Quote:
Originally Posted by mikentosh
Okay interesting! I couldn't see a good way to kill ignition either, but have now been thinking about just cutting the fuel pump module feed instead. Would definitely be easier if I fully swap to an aftermarket distribution block though.
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We tried this as well, almost anything that is vital enough to kill the car would either cause issues with how the car ran (ie. it wont even start) or it just wont kill the car. The oem PDM (fuse block) will redistribute power to keep vitals alive when you cut power. We cut power to the injectors and ignition, the car would just keep running after stumbling for a second.
This also seems to only be an issue on DCT cars. As the cartek would work if the car was just started and never shifter out of "park". But once it went into gear the car would find a way to keep itself running. I had a BMW tech at the track trying to help me rewire it and had all the oem wiring diagrams. Never had any luck making it work.
IMO, its not worth the headache and way easier to just do a traditional kill switch.
I am running this:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-30204
Everything that normally comes off the oem distribution block is fed off the kill switch, battery feeds the kill switch. Then the alternator wire goes direct to the battery as well. I ended up using two "remote" switches wired in line with each other. The kill switch operates off grounding it through a switch. So either of my switches when flipped off cut the ground to the kill switch making it turn off and the car dies. I have one switch within my reach and a second just inside the passenger window in the dash.