What's up everyone.
My friend entrusted me to replace the evaporator on his E92 M3
He was getting the typical refrigerant smell through the vents and having to add a lot.
This is a straight forward replacement for those that have not done it.
Here is part 1:
Part 2, Adobe and YouTube re not getting along at the moment and can not seem to render without putting something in slow motion or mixing audio files up . . . so coming soon
Start off by ensuring your evaporator is indeed faulty before taking on this job and its't something else causing your leak or stench.
Once you have determined the evaporator is indeed leaking make sure to properly recover the freon and note the amount of oil pulled from system.
There are numerous parts you can start this project.
*Remove the rear console, if in a E92
*Remove the furthest trim section and the 2 10mm nuts under the trim.
*Carefully pry the rear air vent as there are Torx and 10mm under there that will needs to be removed, removed the connector for the air controls and the side lights.
*Lift up on the parking brake and DSG or shifter coverings (leather in this vehicle)
*Carefully pry the trim surrounding shifter (big part with ashtray) there will be two covers, caps, remove them there are two more 10mm to remove
*Carefully remove connectors and wiggle out center console while being aware of seats and doors.
At this point you can move the seats to their furthest down and back position for space, you shouldn't have to remove the seats for this job.
*Remove both left and right under dash trim, a few Torx bolts and remove the electrical connectors from them, if needed take detail pictures of connectors and cables through out this process.
*Remove hood pop (after popping the hood) there is one philips screw holding it
*Remove side panel and connectors, repeat for opposite side of vehicle
*Remove in dash cup holders, pry trim surrounding and 4 philips holding them place (must do this before removing glove box)
*Open clove box, pull pin for box shock, remove 6 Torx, one on each side and four at the top, lower glove box and disconnect connectors
*Remove large trim piece that holds start/stop, vents, central locking and hazards lights, this is another pry only removal but be cautious when removing the connectors especially for the start/stop as it uses a thin ribbon connection
*Remove left vent, pry only as well
I like to work from top to bottom now
*Remove the instrument cluster and Nav screen if fitted, both our held by 2 little Torx, both have connectors that will need to be removed
*Pry the surrounding trim from around radio (CIC and RAD2 differ slightly) again work you way down, there will be obvious connectors and if Torx to be removed
*Pull weather seal near a-pillars, remove SRS or airbag cover on a-pillar and remove the Torx, slightly pry out and up to remove them
*Remove side trim on side of dash, under a-pillars, on the passenger side of this E92 there was a 10m behind the trim securing dash to crash bar
Good part to disconnect the battery and let it drain off for a while because we will be touching airbag components, you can move under the hood now
*For M cars the intake manifold will need to be removed as well as the air pump
*With freon properly evacuated and stored remove lines from expansion valve, two allen bolts, one for each line (orings will need to be replaced)
*Remove the two heater lines, one secured with a squeeze clamp the other has the normal BMW quick connect coolant hoses
*Remove expansion valve 2 Torx bolts
*Optional remove the surrounding insulation for the 4 lines, there are 4 10mm nuts holding this on
Remove the cover on the center of the "fire wall" or your familiar term for it, them remove the Torx (this is the only bolt securing EVAP/Heater Box to the car once you remove the crash bar inside of vehicle)
Should be safe, but now at your own caution, risk and responsibility it is time to take on removing steering wheel and remaining dash/crash bar
*Not responsible for anything here, use a screw drive or Torx bit and gently press into side of steering wheel ( there are small service reliefs back there) until you feel resistance, it is now a game of feeling but typically you can press on the spring and one side and that corresponding side of the air bad will release
*There is a 16mm bolt for the steering wheel, lossen and remove the connectors before taking steering wheel off
*Note there are alignment marks on the steering wheel, column and clock spring
*Separate the clam shell trim surrounding the column, remove connectors for stalk controls
*Under the passenger side dash there are two airbag connectors, those will need to be removed the same way as the steering wheel
*Do a final check for Torx screws securing dash down
*Slowly lift and pull dash away, **there will be a couple more connectors to remove for the sensor on top of dash and speaker**
Take pictures of routing of harness
*Remove crash bar, there was one bolt I removed up front under hood near where the column goes through "fire wall"
*Remove the 4 Torx for the column to crash bar
*Remove crash bar. There will be two 13mm on each far end, 4 13mm for crash bar to column, 2 13mm where radio and ac was and 2 13mm on top of the EVAP/heater box
*I can not stress enough caution of the harnesses and connectors and their routing, pay attention and make sure all is free from the bar and carefully remove
Now that is out of the way it time to remove the box, if you have already removed lines and the one bolt it's time to move on to the harness for all of the blend motors and temperature sensors. Remove box, careful of coolant spillage.
*Follow EVAP lines and remove the numerous surrounding Torx and genitally pull off the top cover and remove EVAP
To keep this short re-assemble in reverse, replace any orings that were touched, opened or exposed during this repair and have you AC service using that noted down oil removed during the evacuation part in the beginning