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      05-16-2014, 12:16 PM   #1
SouthShoreM3
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Hey all,

So I have a question for the community that I can't seem to find any info on. I have had this kit in the car since summer of last year. I know the temps will be slightly higher becuase of the SC. However, I was not expecting it to be as high as I describe under very normal street and temperature conditions. I live in MA and only for a few months do we have extreme temps and humidity. Regardless if its 50 degrees F or in the 90s. My internal gauge in the stock cluster will read at an average of 230 degrees. If I am in traffic, feel like driving it a little more aggressive and have the AC on. The temp will easily reach the third to last indicator and will in many scenarios (especially I it's in the high 80s-90s) I will get an engine too hot temp and to cool the engine down.

We have checked everything from the internal plumbing, fluids, making sure there are no kinks or loose hoses. Everything is in perfect working order.

Could it possibly be the thermostat? The temp rises the quickest under hard acceleration. I'm wondering if it just isn't opening up and this causing this issue.

Any recommendations or ideas would be appreciated. For what it's worth the car is also catless. I do oil swap every 3k miles.only 93 or 100 octane. And have only used 10w-60 oil for the S65. Thought about switching on my last oil change. But I did not end up doing it.

Another quick item and who knows how accurate the gauges are. My P3 is stating my coolant temp anywhere from 195-205 degrees.

Oil pressure is spot on and have seen no issues there. I guess my final resort is to buy a data logger and plug it in and drive around and see what comes up. But, I believe these tools are very expensive.

Any ideas are appreciated!
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      05-16-2014, 01:37 PM   #2
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Simple but, are you sure the fan is running?
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      05-16-2014, 02:29 PM   #3
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Thanks for the response. Yes the fan is running. However, when driving maybe it isn't. Not sure how I could check that.
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      05-16-2014, 02:34 PM   #4
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Well oil temp can also be a function of coolant temp. I find it odd if you have indeed logged consistent coolant temp but a wide variety of oil temps. If you are overrunning the thermal capacitance of the oil cooling then your coolant temps would raise as well. That would make me think you have some type of blockage or something going on internal to the supercharger causing extra friction and/or heat. It's all general speculation but I remember reading pretty stringent testing for the non-intercooled kits in regards to coolant, oil, and iat readings and they were fairly consistent and not overly high.
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      05-16-2014, 05:15 PM   #5
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What kind of oil are you running?
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      05-16-2014, 05:19 PM   #6
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Do you have stock accessory pulleys as well?
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      05-16-2014, 10:27 PM   #7
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Temps sound perfectly reasonable to me. I have been told that on a tracked car these motors tend to run a but cooler water temps and a bit warmer oil temps. 200ish water and 230 oil is well within range. I'd get nervous with coolant pushing 220-225, and oil going over 280.
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      05-16-2014, 10:55 PM   #8
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Not in 50 degree weather. Here is a real obvious one but it happens, is your radiator or oil cooler blocked by debris or scoops? I got a big plastic bag once plastered to radiator .

If not I think changing the thermostat and oil level/ temp sensor lights cover it given you've checked other big things
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      05-17-2014, 03:00 PM   #9
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Thanks guys for all the feedback. The only oil ever put into the engine has been the originally approved one by BMW. I did think about switching over to a Motoul and lower viscosity, but kept it the same for my last recent oil change.

Last summer I had a Technocraft carbon fiber scoops where the OEM one would be. We took it out because it was taking up a huge area of the radiator so we thought that would fix it. Unfortunately it did not. There was a tiny bit of improvement.

As for the pulleys. Everything is exactly how ESS instructed the kit to be installed. This kit does have an intercooler.

Even driving it this morning, temp is way up and keep in mind this is not in the track all. I know it will run hotter on the track. We are talking about very mild temperatures and even as low as the 50s and the oil/coolant temp that BMW provides.
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      05-19-2014, 01:08 AM   #10
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I would try purge air out of coolant. Turn engine on and remove coolant reevoir and essentially bleed the system. You could have air bubbles introduced in system causing problems. I think you just open up reservoir and idle engine at 3-4k rpms for30 second intervals. Do it a few times. Then tighten lid back
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      05-19-2014, 01:15 AM   #11
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Forgot to say turn on climate control on max heat. Start engine with reservoir cap off. Then probably let it run for 10-15 mins until engine temp is completely warmed up. Do intervals of 30 seconds of throttle holding at 4k ROMs. I have a hunch this will fix you right up
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      05-19-2014, 10:52 AM   #12
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Thank you very much for this input. I will try it tonight when I get home. The only other solution is to buy an ESS oil cooler.

Unfortunately not sure if that is in the budget at this time as I currently in the process of building a home! And I thought modding cars was expensive!!
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      05-19-2014, 11:39 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthShoreM3 View Post
Thank you very much for this input. I will try it tonight when I get home. The only other solution is to buy an ESS oil cooler.

Unfortunately not sure if that is in the budget at this time as I currently in the process of building a home! And I thought modding cars was expensive!!


There's no reason to fork out too much $$ for an oil cooler. That's band aid to the prob. while the car will run hot and most BMW tend to run hotter than most other cars, the too hot mesage on Idirve indicates that something is wrong.

I would start by bleeding the coolany system. Remember to open the bleed screw. It's very easy to bleed the air out on these cars. Squeeze the upper/lower hose if you can to assist w/ bleeding. What you may be seeing is a false message meaning if air is in the system you're seeing the air flash over the temp sensor and the car thinks it's running too hot. If you're seeing the actual water temp rise (not The OIL TEMP GAUGE ON DASH!!!!!)

relative to boost then that would be indicative of the car pushing coolant and possible head gasket failure. I don't think that's the issue.

Remember the dash gauge is oil though, not coolant temp. It's also more of a dummy gauge and should not be considered accurated or used for good reference.
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      05-19-2014, 01:52 PM   #14
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Its pretty accurate. Or rather consistent and it still shouldn't be running that hot or over heating. It uses a true temp sensor integrated with oil level sensor . But when oil too hot, coolant is too hot and vice versa. So its an indicator there is a problem for sure. If you take top off coolant reservoir, max out great and let car run you don't need to open bleeder screw as the ultimate bleeder screw is havingctgexresdvoir top removed
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      05-25-2014, 09:20 PM   #15
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I did the recommended ideas listed above. Today was only in the low to mid 60s and oil temp was still creeping ever so close to that 3rd to last dot. Driving with no AC on as well. Keep in mind I drive this car hard as any of us would. I rarely put it in 5th gear or even 6th unless its a long road trip or I have a lady friend in the car.
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      05-26-2014, 12:13 AM   #16
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Without being in the car with you and seeing how you drive its hard to say if you have a problem or not.

Did you install your SC kit yourself? What mix are you using in your coolant systems (SC and Engine)? Pure distilled water at one extreme and then pure coolant on the other. For the summer I would lean towards a heavier distilled water mix.

How close to your oil cooler is your heat exchanger? Have you checked under the car to make sure you did not suck up a plastic bag or something. There is the front opening for the oil coolers ect... and also a vent under the car just behind the oil cooler. I would check and make sure both are completely clear. Your cooler could be packed with debris. Or if your ESS cooler is packed with debris it could be preventing air from getting to the oil cooler and radiator since the heat exchanger sits in front of the oil cooler.

Have you considered just driving normally and seeing what the temps do? For example, where does the temp sit while driving down the highway at 70?

My coolant temp rises noticeably when I get on the throttle.... which is normal or when I drive hard.
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      05-26-2014, 12:29 AM   #17
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I drive hard too but if your rarely above 4th that prob explains it. I take off and accelerate but it gets into 7th and between runs its spends time there.

But if you are not driving that hard and its shooting up there than that's not right as I need to beat snot in dead summer to get it there although I'm NA. Check air filter. Check all the front bumper holes to air intake and tranny cooler and check to see if you somehow installed something where its blocking oil cooler or the oil cooler has too much debree
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      05-31-2014, 02:37 PM   #18
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Hey all,

I have tired the scenario with regard to holding the throttle at 4K RPM with coolant lid off. At first I noticed no coolant was spitting out. After a few attempts it started spraying everywhere. I believe this may be a good sign as there was possibly blockage and this causing the temps to be so high even at regular driving speeds.

Taking her for a ride today to find out! Wish me luck!!
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      06-01-2014, 10:24 AM   #19
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New product just released seems pretty awesome and solves the issue of bleeding air out of the system: http://www.ecstuning.com/News/Univer...012_2013_2014/
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      06-01-2014, 12:44 PM   #20
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Dies this fit our cars? This would be the most awesome tool change coolant every 25k
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      06-01-2014, 01:00 PM   #21
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Sorry to hear. Def not normal. I have only seen oil temps that high on a 90+ degree track day pushing the car hard. In daily drive conditions, it's rock solid at 210 no matter what.

It's a tough issue to chase, but some good advice here. and I hope you get it figured out soon.
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      06-01-2014, 05:42 PM   #22
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Hey all,

So had the car out the last two days. Definitely seems to be running a little stronger than before. Up in MA we have had about 60-70 degree temps. At 52 degrees and pulling hard (I never red line and usual upshift at 6500-7000 RPM if driving aggressively) oil temps are good. Slightly past 210.

Now during the day and warmer temps. I'm consistently on the upper end between 210 and that 250-255 degree dash.

No AC on either. Definitely a very odd thing cause everything is running very well. Like I said car is pulling a lot harder. But the same issue is happening.

Well a little birdie by the name of ROMAN, told me an oil cooler from ESS is coming out soon!!!

Hey a few degrees and yes it's an expensive part, is totally worth it in my mind at this point.

Just worried about long term. Owned this car for 4 years and almost 50k miles. I love this car every time I sit in it. Yes there are some amazing cars out there, but to me and the mods and the time spent with this car just hits my soul that ill do whatever it takes to fix this!!! Haha

Thanks again all.
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