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      12-31-2013, 04:15 PM   #1
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Tons of fault codes

I started my car a week ago and it threw a fit going into limp mode. After a few restarts, it cleared and I could drive. The next day, it gave me some edc malfunction on the idrive and that's it.

I pulled the codes today after getting my laptop back and attached them. Searching has pointed towards the throttle actuators. I'm posting from my phone so I apologize in advanced if the photos are too big.
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      12-31-2013, 06:46 PM   #2
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I would say that your throttle actuator went bad, or that you have a battery/voltage issue.

You can always bring it by for us to take a look.
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      12-31-2013, 07:52 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Benvo View Post
I would say that your throttle actuator went bad, or that you have a battery/voltage issue.

You can always bring it by for us to take a look.
Thanks Mike, but in the meantime is there any way to determine which one it could be? My car has a 12/09 build date.
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      12-31-2013, 07:53 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C|3R1C
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Benvo View Post
I would say that your throttle actuator went bad, or that you have a battery/voltage issue.

You can always bring it by for us to take a look.
Thanks Mike, but in the meantime is there any way to determine which one it could be? My car has a 12/09 build date.
If battery voltage is correct with the car on and off, it's likely the throttle actuator (in reference to the engine related faults). First thing to check is voltage/charging system as issues here will cause tons of sporadic faults across multiple modules.
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      12-31-2013, 07:57 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Benvo View Post
If battery voltage is correct with the car on and off, it's likely the throttle actuator (in reference to the engine related faults). First thing to check is voltage/charging system as issues here will cause tons of sporadic faults across multiple modules.
What should the correct voltages be? And what is the best way to measure it?
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      12-31-2013, 07:58 PM   #6
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With a multimeter.

With car completely off you want to see 12.2 minimum.

With car started 13.7 minimum.
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      01-08-2014, 04:00 PM   #7
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2728 - P2297, Post-13
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      01-08-2014, 04:05 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by regular guy View Post
2728 - P2297, Post-13
2729 - P2298, Post-9
CDC0 - U1153, Post-14
2B57 P1605, Post-4
2B21 - P1628, Post-15
2B35 - P0301, Post-16

Wow, you are amazing!
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      01-08-2014, 11:59 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by regular guy
2728 - P2297, Post-13
2729 - P2298, Post-9
CDC0 - U1153, Post-14
2B57 P1605, Post-4
2B21 - P1628, Post-15
2B35 - P0301, Post-16
Wow thanks man! Thats damn specific.
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      01-09-2014, 08:35 AM   #10
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Keep in mind that voltage delivery issues with the car can cause those throttle actuator errors. The pre drive check that is performed at ignition on (prior to start) opens each actuator fully then closes it to check for full range. The electronics controlling the actuator monitor the current required to move the motor and stores them to develop a curve of current vs. position. The actuator will report back to the DME if the integral of the current curve is abnormally high or low. This is what is done on the "pre-drive check" and a more throrough test performed using ISTA.

Any deviations in system voltage will skew that current curve and could cause the actuator to sell itself out to the DME.

Given the multiple seemingly random modules storing codes, I would have the battery and alternator checked as recommended above.

Once all the other errors are cleared, then go for the throttle actuators. The moajority of throttle actuator failures are mechanical in nature, so to see them lumped in with a bunch of other electrical ones seems suspicious.
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      01-09-2014, 10:38 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcolley
Keep in mind that voltage delivery issues with the car can cause those throttle actuator errors. The pre drive check that is performed at ignition on (prior to start) opens each actuator fully then closes it to check for full range. The electronics controlling the actuator monitor the current required to move the motor and stores them to develop a curve of current vs. position. The actuator will report back to the DME if the integral of the current curve is abnormally high or low. This is what is done on the "pre-drive check" and a more throrough test performed using ISTA.

Any deviations in system voltage will skew that current curve and could cause the actuator to sell itself out to the DME.

Given the multiple seemingly random modules storing codes, I would have the battery and alternator checked as recommended above.

Once all the other errors are cleared, then go for the throttle actuators. The moajority of throttle actuator failures are mechanical in nature, so to see them lumped in with a bunch of other electrical ones seems suspicious.
Thank you for your reply. I do think my battery is going out the window. I hooked it up to a charger and charged it up and that got rid of the other codes. The only one remaining is a misfire in cyl 1.

Last night I tried to start to car but it went straight into limp mode. First thing I did was change back to stock software. Still went into limp mode. Since the only code was a misfire in cyl 1, I trouble shooted it by swapping cyl 1 & 2 coils. Still misfire in cyl 1. I changed the plug with a new one. Same code. Also for each step I cleared the codes to see what would show up. Any ideas? Also I still get an edc error on the idrive.
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      01-12-2014, 09:10 PM   #12
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throttle actuator

I actually had similar problem couple months ago...Reduced engine power, Drive train malfunction, etc... 5 different warning lights with my car in limp mode...and some misfirings...

Went to the dealer and they first diagnosed 2 problems.
1. Battery
2. Throttle sensor (hall sensor) in bank 2

They quoted $600 for battery replacement and coding, and $1000 for replacing throttle sensor ($150 part $850 for 4 hours of labor).

My warranty expired last August so I was very disappointed to find out others saying 'wait til warranty expires'. It seems like BMW coded auto break down after warranty expires...haha

Anyways, they have replaced my battery twice before so it was still under warranty and service advisor told me that there is going to be a recall on the batter so they just recharged it.

And to save some bucks, I bought the part online for $80 and took it to local shop. They were able to replace the part in hour and a half!!! (BMW was asking for 4 hours of labor??!!!)

But the problem was that warning lights were still on and car was still in limp mode...then they found out it was not the sensor but the throttle actuator that was malfunctioning. So basically I had to pay $1500 to replace the part ($1000 part, $500 labor)

Anyways, I'm hoping this won't happen on the other bank now that my warranty expired. And I think it would be wise to buy extended warranty.

And I just read in other post that throttle actuator may be under warranty for 7 years in CA. So it may be wise to check with your dealer.
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