DIY: Idle Control Device / Valve and Tubing

I have been having similar symptoms with everyone that has had the Idle Control Valve problem (the actual part for the car is called an Idle Control Device, I could not find an actual part for Idle Control Valve when I was trying to look up parts) so I have decided to replace it and also the tubing that connects to the plenum. I will be piggybacking off of the DIY from W/// for the actuator up until actually removing the actuators. Many thanks and credit to W/// for making that DIY.

Parts replaced:



#1 IDLE CONTROL DEVICE:13999941 BMW - 13-41-7-838-024
#6 TUBING:135040 BMW - 13-41-7-839-097

1. Perform all the steps of this DIY except do not remove the actuators (unless you are changing those too).

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=735033&highlight=actuator%27

2. The Idle Control Device is under these tubes where the red circle in the middle. The tubing connects from the Idle Control Device to the plenum and is routed to the right side as pictured.



3. Remove the metal ring clamp that connects to the Idle Control Device from the picture and move this whole line to the side (I couldn't undo the connector on the device so I just moved it out of the way).



4. Remove the connector from the top of the Idle Control Device and the tubing if you will be replacing that. Remove the metal ring clamp from the bottom of the Idle Control Device.



5. After you remove both the top connector and the Metal Ring clamp from the bottom, the Idle Control Device will move more freely. It is only sitting on two rubber grommets at the bottom. You just need to wiggle it around and pull it off the rubber grommets. Here is the picture of the Idle Control Device removed and you can see the 2 metal prongs that goes inside the rubber grommets.



And after its removed:



6. Replace the Idle Control Device with a new one and put everything back into its place and remember to connect all the connectors back to where they belong.

That's why I love this forum....awesome work, Dat. Thats a much easier job than i thought it would be. I'm going to go ahead and replace mine since I've thrown the same code a few times. Thanks for taking the time to post this up.

Forgot to ask....did this solve your problem or too soon to tell?

RBB wrote  

That's why I love this forum....awesome work, Dat. Thats a much easier job than i thought it would be. I'm going to go ahead and replace mine since I've thrown the same code a few times. Thanks for taking the time to post this up.

Forgot to ask....did this solve your problem or too soon to tell?

I haven't actually replaced the part yet. It won't get here until Monday. I just wanted to take the parts out now so i didn't have to waste time when i got them in.

aznboi319 wrote

I haven't actually replaced the part yet. It won't get here until Monday. I just wanted to take the parts out now so i didn't have to waste time when i got them in.

Dat, did you get this replaced? Solve your problems?

Yes, I have it replaced. I replaced this and also the fuel pressure sensor. The car idles smoothly and has been doing good.

RBB wrote

That's why I love this forum....awesome work, Dat. Thats a much easier job than i thought it would be. I'm going to go ahead and replace mine since I've thrown the same code a few times. Thanks for taking the time to post this up.

Forgot to ask....did this solve your problem or too soon to tell?

What was the code it threw

Giorgia wrote

What was the code it threw

This was a while ago, but I believe it was 2B0D.

When cold start my engine idle keep bouncing , almost shut the engine off I'm "helping" the car with my foot on the gas pedal keep it on 1500rpm few seconds (20 sec) until the cold start ends
Do I need to replace this part or the actuators

(Always have this problem when the car parked few days....and only at the first start)
Thanks

OMRITIME wrote  

When cold start my engine idle keep bouncing , almost shut the engine off I'm "helping" the car with my foot on the gas pedal keep it on 1500rpm few seconds (20 sec) until the cold start ends
Do I need to replace this part or the actuators

(Always have this problem when the car parked few days....and only at the first start)
Thanks

How many miles are you? Sounds like your actuators are about to go out. There are 2 actuators one on each bank so you would need to see which one is unless you want to replace both. Actuators are a bit expensive, i think they were around a grand each. I would replace both if you are above 80k miles. Dead actuator will put you in limp mode.

aznboi319 wrote

How many miles are you? Sounds like your actuators are about to go out. There are 2 actuators one on each bank so you would need to see which one is unless you want to replace both. Actuators are a bit expensive, i think they were around a grand each. I would replace both if you are above 80k miles. Dead actuator will put you in limp mode.

no shit!!!

my car 38k miles
the never enter limp mode
so i dont know....

OP must have tiny hands. I can't get access to the hose that goes to the intake plenum. I have loosened the wiring harness a bit but can't tell how to remove it entirely. The pump at the firewall end of the harness makes it hard to lift. couldn't see how to remove it. my hands can reach the connector for the hose, but i don't have leverage to open it.

got it eventually but my gorilla hands broke the clip off a wire connector attached to the bottom of the harness between the actuators. trying to determine next course of action. the connector had been clipped to the bottom of the harness but now swings free. considering tying it in place or weaving the wires around other wires to create tension.

possible to get a new connector and rewire?

Thanks for posting this DIY. Your directions made it sound so easy, "just wiggle it free". My experience went a little different. I had to wrestle with mine for about an hour, loosen the wiring / air pump to get enough clearance, and remove the tubing associated with the idle control valve to get enough space to "wiggle it free" its in a tough location too where you have to be stretched out over the engine bay. Sore fingers and forearms this morning. I'm going to button it up after work today and hopefully it resolves the issues I was having with my vehicle.

Locksmythe wrote

got it eventually but my gorilla hands broke the clip off a wire connector attached to the bottom of the harness between the actuators. trying to determine next course of action. the connector had been clipped to the bottom of the harness but now swings free. considering tying it in place or weaving the wires around other wires to create tension.

possible to get a new connector and rewire?

Probably too late to help, but you can have my old idle control valve if you need to source some wiring

ItsCoo2PYoPants wrote

Probably too late to help, but you can have my old idle control valve if you need to source some wiring

Thanks a lot, but that is unnecessary. What I broke was actually the plastic shell of the primary engine wiring harness that runs down the center of the engine above the ICV. I did not see how one of the wires was attached and I pulled off the little latching slot that the wiring connector slid into. I bought some high temp zip ties and zipped the stationary side of the connection into its original place. I have saved more money than I have broken things, but I do still keep breaking things...

What is the symptoms of bad idle actuator?

What is the symptoms of bad idle actuator?

Locksmythe wrote

Thanks a lot, but that is unnecessary. What I broke was actually the plastic shell of the primary engine wiring harness that runs down the center of the engine above the ICV. I did not see how one of the wires was attached and I pulled off the little latching slot that the wiring connector slid into. I bought some high temp zip ties and zipped the stationary side of the connection into its original place. I have saved more money than I have broken things, but I do still keep breaking things...

Same experience here... working on cars entails breaking things. The difference of doing it yourself is that when something breaks you see it and replace it.

Dealers or shops are more inclined to hide what they broke

ItsCoo2PYoPants wrote

Probably too late to help, but you can have my old idle control valve if you need to source some wiring

Is your old one still good? I'm throwing code CDBE "Idling speed control valve CAN message bank 2"
I'm local

Ty

when you plan on performing this work, don't forget to order all the needed clamps and the Boot Clamp Pliers.

you gonna need:
BMW Clamp 32111135522 - 1
BMW Clamp 16121180240 - 1

Can someone re host the pics or send them to me? I am about to have a friend help me replace mine.