View Single Post
      06-13-2024, 03:17 PM   #11
M3SQRD
Major General
M3SQRD's Avatar
7938
Rep
9,881
Posts

Drives: 330G20,240F22,M3E92,F82,MCSR56
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Mid-Atlantic

iTrader: (12)

Quote:
Originally Posted by amg6975 View Post
Uh, no. A lot of people claim that happens so for science we chalked a ton of different cars at Watkins Glen and not a single one moved a millimeter. Street tires, slicks, OEM wheels, aftermarket wheels, didn't matter. Tires do not rotate on the rim.

Yes it can and that’s why knurled beads are applied where the tire bead is located. You clearly are nut pushing hard enough because it’s been a common occurrence over the 35+ years of tracking.

This also would have nothing to do with what the pad was, the limiting factor is the friction between the tire and pavement, not the pad and rotor.

Again not true. The max torque occurs early in the braking event which overcomes the tires ability to resist the applied torque. Ask any wheel maker that adds knurled beads to the wheels, what’s their purpose.

Then go for Girodisc rotors and remove as much of your dust shields as you want. I left mine covering the ball joints and cut out all the rest. Made an incredible difference.

You can also try PFC11s, they may last longer than 08s if you're pushing hard.
Girodiscs help because they have more cooling vanes and no obstructions to the cooling vanes like the floating pins and cast Aluminum mounting hat.

I solely use PFC pads and, although the 11 compound is a great progressive pads, the 13 and 39 destroy the 11s. The 05 was supposed to be replaced by the 11 but apparently the 05 is available and it’s another phenomenal pad (05, 13 and 39 not available for stock e9x M and f8x calipers.

Stepping up to the F8x with steel domed pistons, titanium shims and Girodisc, or Paragon, is a nice brake improvement without a high cost.
Appreciate 1
M3MATT110.00