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      09-21-2013, 10:07 PM   #1
ccondo
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Question Need my 4th set of rotors in 1.5 yrs!

I just did 1 day of a 2 day track event and skipped the last run group. 1/2 way through I started to get shake in my steering wheel when I brake hard.

I am on my 3rd set of rotors already and this set it only about 4 months old.

I spoke with people at the track and I was told things like maybe a rotor is getting stuck as well as I was told that if I use the breaks after the cool-off lap and hold them that might be causing the issue as well.

So any feedback or ideas on how this is happening would be appreciated.

Also since I very well might be purchasing a new set of front rotors I was hoping for some advice on what to purchase. I was thinking of OEM rotors with Pagid Dark Blue pads, Stop Tech brake lines, and Motul brake fluid.

I was planning on keeping the rear stock. ANy feedback is appreciated.
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      09-22-2013, 12:02 AM   #2
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If you are tracking a lot, as Lute said. If you are I assume you aren't applying your handbrake in between sessions? If you are, don't.

If you aren't tracking much then you have a problem and should go see your dealer.
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      09-22-2013, 12:11 AM   #3
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get BBK
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      09-22-2013, 12:14 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lute View Post
Upgrade to a big brake kit
x1000000000000000
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      09-22-2013, 12:49 AM   #5
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After every track session I needed to get the stock rotors done as they would vibrate. Just got sick of that and got a BBK (StopTech 380/365 cross drilled rotors). I run street pads on the ST BBK and it's more than enough for the track. Have never had any vibration even after a 100 degree track day at Big Willow (fastest track out West) beating the snot out of the brakes.

So yeah, another vote for a BBK.
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      09-22-2013, 01:59 AM   #6
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I had the same issue even after upgrading lines, pads, and fluid.
The stock brakes get extremely hot when pushed to the limit.
One day my front wheel actually caught on fire! After replacing the
rotors once and then the same thing happening again I said F it and
went for the BBK. So much more stopping power and they never
even break a sweat. If your tracking hard BBK really is worth it...

~Axis
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      09-22-2013, 08:48 AM   #7
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Did you bed the brakes as described here? If not, your rotors may wear very fast, especially, when you use them on track. This would apply as well, if you get new rotors...

It sounds as if you are using the stock brakes on track events. If you take that seriously, you should at least use the M3 race pads from BMW, which have less wear (and squeal like a pig in day-to-day driving).
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      09-22-2013, 09:17 AM   #8
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Driver fail.
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      09-22-2013, 01:19 PM   #9
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BBK
Do not put handbrake up (our cars go into park once turned off, not like SMG M5)
Bed your brakes in, worst thing you can do is put a new set on and go straight to the track.
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      09-22-2013, 01:24 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW Fanatic
BBK
Do not put handbrake up (our cars go into park once turned off, not like SMG M5)
Bed your brakes in, worst thing you can do is put a new set on and go straight to the track.
If manual, just put it in gear when parked
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      09-22-2013, 01:40 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chill72 View Post
Driver fail.
+1, what are you saying, that you ran your rotors to minimum in 2 track days, warped them? the shake you feel is pad deposits. your rotors are fine. i didnt pass a tech inspection mine were so bad and just ran track pads on them and shake went away and used them all the way to minimum thickness. as others have said dont use your handbrake in the pits, you must do a cool down lap, and i add extra time driving around the pits if needed to cool further.
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Last edited by 1MOREMOD; 09-22-2013 at 03:06 PM.
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      09-22-2013, 01:50 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD View Post
+1, what are you saying, that you ran your rotors to minimum in 2 track days, warped them? the shake you feel is pad deposits. your rotors are fine. i didnt pass a tech inspection mine were so bad and just ran track pads on them and shake went away and used them all the way to minimum thickness. as others have said to use your handbrake in the pits, you must do a cool down lap, and i add extra time driving around the pits if needed to cool further.
Hopefully for op it is pad deposit...but quite often it's not. I was hoping my vibrations from tracking on stock brakes were due to pad deposits but they ended up being from warped rotors each time. Only time they didn't warp from a track day was when I was at a slower/tight track on a cool day. They're nice brakes for the street, but just can't handle sustained track usage IMHO.
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      09-22-2013, 01:55 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Longboarder View Post
Hopefully for op it is pad deposit...but quite often it's not. I was hoping my vibrations from tracking on stock brakes were due to pad deposits but they ended up being from warped rotors each time. Only time they didn't warp from a track day was when I was at a slower/tight track on a cool day. They're nice brakes for the street, but just can't handle sustained track usage IMHO.
i am of the opinion that there is no such thing as a warped rotor at least not on these very capable units on the m3. i was told by bmw and an independant shop that they were warped when in fact it was just really bad pad deposits. i proceeded to run a set of track pads for a short time and they were fine. if the people working on our cars cant tell the difference it no wonder owners cant. i had extreme shudder under braking, made it feel like the car was going to fall apart. they said it was the worst warped rotors they had seen. still were wrong.
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      09-22-2013, 02:11 PM   #14
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If you can not afford a BBK I highly suggest cryo-treating whatever rotors you choose. This will improve the life of your rotors exponentionally
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      09-22-2013, 02:26 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Longboarder View Post
Hopefully for op it is pad deposit...but quite often it's not. I was hoping my vibrations from tracking on stock brakes were due to pad deposits but they ended up being from warped rotors each time. Only time they didn't warp from a track day was when I was at a slower/tight track on a cool day. They're nice brakes for the street, but just can't handle sustained track usage IMHO.
Stock rotors are just fine for DE's. What you need are some real track pads.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD View Post
i am of the opinion that there is no such thing as a warped rotor at least not on these very capable units on the m3. i was told by bmw and an independant shop that they were warped when in fact it was just really bad pad deposits. i proceeded to run a set of track pads for a short time and they were fine. if the people working on our cars cant tell the difference it no wonder owners cant. i had extreme shudder under braking, made it feel like the car was going to fall apart. they said it was the worst warped rotors they had seen. still were wrong.
Listen to this man. I had the same experience, a few times, and track pads for a week weeks and things cleared right up.

Use the right track pads, with plenty of meat on them and your system will hold up great.

No need for BBK. But if you makes you feel better, go for it. If you were using stock brake pads, thats your problem.
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      09-22-2013, 03:11 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LightWerkz View Post
Stock rotors are just fine for DE's. What you need are some real track pads.




Listen to this man. I had the same experience, a few times, and track pads for a week weeks and things cleared right up.

Use the right track pads, with plenty of meat on them and your system will hold up great.

No need for BBK. But if you makes you feel better, go for it. If you were using stock brake pads, thats your problem.
Thank you. I ran stock the entire time I had the e90. Now on my e46 I went with bbk. Stock with proper pads and fluid work nearly as well. Have to be a little more careful to manage temps is all. Now I just put more heat into the brakes because I use them harder and boiled my fluid, were stock I didn't.
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      09-22-2013, 04:07 PM   #17
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Performance Friction Direct Drive rotors are supposed to be a little better, but unfortunately there is no hard data on that. Due to their construction, they are supposed to be less prone to warping, but who knows. The stock rotors are quite good, but in my lame opinion the aluminum hat covers too much from the cooling vanes of the rotor. If you look on the back side of your rotor, you will see what I mean.
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      09-22-2013, 04:08 PM   #18
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Sure hope OP didn't pay for 4 sets of rotors as well. My e46 needed rotors so that's why I got the bbk. No sense paying for parts I don't want anyways.
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      09-22-2013, 04:32 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD View Post
i am of the opinion that there is no such thing as a warped rotor at least not on these very capable units on the m3. i was told by bmw and an independant shop that they were warped when in fact it was just really bad pad deposits. i proceeded to run a set of track pads for a short time and they were fine. if the people working on our cars cant tell the difference it no wonder owners cant. i had extreme shudder under braking, made it feel like the car was going to fall apart. they said it was the worst warped rotors they had seen. still were wrong.
Interesting. The guy that does my brakes tracks his e92 M3. He knows the difference thankfully. He even said, "lets see if it's pad deposits or whether its warped" (each time). I'm an outlier because I need more brake pressure to slow down as I attain higher speeds but need to slow down more than most due to the S/C with stock suspension.
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      09-22-2013, 04:38 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Longboarder View Post
Interesting. The guy that does my brakes tracks his e92 M3. He knows the difference thankfully. He even said, "lets see if it's pad deposits or whether its warped" (each time). I'm an outlier because I need more brake pressure to slow down as I attain higher speeds but need to slow down more than most due to the S/C with stock suspension.
most people even your guy probably are smart enough to not track the e9x with stock pads. thus they have never experienced the level of pad deposits that they are capable of generating. i however was an idiot and ran my stock pads past the point they should have been used and created a mess. when you measure them they will appear warped, only way to truely tell is to run the crap out of them with a track pad to clean them up.
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      09-22-2013, 04:45 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LightWerkz View Post
No need for BBK. But if you makes you feel better, go for it. If you were using stock brake pads, thats your problem.
No need for a BBK huh?

Go toss an S/C on your car, reach 155mph on the back straights of your track and brake hard (really hard) on a hot day. Then couple that with a downhill braking at 100+ and a couple other hard braking zones mixed in for fun. Then do that 15 times around the track.

When your stock brakes (even with upgraded pads) start vibrating and then your brake pedal hits the floor at ~ 120mph and you need to downshift hard and pull the ebrake to avoid going off the track into a pile of boulders you will find out real quickly the need for a BBK.
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      09-22-2013, 04:48 PM   #22
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Images of my front drivers rotor

I am starting to wonder if it is deposits as well.

I am trying to determine if I should get some Pagid Sport pads for track/street use and I am thinking if it is deposits those pads would get rid of the deposits.

Here are some pictures of what my rotors look like:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/caseyme...7635774625134/

This is after washing the car and I took a pressure washer (with a 40 degree head) to the rotors.
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