DIY: Power Steering COMPLETE Flush

V good write-up! May I add, however, that the process can be faster and more thorough if an assistant starts the engine with the wheels on the ground (no need to jack car up) while you keep a close watch on the fluid level in the reservoir, making sure it doesn't run dry. I want to try that method after watching two videos from Germany on Youtube showing it.
Be careful to instruct the assistant to turn the engine off after only 2-3 seconds as the outflow is fast.

jvictormp wrote

Wow. Why you're doing six times?

I have had the car for 10 years, well, it is going to be 10 on 04/21.

Just finished up a PS fluid flush with this method and wanted to note a couple ways to remove more fluid and decrease changes of spillage:

-After siphoning out the majority of the fluid from the reservoir, a fair amount will remain hiding underneath the filter cover, which is held on by a Torx screw. Although you can't remove the filter from the reservoir, if you remove the screw you can slide the filter to the side and access a bit further in the reservoir with your turkey baster to get some more out. The screw threads into plastic - so finger tight only when reinstalling!

-Rather than capping the smaller port after removing the hose, I chose to pile a bunch of rags surrounding a small, thin container and drain the remainder of the oil in there. If you remove the reservoir from the clamp you can tilt it to get all the oil out of it - therefore no vacuum cap required.

I found that siphoning the reservoir with a turkey baster using the method above filled about an entire red solo cup full of old, black oil. Lifting the front end and turning the wheels multiple times yielded almost another entire cup! Great way to purge the system of old oil without wasting new oil trying to dilute it.

I followed this procedure and it was much easier than undoing the lower connections.

I will add that afterwards, I got the dreaded steering position sensor code, but luckily 2 hours of fiddling with the foxwell tool I was able to reset the sensor. The back and forth of the wheel during the flush must have triggered it.

I had mixed success with this method.

E91 n52 328xi the 1/2” od is correct, but I went with braided nylon tubing on account of fearing that the softer plain vinyl would leak at the worm clamp. Well, wheel got stuck at center, I applied pressure, and the tubing shot out the return line and puked fluid everywhere— twice! My id must have been too narrow— ended up using a fluid evacuator, while turning the wheel outside the car so I could pump the evacuator at the same time. Do NOT buy thick walled 1/2” hose, but 1/2 od is absolutely correct.

I ended up going to a manual car wash to clean the engine bay then a regular car wash. BUT there isn’t enough money in the world to get me under the car in my driveway this time of year in Michigan to remove the shield crusted with ice and salt, to drain the banjo bolts—this method is awesome!

PS Factory clamps (I bought Fcp kit) are impossible to close without the proper tool—I modified otieker clamp pliers (I work on Volvos) but no standard pliers or set of pliers (I have many different needle nosed pliers) could close it.