Quote:
Originally Posted by jphughan
Hmm, interesting. When I first got the camber plates I asked the shop doing the install and alignment to check the minimum and maximum camber just so I knew the range, and the shop said that when they maxed it out they got -2.8 and I think 1/4" toe-in, so they dialed it back a bit (which I would have wanted anyway). But I haven't confirmed this myself, so I've updated my post above. I still don't see myself adjusting my plates for street and track even if adding negative camber increases toe-out. It's just one more step away from having a car you can drive to the track, run around in, and drive home, which I really enjoy.
I'm not an instructor yet; I've just started down that path. I run primarily with The Driver's Edge out here and as I understand it so far, they have instructor clinics, evaluation periods, etc, so it will be a while. I've just gotten to the point where a few instructors have told me that my skills are at an appropriate level, and people who know me in other capacities know that I'm a good mentor/teacher, partly because I'm patient with people and good at finding lots of different ways to explain things to get through to different people, so I thought about it and decided it was something I wanted to pursue.
Would love to do 36 track days per year though, wow!  But even if it weren't for the cost concern, the wife might have something to say about that if I was gone all weekend that frequently. Ah well. But if you're interested, at your next event ask what you should be doing to work towards becoming an instructor. |
just look at the geometry of the front strut and you'll know that I'm correct.
The front struts are raked to the rear of the car...ie not vertical but leaning backwards.
When you adjust camber more negative, this toes the wheels out.
Imagine that the rake is to the point where the strut is almost horizontal...then the camber plates would just adjust toe....and pushing the struts in would toe out.