messy”? I was going to suggest front 11R/8C and rear 10R/9C. Another option would be to start at the front and rear 8R/4C and increase the number of clockwise rebound clicks in 1-2 increments until you find something with higher R clicks that feels good to you. If 1-2 incremental clockwise adjustments in R feels like it’s too large of a change, switch to 1 click increments. Next, do the same clockwise increments of 1-2 click adjustments in compression until you find what feels good to you. If you feel less confident making C adjustments, change it to 1 click increments at a time. If you get lost, go back to the MCS recommendations or my recommendations and then re-try making R and C clockwise adjustments in increments of 1-2 clicks (or 1 click). Don’t be afraid to adjust your 2W dampers because it’s difficult to create a 2W damper setup that is too dangerous to control/drive.
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Thank you VERY much for the detailed suggestions. To answer your questions or follow ups see below:
1. I do adjust from the softest position like MCS suggests so we are on the same page. I have their two pager cheat sheet for initial setup that I have in my car's setup binder.
2. What I meant by messy is that the settings were a click off between the front and rear. I don't have my notes by me but one Front Driver Compression was at 12 and the Front Passanger Compression was 11 if memory serves me. Hope this makes sense.
My biggest issue right now is that the car is so low I feel the car isn't getting enough suspension travel. See pictures for current ride height. It's not a fan of most curbs right now and I suspect that I need to
1. Raise the car and allow more travel
2. Upgrade next offesason (rebuild time is due on the suspension) to a more track focused spring rate
I really appreciate the insights! Funny you mention James Clay, I race in AER and WRL against him over the years. He always has the sweetest setups.