Possible selector lever fault 5A25,CF12 and CF27 fault codes

I was enjoying I75 and 696 here in Metro detroit last night when I heard the dreaded dash chime after a 911 GT3 blew out my eardrums.

Called AAA and they were hilariously incompetent so I ordered another tow that would arrive within 30 minutes. It took AAA 90 minutes to find a tow and it still would take them another hour to arrive. Completely worthless service now even after having it since 2007 and this being the first time I am using it since 2014.

Anyway pulled out the foxwell scanner that served me very well on my E39 touring and went to work.

Fault codes are as follows

5A25
CF12
CF27

Looking like I will be replacing my shifter assembly or at least the selector wiring.

Pacific motors in Detroit has a handful of them in stock so I will swing by there Monday or Tuesday. Might actually break out the quickjacks if I have to replace the entire unit.

Not exactly optimal only 1300 miles into ownership and three weeks but such is life with older cars and BMWs.

I was forced to drag out the old STi Wagon project for cars and coffee instead.

Update

Found a local DCT shifter assembly at Seems Legit Garage that I will be picking up this week to swap in and diagnose any additional faults. Luckily its used so it appears I will not have to do any coding unlike the ABS module in my old E39 touring.

2008 model year part plugged right in and fired up

We will see how long this one lasts, time to swap it out tomorrow

If anyone runs into this similar problem if its a used unit you don't need any coding.

You remove the center console being careful to disconnect all the plugs from the CIC, Cigarette lighter, DCT toggle switch and more.

Then you are left with the three connectors on the DCT shifter module, unplug all of them carefully and put them to the side.

Remove the sound deadening foam surround and be careful to not damage any wires around it. Then you need T30 torx to remove the three bolts mounting the shifter module to the chassis.

Then you will need to disconnect the parking brake release, take pictures of how its mounted to the shifter as its kind of a pain to get back in place. Removal involves very small torx screws that are like T10 or T7.5 size they are tiny and a pain. The cable itself has a locking ring on the tip of it along with a plastic guide and a spring attached to it as well.

Once that is done you bolt in your new shifter unit and reconnect the parking brake. You will have to strip down the parking brake cable to just the bare cable and wiggle it through the rubber seal on your new shifter module. I had to use some silicone grease to get it to work or grab some KY jelly from the house.

Then bolt the shifter unit back into the chassis and reconnect all three plugs making sure not to damage the two pins on the parking release sensor / solenoid as they are tiny.

Plug all the connectors back into your center console and seat it back into the car listening for the pop of the clips engaging into the center console.

Tools needed

T30 torx
T10/7.5 trox
Pick tool
flathead screwdriver
trim tools
lubricant of your choice
good lighting

Overall should be a 2-4 hour adventure, biggest pain was getting the parking cable back in and seating the rubber weather shield on the bottom of the shifter assembly along with wiggling it all back into the center console.

Took myself and a friend around 2-3 hours and the car drives great after. If the issue comes back I am going to take it to a local shop for electrical draw testing and order a new one from FCP.

This video gives you a good idea of what you are doing and its basically the same process.