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      11-03-2016, 12:54 AM   #1
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Stoptech ST60 bridge screw stripped.

I was changing out the pads before an even and one of the long screws for the bridge just kept spinning after getting a little tight.

Has this happened to anymore else? Apparently they come in 32 or 35mm lengths. How do you know which one to get? It looks like the rear ST40 screws are a little shorter but I never compared them side to side.

I may just change them all out since they're pretty rough looking but need to know which ones to get.
Thanks for any help.
.
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      11-03-2016, 01:15 AM   #2
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St60 front should be 35mm and st40 should be 32mm. Buy the washers too.
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      11-03-2016, 11:02 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msan View Post
St60 front should be 35mm and st40 should be 32mm. Buy the washers too.
Thanks. I don't have to worry about the rotor thickness?
The shop asked me what thickness my rotors were, but I was thinking along the lines you stated above; 35mm for ST69 and ST40 for the shorter screws.
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      11-04-2016, 12:41 AM   #4
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rotor thickness are 35mm front and 32mm rear on a st60/40 kit for e9x m3
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      11-17-2016, 05:29 PM   #5
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Call Dave Z. @ Zechausen Racing, he is the authority on Brakes. He will get you what you need, and he is a great guy!
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      11-19-2016, 09:04 AM   #6
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Is only the bolt stripped, or did you mess up the threads in the caliper? Better chase the threads in the caliper with a tap.
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      11-19-2016, 12:17 PM   #7
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I used another screw and it worked fine, and the bad screw didn't work in a different location. I was worried about that too. Got lucky this time.
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      11-19-2016, 01:10 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aus View Post
I was changing out the pads before an even and one of the long screws for the bridge just kept spinning after getting a little tight.

Has this happened to anymore else? Apparently they come in 32 or 35mm lengths. How do you know which one to get? It looks like the rear ST40 screws are a little shorter but I never compared them side to side.

I may just change them all out since they're pretty rough looking but need to know which ones to get.
Thanks for any help.
.

Zeckhausen sells replacements -- just call and tell him what kit you have, he'll set you up. I think they're like $5 each. I find there is sort of a trick to getting them threaded and them tightened correctly: you have to wiggle the bridge back and forth while you get the bolts started.

The bolts are soft as shit and it's really annoying. Even with the correct hex head, I have almost stripped one of them completely from just two removals. I ordered a bunch of spare bolts since I know they probably won't last long.
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      11-20-2016, 01:50 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dparm View Post
Zeckhausen sells replacements -- just call and tell him what kit you have, he'll set you up. I think they're like $5 each. I find there is sort of a trick to getting them threaded and them tightened correctly: you have to wiggle the bridge back and forth while you get the bolts started.

The bolts are soft as shit and it's really annoying. Even with the correct hex head, I have almost stripped one of them completely from just two removals. I ordered a bunch of spare bolts since I know they probably won't last long.
Thanks bud. It's a bitch sometimes to get them threaded. I'll try the wiggle next time.
I'm guessing they made the bolts soft so you don't strip the caliper.
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      11-20-2016, 01:55 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aus View Post
Thanks bud. It's a bitch sometimes to get them threaded. I'll try the wiggle next time.
I'm guessing they made the bolts soft so you don't strip the caliper.
.
It's tricky on the ST40, and I assume it's even worse on the ST60. I think part of it comes down to the manufacturing tolerance on the pads. I noticed that the pads that came with the kit didn't even go to the edge of the friction surface so the fitment into the caliper was really good. When installing the DS2500 pads, which do go all the way to the edge of the disc, I had to keep tapping them with a dead blow hammer and it still was not perfect.

I would also advise buying a small torque wrench. There is a published torque spec for those bolts in the instructions.
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      11-20-2016, 08:25 PM   #11
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The ST40 are a piece of cake compared to the ST60.

Great, now I'll end up getting another torque wrench and have to find the spec.
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      11-26-2016, 08:50 AM   #12
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The tolerances can vary in the pads but i've noticed a variation in the paint finish thickness as well.

I Have a trophy kit in my track car and I get minimal binding from the bridges or from the pad seat areas.

On the painted kit on my F80 there was initially a lot.

I sanded down the flat surfaces on the bridge that interacted with the caliper and a little bit on the inside of the caliper. I have no issue with pads or the bridge needing an extra influence to get into the caliper. If you're changing pads often this saves a lot of time and effort.

The caliper threads are steel time serts secured by red loctite. You don't really want to strip them out as replacing them is a bitch.
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      11-26-2016, 08:55 AM   #13
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Stoptech says 8-10 ft pounds but also says not to use a torque wrench.
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      11-26-2016, 01:04 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterP View Post
Stoptech says 8-10 ft pounds but also says not to use a torque wrench.
Huh, good to know.
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      11-27-2016, 02:05 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterP View Post
Stoptech says 8-10 ft pounds but also says not to use a torque wrench.
Great pic! But #1 is the one that I have a BITCH of a time getting in. Guess I'll have to sand the edges down a little.
Thanks Again.
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      11-27-2016, 08:18 PM   #16
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The bridge bolt holes are timecerted so its a pretty simple replacement if needed.

I always put some anti-seize on threads to prevent this from happening. And just snug up those bolts.
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      11-27-2016, 09:25 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
The bridge bolt holes are timecerted so its a pretty simple replacement if needed.

I always put some anti-seize on threads to prevent this from happening. And just snug up those bolts.

StopTech says you should not put anti-seize on them.
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      11-29-2016, 10:59 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dparm View Post
StopTech says you should not put anti-seize on them.
The install manual says to put a light coat on. I don't see why anti-sieze would hurt. There is tension on the bridge so the bolts shouldn't ever back out even if you installed hand tight.
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      12-07-2016, 01:32 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjae1976 View Post
The install manual says to put a light coat on. I don't see why anti-sieze would hurt. There is tension on the bridge so the bolts shouldn't ever back out even if you installed hand tight.
A good idea and practice to prevent galling.
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      12-19-2016, 07:25 PM   #20
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If you're really struggling you can start up your car and put someone in the driver seat to apply the brakes. It will ever so slightly stretch the caliper and you can thread them very easily.

I was struggling with threading during my initial install and called stoptech. This was their suggestion and it worked like a charm.
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      12-19-2016, 07:55 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dparm View Post
StopTech says you should not put anti-seize on them.

That literature above from Stoptech a few posts up seems to contradict that....
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      12-19-2016, 09:26 PM   #22
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Quote:
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That literature above from Stoptech a few posts up seems to contradict that....
Yes, my mistake.
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