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      09-16-2013, 02:55 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by regular guy View Post
We should have answers on that real soon. The factory bearings I measured are being sent out next week for Calico Coating. When they get back, I will measure them again, and place them in some rods to measure clearance as well.
I wish VAC would post the specs of their coated bearings. Anyone have a set that they can measure?
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      09-16-2013, 03:05 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbraslins View Post
If I understand things correctly, most of us will not have the $ or access to the quality shop to properly set clearance. That leaves us with simply replacing bearings to prolong the engines lifespan.

At what interval would you recommend one to do it? 50K? 75K?

Does the risk of failure (not doing anything) outweigh the risk of opening the motor and changing bearings? I assume there's always risk doing something like that.

Thanks.
I am shooting for 60k. I know a few other guys going to 75k but it is pure owners choice.
There is always a risk of openiong it up but if someone knows what they are doing there really is no risk IMHO. To me not doing anything will eventually lead to a failure at some point. Some say well if it blows up at 125k then that was just all it had. I disagree with that stance though.
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      09-16-2013, 03:08 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kawasaki00 View Post
I am shooting for 60k. I know a few other guys going to 75k but it is pure owners choice.
There is always a risk of openiong it up but if someone knows what they are doing there really is no risk IMHO. To me not doing anything will eventually lead to a failure at some point. Some say well if it blows up at 125k then that was just all it had. I disagree with that stance though.
Thank you.

Do you recommend running 0w40 too? Is 0w40 safe for track usage?
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      09-16-2013, 04:34 PM   #48
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Just went through our records and both 2011's we replaced bearings on have the part number ending in 088 and 703.. odd
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      09-16-2013, 04:59 PM   #49
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If the only difference between red and blue is the .00015" thickness, why are the blues nearly double the price of reds?
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      09-16-2013, 10:18 PM   #50
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Keep posting! I don't see any issues with learning more about this issue (both viewpoints) and formulating my own conclusion. I am sure more will be learned going forward and that can benefit all of us.
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      09-17-2013, 03:20 AM   #51
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Awesome posts and info gents.
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      09-17-2013, 05:05 AM   #52
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Definitely keep the posts coming. Surprising we are still learning this much on an engine that saw the last roll off the assembly line. It would also be good to know the effect of cold start delete that comes with some tune and frequency of oil change (some of us are ocd, like after 4th track days or 3k mile on a car with tune) on this bearing issue as well. Also since the weight of the oil is a potential issue, should we start tracking bearing failure and brand of oil(same 10-60) used in those engines as it turns out, many use redline, motel, liqui-moly since they are marketed wheel. Again, your posts are always appreciated.
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      09-17-2013, 06:14 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kawasaki00 View Post
I am shooting for 60k. I know a few other guys going to 75k but it is pure owners choice.
There is always a risk of openiong it up but if someone knows what they are doing there really is no risk IMHO. To me not doing anything will eventually lead to a failure at some point. Some say well if it blows up at 125k then that was just all it had. I disagree with that stance though.
You want to do the work on mine in a couple years when I hit 70k? Your local with is good. On a side note we should get up for a drive soon. You know of any good roads that are not in western SC/NC/GA?
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      09-17-2013, 06:55 AM   #54
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      09-17-2013, 09:00 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lsmkr01 View Post
You want to do the work on mine in a couple years when I hit 70k? Your local with is good. On a side note we should get up for a drive soon. You know of any good roads that are not in western SC/NC/GA?
Probably be up for that. By that time I will have finished about 3 of them. Hit me up for a drive for sure. There are some nice roads southeast of CLT, cant really do anything around charlotte area though, too many pokies with laser guns. LOL
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      09-17-2013, 09:28 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbraslins View Post
Thank you.

Do you recommend running 0w40 too? Is 0w40 safe for track usage?
Kawasaki is running 0W40 on his car. IMHO, 0W40 should be robust enough for the track too. Guess it just depends what kind of temps you are currently seeing on 10W60.
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      09-17-2013, 09:36 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbraslins View Post
Thank you.

Do you recommend running 0w40 too? Is 0w40 safe for track usage?
Quote:
Originally Posted by W/// View Post
Kawasaki is running 0W40 on his car. IMHO, 0W40 should be robust enough for the track too. Guess it just depends what kind of temps you are currently seeing on 10W60.
I would only run the 0-40 is you have a oil pressure gauge. I have no data on what the pressure is doing at 280. It is not that the oil cant do it just need to be sure the oil pump can keep up.
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      09-17-2013, 10:56 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kawasaki00 View Post
I would only run the 0-40 is you have a oil pressure gauge. I have no data on what the pressure is doing at 280. It is not that the oil cant do it just need to be sure the oil pump can keep up.
Seems like a simple fix to just swap in 10W-60 for a track day.
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      09-17-2013, 11:49 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by regular guy View Post
We should have answers on that real soon. The factory bearings I measured are being sent out next week for Calico Coating. When they get back, I will measure them again, and place them in some rods to measure clearance as well.

My bearings were replaced with the VAC coated units a few months ago by Active Auto. They had advised that the clearances were the same as the OEM as they had a set to compare them to.

I'm also running Mobil 1 0W50 racing oil for the past few months. I'm also super charged with Active's current kit. The only thing I've noticed other than the engine RPMs being somewhat quicker and getting to temps faster is my oil gauge is all over the place. Sometimes it measures oil being full and then other times being half-way then a quarter. I've since replaced the oil gauge and it still happens, however it been more consistent with the readings.

I'm going to talk to Active about this and see what they say about this matter. Not sure if the "thinness" of the oil is impacting the reading of the oil level.

In addition, "Scrappy" the senior engine builder at Active who has built a few S65 motors told me that clearance is the issue with these engines and he's opened up a bunch and seen the same results we've been discussing. So BMWLVR/Kawas/RegularGuy are all on point as far as I'm concerned.

To each his own.
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      09-17-2013, 11:53 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbkr31 View Post
My bearings were replaced with the VAC coated units a few months ago by Active Auto. They had advised that the clearances were the same as the OEM as they had a set to compare them to.

I'm also running Mobil 1 0W50 racing oil for the past few months. I'm also super charged with Active's current kit. The only thing I've noticed other than the engine RPMs being somewhat quicker and getting to temps faster is my oil gauge is all over the place. Sometimes it measures oil being full and then other times being half-way then a quarter. I've since replaced the oil gauge and it still happens, however it been more consistent with the readings.

I'm going to talk to Active about this and see what they say about this matter. Not sure if the "thinness" of the oil is impacting the reading of the oil level.

In addition, "Scrappy" the senior engine builder at Active who has built a few S65 motors told me that clearance is the issue with these engines and he's opened up a bunch and seen the same results we've been discussing. So BMWLVR/Kawas/RegularGuy are all on point as far as I'm concerned.

To each his own.
Weird. I'm running even thinner 0W40 and my oil gauge is reading just one tick below max, and hasn't been fluctuating.
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      09-17-2013, 12:25 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by W/// View Post
Weird. I'm running even thinner 0W40 and my oil gauge is reading just one tick below max, and hasn't been fluctuating.
Mine is just as steady as before also. Maybe some other issue going on.
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      09-17-2013, 02:09 PM   #62
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Maybe VAC bearings with coating are causing oil gauge issue, and not the oil?
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      09-17-2013, 03:04 PM   #63
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Are you referring to the oe oil gauge? Or an aftermarket oil pressure gauge?

If its an aftermarket oil pressure gauge and its bouncing all over the place that could mean the bearings are bad again...
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      09-17-2013, 04:00 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PandaM3
Are you referring to the oe oil gauge? Or an aftermarket oil pressure gauge?

If its an aftermarket oil pressure gauge and its bouncing all over the place that could mean the bearings are bad again...
I'm referring to the OEM electronic oil gauge we all dislike. Like everyone else, I sure miss the old fashion dipstick.
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      09-17-2013, 04:23 PM   #65
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Keep posting, this is valuable information about a REAL issue. My bearings are well on their way to failing.
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      09-17-2013, 08:42 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kawasaki00 View Post
I would only run the 0-40 is you have a oil pressure gauge. I have no data on what the pressure is doing at 280. It is not that the oil cant do it just need to be sure the oil pump can keep up.
What should the pressure be at during idle? Operating temp under load?
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