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      10-31-2013, 02:46 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by alofoque View Post
I'm pretty dumped front and rear on my Ohlins. Not tucked but no gap front or rear on Square ZCP with 275/30 V12's with a 15mm spacer in the rear. I'll be switching the rear spacer with a 12 just to see if I can get rid of the rubbing. Other than some of the rubbing which is due to stance preference the Ohlins are worth every penny. I went from stock EDC to KW sleeves to Ohlins. Stock is stock so in the comfort area it cannot be beat specially with EDC but the closest you'll get to oem like comfort while drastically improving handling is with Ohlins.
WOW that is dumped , gives me a good idea as to what is possible... Saving up for these and will have installed in November, soooo looking forward to it!!
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      10-31-2013, 02:55 PM   #24
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And their is still some room I believe. When your ready hit up the guys at ACM although not local to you but they have done several installs and Sal has them on his car. I'm sure they can get ya a smoking deal.
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      10-31-2013, 03:12 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex-R-1 View Post
Guys, I need something to do with the height of the suspension? or visually all good?
It seems to me or front above the rear?
I think your car and the ride height both look fantastic. No need to change your ride-height IMO.
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      10-31-2013, 03:47 PM   #26
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how do they look with 18s on? Are these recommendations based on wheel size or just performance regarding any setup.....I would think with a smaller wheel, it would be slight changed no?
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      10-31-2013, 05:05 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slicer View Post
I think your car and the ride height both look fantastic. No need to change your ride-height IMO.
Thanks!
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      10-31-2013, 05:06 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by pkim1079 View Post
how do they look with 18s on? Are these recommendations based on wheel size or just performance regarding any setup.....I would think with a smaller wheel, it would be slight changed no?
May be! But I use 19 rims! And in the instructions for installing the Ohlins does not have written what wheels use for their settings.
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      10-31-2013, 05:14 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex-R-1
Quote:
Originally Posted by pkim1079 View Post
how do they look with 18s on? Are these recommendations based on wheel size or just performance regarding any setup.....I would think with a smaller wheel, it would be slight changed no?
May be! But I use 19 rims! And in the instructions for installing the Ohlins does not have written what wheels use for their settings.
Got it. Just want to see how it looks if anyone has a setup whether switching to 18s on the track (main concern performance) and looks (main concern to look proper) if going 18s on the street!!
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      10-31-2013, 05:16 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sal@AUTOcouture
I found the suggested to be a bit too high, so lowered accordingly. Coming from KW Clubsport, I had high expectations and the R/T really surpassed them! 5 track days on them already and I love them more and more
Better than kw cs?

Need more info!!

These can be the solution to keeping up with my buddies (more confidence than cars performance)
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      11-02-2013, 10:31 AM   #31
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The instructions for the recommended setup are 20mm lower than stock
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      11-05-2013, 07:21 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dead ringer View Post
Think i have decided to drop the car with the Ohlins R/T. Someone posted they come with a recommended setting, but how low is it? Can anyone post some pictures. Also I have TE37's that are 9.5 wide with 265 wide AD08's, how low can I go and should I pick up some camber plates?
I don't recommend going beyond the recommended settings by 10-20mm as you will start to run out of compression travel and away from an ideal suspension and steering geometry.
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      11-05-2013, 07:27 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlp View Post
I found the recommended settings to be tad too high as well and lowered it slightly. Also shortened the rear shock to take in any of the slack due to a shortened spring length.

What clicker settings are you guys current running? I'm running 10 F/R for the street and 5 F/R for the track.
Depends on the track. I'm running them at 1 click at Laguna Seca. I run at 5 on the street.
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      11-05-2013, 07:28 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autosport View Post
I don't recommend going beyond the recommended settings by 10-20mm as you will start to run out of compression travel and away from an ideal suspension and steering geometry.
Unfortunately, most people don't care about that here. They want a fancy brand suspension setup and the slammed look. RESPECT.
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      11-05-2013, 07:37 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radiantm3 View Post
Unfortunately, most people don't care about that here. They want a fancy brand suspension setup and the slammed look. RESPECT.
Well, in that case, drop it all the way down until the damper body comes in contact with the bump stop!
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      11-05-2013, 08:01 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autosport View Post
I don't recommend going beyond the recommended settings by 10-20mm as you will start to run out of compression travel and away from an ideal suspension and steering geometry.
What do you mean run out of travel? Because you will start bottoming out on parts of the car?

When you lower with ohlins the overall travel remains the same.
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      11-05-2013, 08:04 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W Cole View Post
What do you mean run out of travel? Because you will start bottoming out on parts of the car?

When you lower with ohlins the overall travel remains the same.
That only applies to the front and not the rear. And you may have other parts making contact from excessive lowering. Plus geometry is still lost.
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      11-05-2013, 08:45 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autosport View Post
That only applies to the front and not the rear. And you may have other parts making contact from excessive lowering. Plus geometry is still lost.
You're not supposed to shorten the shock in the rear if you lower the car? I haven't on mine but I only lowered it a turn or so.
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      11-06-2013, 10:29 PM   #39
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You're not supposed to shorten the shock in the rear if you lower the car? I haven't on mine but I only lowered it a turn or so.
Anyone? I actually called Ohlins USA and asked them about shortening the rear shock when lowering. Their answer was, "the rear shock length is not adjustable" when clearly it is..
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      11-07-2013, 12:19 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W Cole View Post
Anyone? I actually called Ohlins USA and asked them about shortening the rear shock when lowering. Their answer was, "the rear shock length is not adjustable" when clearly it is..
The manual clearly refers to a length adjuster on the rear shock. Now if you only adjust the length of the rear shock, without doing anything to the spring preload adjuster, you won't be altering ride height at all. Unlike in the front. I am no suspension expert...
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      11-07-2013, 01:27 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W Cole View Post
Anyone? I actually called Ohlins USA and asked them about shortening the rear shock when lowering. Their answer was, "the rear shock length is not adjustable" when clearly it is..
The rear system is not a true coilover. Therefore if you shorten the length of the spring to create more drop you may have to shorten the length of the shock to maintain a small about of preload on the spring so that it says in the perch/collars when the rear wheel is complete unsprung. If you raise up the rear of car (both sides) and the springs are completely loose they may become unseated. There should be enough tension/preload on the springs so that it says put. As mentioned, because the rear system is not a c/o it will not impact the ride height at all. Its very easy to do and you don't even have to remove the shock to adjust the length. Seems like common sense to me.
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      11-07-2013, 11:11 AM   #42
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Quote:
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The rear system is not a true coilover. Therefore if you shorten the length of the spring to create more drop you may have to shorten the length of the shock to maintain a small about of preload on the spring so that it says in the perch/collars when the rear wheel is complete unsprung. If you raise up the rear of car (both sides) and the springs are completely loose they may become unseated. There should be enough tension/preload on the springs so that it says put. As mentioned, because the rear system is not a c/o it will not impact the ride height at all. Its very easy to do and you don't even have to remove the shock to adjust the length. Seems like common sense to me.
This is good stuff for suspension newbs like me, where I have no clue what "common sense" is.

So what you're saying is, if i wanted to say raise the rear height from the recommended settings, if I did it by just trying to lengthen the length of the shock, it would not affect ride height at all because it's not a coilover (like the front is). To truly adjust the rear height, I would have to adjust the spring preload adjuster (recommended is 37mm, let's say I change to 42mm or +5mm), and then adjust the length of the shock about +5mm as well to have the desired final rear ride height adjustment effect (+5mm). I'm assuming this would maintain approx the same spring preload as recommended settings? Or would I even need to adjust the length of the shock in this case? Could I adjust the spring perch to 42mm or +5mm and leave the shock as is which would seem to create more spring preload? Or is it wiser to always adjust both the spring perch and the shock length in tandem to maintain the same spring preload?

Thanks for helping us newbs.
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      11-07-2013, 01:20 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dans///m3 View Post
This is good stuff for suspension newbs like me, where I have no clue what "common sense" is.

So what you're saying is, if i wanted to say raise the rear height from the recommended settings, if I did it by just trying to lengthen the length of the shock, it would not affect ride height at all because it's not a coilover (like the front is). To truly adjust the rear height, I would have to adjust the spring preload adjuster (recommended is 37mm, let's say I change to 42mm or +5mm), and then adjust the length of the shock about +5mm as well to have the desired final rear ride height adjustment effect (+5mm). I'm assuming this would maintain approx the same spring preload as recommended settings? Or would I even need to adjust the length of the shock in this case? Could I adjust the spring perch to 42mm or +5mm and leave the shock as is which would seem to create more spring preload? Or is it wiser to always adjust both the spring perch and the shock length in tandem to maintain the same spring preload?

Thanks for helping us newbs.

As it pertains to the rear. Altering the length spring affects the ride height. Altering the length of the shock affects the range of motion when the shock is fully extended. Because of the geometry of the suspension components i.e. 5mm on the spring my not translate to 5mm on the shock. I wouldn't deviate lot from the recommended settings. I just went down a tad. I used the suggested setting in rear at first and I could feel the pre-load on the spring by tugging and twisting on it. When I lowered the ride height I lowered the shock to the same preload "Feel" that it had with the suggested settings. Not rocket science
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      11-07-2013, 02:01 PM   #44
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If just install a rear +5 mm (42 mm instead of the 37 mm) and have nothing else to do. This greatly affect management?!
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