Quote:
Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow
Here's the shortest versions of the answers
When a rod bearing dies, the first time you hear about it is when the engine starts knocking or seizes. By then it's too late, you need a new engine.
No one has any issues with their rod bearings until all of a sudden they do. Think about it like a sudden heart attack.
There are no signs of any kind to 'check'
The 2011+ models have 'different' bearings due to a legislation change in Europe but no noticeable difference in terms of clearance
If you lose an engine due to rod bearings you need to buy a new engine and get it installed, and also do rod bearings on that engine unless you are very intent on winning a Darwin award.
On the other hand, you can buy BE bearings -the only ones I'd use- for under $1K and swap them yourself or pay a total of ~3k to get them swapped at a shop.
I bought my 2013 new and changed the rod bearings at 30k. They already looked bad. Then I bought a used 2011 with 33k miles, those also looked bad.
Do it or don't do it. If you don't, just be aware that it may be an expensive experiment. If you do, you pay 3k and sleep like a baby at night.
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Im confused.
1)
https://www.bimmerworld.com/BE-Conne...rings-S65.html = $590 for the set of 16
then I notice at the bottom a recommendation
2)
Genuine BMW Connecting Rod Bolt - E60 M5, E63 M6, E9X M3 = Do I need one of those or 8?
and what about this?
3)
BE Bearings-ARP Connecting Rod Bolt Set - E90/E92/E93 M3 = Do I need this too? does buying one include the entire set?