They probably didnt mark this coupler clearly. Maybe off by a few splines.
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07-16-2026LAST POST
Post RB alignment. After I picked up the car, I noticed on the highway there's a slight pull to the right at around 80 mph. I didn't really notice it before the RB and I'm not sure what the alignment was before the sub frame was dropped. It's only after I noticed the problem driving that I looked at the alignment print out with the rest of the receipts and saw the difference. Is the front left camber causing the slight right drift? Wheel ever so slightly to the right as well. Stock non zcp with EDC and wheels that are 9.5/10.5 19" with 20mm spacers in the rear only. Servotronics coding also updated while the car was in the shop but that shouldn't really cause this. I do feel the steering is heavier in sport. It now pulls to the right when in sport but no real pull in normal, maybe the heaviness is emphasizing it
The short answer is yes. The difference between the left front and right front camber angle is called "camber split". In the NASCAR world it's called "wedge". Anyway, when a tire rolls straight down the road with camber a lateral force is created in the contact patch called "camber thrust". You can look these terms up on YT or Google but suffice to say for each axle; you need to get the camber angles on both wheels as close as possible to equal - same with toe angle too.
Because most, if not all, independent suspensions gain negative camber in suspension bump (compression), and positive camber in droop (rebound), it's a best practice in racing to get the car aligned with the driver in the driver's seat and half a tank of gas - because the load alters the corner weights and also the static camber. Your results are static and not dynamic camber which changes during driving with load, but it's used as the reference starting point.
Because most public roads have a crown (slope) for drainage the left and right side tire loads are not quite the same especially if the road slope is more than 3%. It means any static camber split is further exacerbated by road crown, load and inflation pressures. Minimize the camber split and also minimize any caster split. The higher the caster angle the straighter the vehicle will typically want to drive.
The steering column shaft may be off at the rack by a spline or two causing the wheel to be slightly tilted off to the right. It's annoying but not a cause of drift or pull since the rack is self centering. Hope all of this helps.
https://www.m3post.com/forums/showpost.php?p=28453655&postcount=42
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https://www.m3post.com/forums/showpost.php?p=28453565&postcount=40
Because most, if not all, independent suspensions gain negative camber in suspension bump (compression), and positive camber in droop (rebound), it's a best practice in racing to get the car aligned with the driver in the driver's seat and half a tank of gas - because the load alters the corner weights and also the static camber. Your results are static and not dynamic camber which changes during driving with load, but it's used as the reference starting point.
Because most public roads have a crown (slope) for drainage the left and right side tire loads are not quite the same especially if the road slope is more than 3%. It means any static camber split is further exacerbated by road crown, load and inflation pressures. Minimize the camber split and also minimize any caster split. The higher the caster angle the straighter the vehicle will typically want to drive.
The steering column shaft may be off at the rack by a spline or two causing the wheel to be slightly tilted off to the right. It's annoying but not a cause of drift or pull since the rack is self centering. Hope all of this helps.
https://www.m3post.com/forums/showpost.php?p=28453655&postcount=42
.
https://www.m3post.com/forums/showpost.php?p=28453565&postcount=40
Hi, did you ever get this fixed ?
