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      09-08-2013, 05:32 PM   #23
JEllis
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wow! I thought I was anal!
I have it bad
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      09-08-2013, 09:45 PM   #24
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I think we all need to coordinate a cars and coffee so that the youngins like me can learn a thing or two from some vets like JEllis and Slicer.

I sure wish you were in San Diego this weekend, JEllis. The pulley install did not end well for my car.
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      09-08-2013, 09:46 PM   #25
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I think we all need to coordinate a cars and coffee so that the youngins like me can learn a thing or two from some vets like JEllis and Slicer.

I sure wish you were in San Diego this weekend, JEllis. The pulley install did not end well for my car.
What happened?
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      09-08-2013, 09:56 PM   #26
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Love reading stuff about your car, such a beast
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      09-08-2013, 10:07 PM   #27
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What happened?
Broke an accessory pulley just as we were about the get the belt on. The lip of the accessory pulley broke clean off. Did not realize they were plastic; I thought all the ribbed pulleys were alloy. I've waived the white flag and arranged a tow into the dealer tomorrow.
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      09-08-2013, 10:34 PM   #28
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Broke an accessory pulley just as we were about the get the belt on. The lip of the accessory pulley broke clean off. Did not realize they were plastic; I thought all the ribbed pulleys were alloy. I've waived the white flag and arranged a tow into the dealer tomorrow.
Wow. Yeah thats nuts that happened. Crazy that the new belt is that tight!
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      09-08-2013, 10:44 PM   #29
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Quote:
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Wow. Yeah thats nuts that happened. Crazy that the new belt is that tight!
Yup! That's a testament to belt tightness. Anyway, I'll try to make sure I don't start any jobs unless you're in town!

Sorry for the thread-jack. Back to your regularly scheduled programming . . .
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      09-10-2013, 02:25 PM   #30
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Just be careful when you thread it in. You can easily cross thread the plastic. Just lightly drop it in and take care when threading, it should thread on smoothly without effort.
Thanks for the advise, i need to place an order soon since i want to do a coolant flush soon.

Any tips on doing the coolant flush?
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      09-10-2013, 08:25 PM   #31
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Thanks for the advise, i need to place an order soon since i want to do a coolant flush soon.

Any tips on doing the coolant flush?
Yeah be ready with lots of towels. If you have an OE radiator it should be pretty straight forward. Your going to need access to the bottom of the radiator so make sure you get your car off the ground. At a minimum your also going to need to remove the under panels which will be a pain (lots of self tapping screws).

Get a big large mouth bucket or basin to catch all the coolant. I have heard quite a few people say you wont get all the coolant out. Thats true as the coolant in the block probably wont run out but it will get all the coolant out of the lines, tank and radiator. If you want to be real thorough you could drain the radiator. Fill the tank back up with distilled water, run the car in either pos 2 (engine not running) or start the car for a minute or two. Then drain the system again. This will probably get the system as clean as you could possibly need and is probably an overkill.

Finally, if you live in a warm environment the efficiency benefits of a leaner anti-freeze mix may help with cooling (probably not a lot). I live in AZ now and I am planning to go with a 60/40 (water to anti-freeze) solution which should help a little with heat absorption but still maintain plenty of corrosion protection and maintain a high boiling point. Remember always use distilled water.

Oh and there is a good DIY in the DIY section.
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      09-11-2013, 06:04 AM   #32
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Just amazing my friend
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      09-11-2013, 06:40 AM   #33
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wow real nice job, i wish im as brave as you taking all of those parts out by myself/
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      09-29-2013, 12:43 PM   #34
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As usual, what was supposed to be a quick process has turned into a month long journey.

First up, after looking at my M24 all aluminum radiator I noticed some surface spots. Initially I thought they were from something rubbing on the radiator. After quite a bit of research on modern aluminum radiator production I found out they are actually small spots of the anti-corrosion coming off/dissolving while doing its job.



I was already sending off my OE oil cooler to Pacific Oil Cooler to have it cleaned and tested after sitting for a few months. I called them and asked what they could do for my radiator and found out they could do the same for my radiator as well as Iridite coat it. I am not affiliated with Pacific Oil Cooler but I will tell you they are best known for cleaning and refurbing aircraft oil coolers to FAA standards.

More to come.
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      09-29-2013, 01:21 PM   #35
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Great write up, order my brass bleeder valve now
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      10-13-2013, 11:29 PM   #36
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Radiator and Oil Cooler received back from Pacific Oil Coolers. They look brand new. They opted not to Iridite coat them. They feel the OE coating is superior.



Radiator re-installed. With the VT2 tubing removed I noticed that the one of the hoses was slightly touching one of the protective pulley covers. A quick order from Pelican Parts and I am back in business.



Now on to something more interesting. When I placed my order for Porsche RS green I was told I could get BMW Signal Green which is very similar. Turns out it is identical to Porsche RS green. I even use Porsche touch-up paint which I will demonstrate.



The model paints are for my wheels. You cannot find Volk touch paint so I saw that some people use model paints. I thought it was a great idea and it turns out Tamiya Park Green is nearly identical to Volk Takata Green.

Here is my front bumper at one of the wear points behind the headlight. This is not really in place that can be seen but I am perfectionist so I will touch it up.

Before:



After:



I beefed up the size of the washers for my front lip install.



Brand new bracket I purchased to replaced the one I drilled out for the VT2 water pump.



I decided to replace the oil in my SC while I had things apart. I drain the SC and then add one full bottle. Done.... easy. I disregard the SC dipstick and feel its both inaccurate and useless.



I drained the oil a couple of weeks ago and I wanted to make sure I did not forget.



Almost forgot. New VT1 manifold ready to go on.

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      10-13-2013, 11:47 PM   #37
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Loving the thread, J.

Forgive me: What was the point of sending the coolers off to Pacific if not to be coated? Was it just to flush/clean them? Did they realign all the fins as well?

P.S.: Was able to get the front bumper and headlights out no problem. Thanks again for the tips.
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      10-14-2013, 12:01 AM   #38
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Loving the thread, J.

Forgive me: What was the point of sending the coolers off to Pacific if not to be coated? Was it just to flush/clean them? Did they realign all the fins as well?

P.S.: Was able to get the front bumper and headlights out no problem. Thanks again for the tips.
Primary purpose was to flush and the clean both as well as pressure test both. My OE oil cooler had been sitting in my garage since March and having it cleaned gave me a warm fuzzy.

I was hoping they would re-coat them both and was surprised they did not. After I received them back I called Pacific Oil Cooler and spoke to a tech that told me the OE coating is a better coating and to stick with that for now.

They do straighten all the fins then they flush and clean.

Good to hear the headlight install was painless.
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      10-14-2013, 10:24 AM   #39
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I love back breaking projects like this.

So how long have you been at it?
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      10-14-2013, 11:34 AM   #40
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What a great read. Loving the car dude.
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      10-14-2013, 08:20 PM   #41
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I love back breaking projects like this.

So how long have you been at it?
This time about a month. Should have her back up and running in about another week or two.

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What a great read. Loving the car dude.
Thanks!
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      11-14-2013, 09:22 PM   #42
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Okay time to finish this thing up. I miss driving the beast!

One of the biggest hold ups getting the car back together was caused by some little rivets.



What you see in this pic is the rivet, or at least close to, that originally served as a guide to mate the front clip to the front bumper support and a stainless steel rivet that RealOEM quoted as being the correct rive. In the end the larger aluminum rivet did not work and I ended up using the stainless steel rivet. In hindsight, I would have saved a lot of time and frustration if I had just used a good set of stainless steel nuts/bolts. The rivet is no load bearing and merely serves as a guide to the hold the two large pieces together prior to installation.



What you see here is what the rivets align prior to install. Your looking at the front clip, front bumper support as well as the brackets for the oil cooler.



The car looks like something is missing!



When I removed the original front clip it pulled off some paint around the frame. I used my trusty Porsche touch up paint. I then applied some 3M packaging tape over the mount point to avoid scratching upon re-installation.

You can also see the painters tape I applied to help with lining up the front clip.



The power steering cooler, radiator and AC condenser bracket had a couple scratches on it so I touched those up with some Testors acrylic. I am anal!



Here you can see the front clip, bumper support and oil cooler brackets prior to the alignment rivets being installed. The rivets install in the center hole. The red marks are to help me align the front clip onto the frame of the car. I made the marks prior to disassembly.



Here you can see the rivet installed as well as the front clip installed on the frame. You can also see that my red sharpie marked are lining up with the bolts. Note that the bolts were not centered prior to disassembly.



Front clip, bumper support, oil cooler brackets, oil cooler and lights re-installed!



Here is a picture of one of the hood latches. There are two and they are sort of painful to disassemble. Be really careful with these as you can damage the wires very easily.

Shifting focus, here is the bottom of my RKP GT4 splitter. The splitter has been all over downtown LA, to and from Vegas and all over San Diego. As well as multiple trips between AZ and CA. Its a tough piece and as you can see I have struck it numerous times. The front edge is especially worn in places. I decided to do some preventative maintenance on the edges to prolong my expensive front lips life.

First I needed a good easy to use epoxy. I saw this stuff recommended on a different car forum.



I should have taken some closer before pictures to show you how the resin had been completely worn off in places exposing scuffed up CF and fiberglass. Here is the edge with some epoxy added to some of the more worn areas.



I then added some helicopter rotor blade tape to the edge. This stuff is fairly easy to find on Amazon but its not cheap. A single roll is around $90 but its supposed to be scuff resistant. I am not sure how much it will help. I got the idea from my Porsche days. I guess I will update you guys as I put more miles on the car.



Switching gears, cars with ESS SCs and wide font wheels/tires often experience scuffing on the inner front fender where the filter presses the fender liner towards the wheel. There are some good tricks I learned from Malek at MRF but I was still getting some scuffing at full lock.

I was able to track down a smaller diameter filter through AFE. The filter is virtually the same aside from the large ends diameter which should reduce distortion of the fender liner.



To further reduce the fender liner problem, I cut the front brake duct even more to allow the filter to sit as close to the front of the car as possible.



Installed back into the car the new filter should provide some more clearance. It also looks kinda cool next to the green.

Finally, lets talk about the power steering overflow issues these cars have.

Here is my passenger side fender liner after my last track day. What you are seeing is power steering fluid that has sprayed the fender liner as well as under the hood and pretty much everything else in proximity.



One solution you see a lot is this:



But, this is just a temp fix and eventually you are going to have to top off the reservoir.

When I tracked my car last I brought this problem up to Ilia of IND and he mentioned a solution that 3D Design came up with. Essentially a secondary reservoir above the first that the power steering fluid can expand into and then flow back into the system as needed. Its a really clever design and I am surprised they are not more popular.



The installation is very simple. Take the OE cap off and screw on the 3D expansion reservoir. Then put the cap back on the 3D reservoir... done!



The expansion chamber installed. You can see the vent holes for the fluid to expand.



Installation complete!



So there you have it. VT1-550 sans the cooling elements I previously had. Brass bleeder screw for the coolant tank and expansion chamber for my power steering fluid!



Oops, one more thing. With the installation and maintenance of my oil system I conducted another oil change. This time with the thinner M1 0W-40!



And finally a picture of the completed work!

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      11-15-2013, 12:33 AM   #43
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for the detailed summary and pics!!
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      11-15-2013, 04:50 PM   #44
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Amazing work
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