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      09-09-2021, 09:02 AM   #26
gills
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Drives: E36 M3 race car, E30 S54 swap
Join Date: Oct 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derbo View Post
per Core4 Technical page

https://www.core4motorsports.com/tech

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer Barney
What about putting a thin coat of anti seize between the hub face and rotor like many of us do so that rotors don't get stuck on? I regularly check my lugs and after every session on track. Just curious if the anti siege presents a concern to Tom at Core4
Hey guys, just wanted to chime in quickly and clarify something.

When I refer to using anti-seize lubricant it is only when you notice aluminum from the wheel nut seat areas galling onto the lug nut cone seat. So, I mean applying ONLY in the wheel nut seat areas OR on the cone seats of the lug nuts. Not needed to apply to both. One or the other, just a tiny dab of it, and only when you notice galling.

For dedicated race cars and/or heavily tracked dual purpose cars, I highly recommend NO anti-seize on the mating surfaces of rotor to hub, spacer to rotor, wheel to spacer/rotor.

You want maximum friction in between these surfaces, because this frictional interface is what is essentially resisting all the externally applied loads being put into each corner of the car. This is why the clamping force generated from the preloaded wheel studs/bolts is so important. More clamping force = more friction = more load bearing capability = more safety margin.

Achieving max friction is with bone dry, clean surfaces with absolutely zero coatings or externally applied lubricants. Putting lubricant on these mating surfaces decreases the coefficient of friction between them and increases the chances of these the components "slipping" relative to one another. When slipping occurs, even the tiniest amounts of it, it is a recipe for premature bending fatigue failure of wheel studs/bolts.

Now if you have a street car and drive it in the winter or crappy weather often, sure, a little bit anti-seize to prevent things getting stuck won't hurt since you're not putting the same loads on the street as you are on the track with sticky rubber. Or you can clean just clean everything when you know you're going to the track and reapply afterwards.

Hope that all makes sense.

-Tom from Core4
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Last edited by gills; 09-09-2021 at 09:15 AM..
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