rmashman wroteThanks for the post, good info. I have a question; for sure is the Castrol Edge RS 10W 60 the same as the Castrol TWS Motorsport 10W 60?? I know that the numbers are the same.I recently decided to purchase access to bmwtechinfo.com for a day so I could check on various procedures.
From my owners manual, its says that the oil in the engine, transmission and differential are changed at the post break in-1200 mile service. It didn't mention the oil filter so I don't know if that is changed or not.
After looking at various procedure and data pages I was able to come up the the capacities and types of lubricants that are required for the 1200 service. It might be wise to confirm that your dealership is using the correct lubricant for each of the three applications. Sometimes shops use only one grear lubricant for all applications. But a specific and different oil is necessary for the transmission and differential.
Main Lubricants for E92/S65 M3
Engine-
w/filter 8.8 liters,9.3 quarts
no filter 8.4 liters,8.9 quarts
BMW High Performance Synthetic Oil Castrol RS SAE 10-60, also called
Castrol TWS Motorsport SAE 10-60
p/n 07 51 0 009 420 (quart)
oil filter p/n 11 42 7 837 977
Transmission - 2.1 liters, 2.2 quarts
Castrol MTF-LT-2
p/n 83 22 0309 031
Differential - 1.1 liters, 1.2 quarts
SAF-XJ Synthetic Final Drive oil for Limited Slip Differential
p/n 83 22 1 470 080 (55 gal drum)
From: bmwtechinfo.com
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08-23-2016LAST POST
Just had the 1,200-mile service done, and at least I know they used the correct tranny and engine oil, but wish I had found this forum yesterday.
Anyway, oil level shows halfway between arrows, and tech said NOT to put any more since he already put the 8.8 quarts called for. Well, it's 8.8 LITERS, or 9.3 qts, which explains why 1/2-qt low. He also said it might take days for the level to show up correctly, which is crap, right? What's the best way you recommend to check the level? Car idling after a long drive? While driving? My new car had the owner's manual missing and it's on the way, so please give me a break. Thanks gang.
Anyway, oil level shows halfway between arrows, and tech said NOT to put any more since he already put the 8.8 quarts called for. Well, it's 8.8 LITERS, or 9.3 qts, which explains why 1/2-qt low. He also said it might take days for the level to show up correctly, which is crap, right? What's the best way you recommend to check the level? Car idling after a long drive? While driving? My new car had the owner's manual missing and it's on the way, so please give me a break. Thanks gang.
elp_jc wroteHe might of meant liters, but just said quarts. The electronic level guage does suck. Per my post here http://www.m3post.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3885773&postcount=15 it was still telling me to put in a quart after putting in 8,75 and driving it a couple times. I don't know the BEST way to get an accurate quick reading, but you definitely want to error on the conservative side and keep[ track of how much you add.Just had the 1,200-mile service done, and at least I know they used the correct tranny and engine oil, but wish I had found this forum yesterday.
Anyway, oil level shows halfway between arrows, and tech said NOT to put any more since he already put the 8.8 quarts called for. Well, it's 8.8 LITERS, or 9.3 qts, which explains why 1/2-qt low. He also said it might take days for the level to show up correctly, which is crap, right? What's the best way you recommend to check the level? Car idling after a long drive? While driving? My new car had the owner's manual missing and it's on the way, so please give me a break. Thanks gang.
Thread referenced by Alex1911 in Attention all 6 speed MT owners! - 1200 miles service bulletin 06-20-2010
Just did my annual oil change (yes, rather pay than take car to dealer 
), draining engine overnight, and sucking the 0.2L inside the oil filter housing, and engine sucked 9.5L until full. Last time tech (at 1.2K-mile service) left car draining during his hour-long lunch, meaning if I hadn't sucked the filter housing dry (he obviously didn't), it'd have been exactly 9.3L again 
. The good news is next oil change I'll just buy the kit and use the 1/2-liter left (bought 10 liters this time) to top it off, like I always do. My guess is the 8.8L figure is with a quick drain, like most dealers do. The good news is level didn't move from full in about 3K miles, and half that was highway between 3 and 4K rpm most of the time.
Although I much prefer a regular dipstick, I have my electronic oil sensor figured out to a 'T', and has been 100% consistent. And also accurate, within its 0.25L tolerance. As a final note, my suspicion is most new cars are not topped off by dealers, and might give some owners the impression their cars are burning oil, or more than they think. That's why I always top off my vehicles, and monitor oil consumption. Not only to know how much they consume, but to avoid having to carry oil in the trunk. Take care gang.
), draining engine overnight, and sucking the 0.2L inside the oil filter housing, and engine sucked 9.5L until full. Last time tech (at 1.2K-mile service) left car draining during his hour-long lunch, meaning if I hadn't sucked the filter housing dry (he obviously didn't), it'd have been exactly 9.3L again . The good news is next oil change I'll just buy the kit and use the 1/2-liter left (bought 10 liters this time) to top it off, like I always do. My guess is the 8.8L figure is with a quick drain, like most dealers do. The good news is level didn't move from full in about 3K miles, and half that was highway between 3 and 4K rpm most of the time.Although I much prefer a regular dipstick, I have my electronic oil sensor figured out to a 'T', and has been 100% consistent. And also accurate, within its 0.25L tolerance. As a final note, my suspicion is most new cars are not topped off by dealers, and might give some owners the impression their cars are burning oil, or more than they think. That's why I always top off my vehicles, and monitor oil consumption. Not only to know how much they consume, but to avoid having to carry oil in the trunk. Take care gang.
whats the difference between these two?
Castrol MTF-LT-2
83 22 0309 031 (five liters)
83 22 0406 941 (half liter)
Castrol MTF-LT-3
83 22 7533 818 (five liter)
also when i had my service my transmission fluid was listed as 83 22 0406 582, which isnt the same as any of the above.
Castrol MTF-LT-2
83 22 0309 031 (five liters)
83 22 0406 941 (half liter)
Castrol MTF-LT-3
83 22 7533 818 (five liter)
also when i had my service my transmission fluid was listed as 83 22 0406 582, which isnt the same as any of the above.
montreal red wrote+1whats the difference between these two?
Castrol MTF-LT-2
83 22 0309 031 (five liters)
83 22 0406 941 (half liter)
Castrol MTF-LT-3
83 22 7533 818 (five liter)
also when i had my service my transmission fluid was listed as 83 22 0406 582, which isnt the same as any of the above.
does anyone know anything about total oil I heard it was better than the bmw Castrol oil ?
Thread referenced by ///BYU in CORRECT 1M Fluids List [Engine, Transmission, Differential] 01-14-2012
So does 83 22 1 470 080 (55 liter drum) or 83 22 1 467 993 (one liter) have the FM booster?
Buddy of mine is a master mechanic for a dealership and he says Mobil 1 15-50 is fine. I just had a full service completed at 27,195 miles where they performed, Diff, Trans, Brake and Oil change. They said they would change the plugs after 30k miles. Brake fluid PN 81 22 0 142 156. Other fluids match PN#'s of previous posts.
I use Liqui moly 10w60 and Redline diff fluid with success. Both are cheaper than the OEM spec.
montreal red wroteAnyone know the answer to this? Question was asked in 2010 and still don't see an answer.whats the difference between these two?
Castrol MTF-LT-2
83 22 0309 031 (five liters)
83 22 0406 941 (half liter)
Castrol MTF-LT-3
83 22 7533 818 (five liter)
also when i had my service my transmission fluid was listed as 83 22 0406 582, which isnt the same as any of the above.
Porschefile wroteThat's what I used as well. Will be going to Redline diff fluid too.I use Liqui moly 10w60 and Redline diff fluid with success. Both are cheaper than the OEM spec.
Diff fluid spec? 75w-90 or 75w-140?
Ahhh, figured it out by looking at ECS' website pics of the factory SAF-XJ 1/2-liter bottles.
75w-140 is the proper viscosity for the differential oil (same as the E46M3 diff!).
Ahhh, figured it out by looking at ECS' website pics of the factory SAF-XJ 1/2-liter bottles.
75w-140 is the proper viscosity for the differential oil (same as the E46M3 diff!).
JAJ wroteCan you elaborate a little more on the "BMW TIS", never heard of it? ThanksThe E39 M5 crowd has flogged the engine oil issue to death - the BMW TIS allows both 5w-30 and 10w-60 (!) and those who've tried both didn't find much of a difference in driving experience or in UOA.
TWS is what BMW Motorsport (not "M" but the actual racing division) specs for most of their engines, except for the Formula 1 V8. It's installed and sealed inside Formula BMW engines, it's spec'd for the E46 M3 GTR V8 and it's in pretty much everything else they sell so race cars can race. It's on par with the best racing oils in the world. That it's as cheap as it is is surprising.
I went through the gamut of different (allowed) oils on my E39 M5 - nothing did better than TWS although I did find a few that performed just as well. So why mess with oil selection? There's nothing better and it's free if you follow the maintenance schedule!
