Quote:
Originally Posted by strommotorsports
Quote:
Originally Posted by //steve\\
For some of us that already have something like the full SPL arms up front that do roll center correction, how much does that do vs these. I'm sure these were designed around all OE arms up front so all of the correction is based on that.
So if someone has all the SPL parts are they 50% to what this achieves....is it 75%, 90%, etc?
I know the SPL fixes roll center but I'm not sure about the other details that these address. I'm going to guess the proper upright is still the superior product but like mentioned above, how much better vs someone already running the SPL parts?
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Hi Guys, lots of good questions on these and will update the website.
The SPL arms appear to have about 6.5mm of correction based on what I see on the tie rod listing. I don't have a set but that is what I can tell from the website. It is hard to go much further than that for a number of reasons including spacing to the rotor and length of the bolt/stud. These parts are great for a slightly lowered car or as a compliment to our uprights (minus the spacers) to be able to change the track width.
The benefits of our uprights vs the SPL parts by themselves:
1) 30mm of ride height correction vs 6.5mm (again from what I can tell - please correct me if I am wrong).
2) Move the strut inboard 5mm to fit a bigger wheel without that pesky 5mm spacer.
3) Correct the position of the thrust arm. We were finding that as the car got lowered too far (20+mm) it was getting excessive anti-dive and shocking the front tires under hard braking. This is especially true on softly sprung cars.
4) These are cnc machined out of forged billet blanks and are extremely strong. The lower outer bolt on the SPL arms takes a lot of load by spacing it out. SPL makes fantastic parts so I am thinking that may be one of the reasons they didn't provide more roll center correction is to keep the loads on that bolt within reason.
In regards to the other question from Alex these are meant to bolt up perfectly to the bearings, strut, wheel speed sensor etc. of an E9X M3 or 1M with no other modification so will work with any part meant for those cars.
Lastly these are not recommended for cars that are not lowered by at least an inch (25mm).
Thanks,
Brett |
Brett few questions
If the strut is moved inboard, (which is great for larger wheel) do you lose some camber?
I know it cam be added back on the camber plate. Just want to understand the geometry.
Considering this upgrade. Really like it's a one part solution for all geometry improvements.
Plus really like the upright being stiffer.
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///M3... Don't want more power, Just want it to turn sharper one step closer each time. -Ohlins TTX Raceline, PolePostions seats, Akrapovic EVO, ARC-8, 1/2 Cage, Seat Delete, Stoptech BBK, solid Subframe and diff bushing, spherical bearing on everything.