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      08-26-2013, 05:33 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pkim1079 View Post
This is my dilemma - oil level is at half now. To track is ok? Or should i do a change first?
I've seen bad things happen to cars from oil starvation by taking corners fast. I always fill when halfway.
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      08-26-2013, 05:44 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by radiantm3 View Post
I've seen bad things happen to cars from oil starvation by taking corners fast. I always fill when halfway.
thats my paranoia.

at the same time, how much do i put in when it is only at the halfway point and not at the warning point?

I am taking my car in this week to have an alignment before 2 track days this month. I'll have my tech top it off correctly.
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      08-26-2013, 06:10 PM   #25
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^ Add a quarter liter. You can track on 3/4 full, but check again at the end of the day especially if you're doing a 2-day event. That dipstick is the most finicky thing ever, and if you overfill you have to drain out the bottom since there's no dipstick shaft to use a fluid extractor with. I always add 1/4 liter less than what it wants and it usually ends up right where I want it. The most recent time after an oil change where I specifically asked for only 8.25 liters to be put in, the reading said add 1 qt. I added half a liter and it said "Full". Sigh. So I now always ask for 8.25 liters and tell the tech to give me the remaining 0.75 liters in a bottle so I can add as necessary rather than having to worry that they might have overfilled. The oil capacity is 8.8 liters, FYI.

Just remember the most reliable way to check with that nuisance is to drive 5 miles, then pull over into a level surface, leave the engine idling, and then tell it to measure. Measurements taken while moving tend not to result in the reading changing, even after you've added oil.
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      08-26-2013, 06:13 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radiantm3 View Post
I've seen bad things happen to cars from oil starvation by taking corners fast. I always fill when halfway.
my e46 gets fuel starvation as well any lower than 1/3 tank. only happens on one corner but not a good thing.
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      08-26-2013, 07:02 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1MOREMOD View Post
my e46 gets fuel starvation as well any lower than 1/3 tank. only happens on one corner but not a good thing.
Longwong recommends dry sump high octane gas to solve that issue.
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      08-26-2013, 07:14 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radiantm3 View Post
Longwong recommends dry sump high octane gas to solve that issue.
I just fill up early. He's always making it more complicated.
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      08-26-2013, 07:55 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radiantm3 View Post
I've seen bad things happen to cars from oil starvation by taking corners fast. I always fill when halfway.
+1 - I lost a Porsche 996 engine due to oil starvation at Willow Springs. I would rather have too much oil than not enough. The 996 engine's oil delivery system is flawed IMO which was the primary culprit. It was reassuring to see M3's taking a beating on that same day without issue.
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      08-26-2013, 08:38 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by jacobe92 View Post
First time trackers should tape wheel weights w/ high temperature aluminum tape to prevent it from flying off and having to get it balance later.$$$
i do that to protect the adhesive from the high temps, not to keep them from flying off. you can buy a roll at any home depot. i put it down double thick.
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      08-26-2013, 09:00 PM   #31
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Always bring more than one credit card and some cash, so you won't stuck at the gas pump at the tracks. Especially if you are first time to a track that you never been before.
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      08-26-2013, 09:01 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wwjd15 View Post
Always bring more than one credit card and some cash, so you won't stuck at the gas pump at the tracks. Especially if you are first time to a track that you never been before.
good call. i made the mistake of putting my wallet away then drove straight off track to the pump and wouldnt have made it back if didnt borrow money from another tracker that was at the pumps.
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      08-26-2013, 09:31 PM   #33
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Do not go off and hit nasty curbs that may not look too bad. I bent two of my TE37SLs, luckily I got them fixed, and they run better than new.

Do not try to run your pads way too thin, especially if they are just some "performance" otherwise street compound. I overheated and burnt through the last bits of front pads which resuted in a screwed up rotor surface. After painstaking sanding (I figured that would be best repair and it worked) I got them back in shape (almost), but eventually ended up with bbk and proper race compound.

Do not use blue tape, looks ugly and clear track tape protects better due to thickness. Apply sparingly, do not get carried away

Take a fire extinguisher to the track on super hot days, I have seen enough fires, if you dont help yourself - you'll help soemone else. I vividly recall the GtR that pulled in smoking, next thing you know flames came out and everyone just stood there helplessly, including myself. Luckily, fire track was driving by and took care of the situation, but the car was ruined badly. One more minute it would have been gone for good.

And the more I think about it, if you have the budget for one more mod after brake pads/fluid is the dedicated set of track wheels/tires, then you dont have to deal with stupid weights falling off, vibrations on the street from wear and messed up balance and you can run some sticky tires which give you the most seconds for the buck.

Proper camber is a must as many pointed out. I run 3.5 F 2.5 R on the street and happy, no isssues.

I close my passenger window, many track organizers will tell you to keep it open, but on dusty tracks if you go off hard with both open, you'll be in for some serious interior detail.

Just my 2 cents
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      08-26-2013, 10:05 PM   #34
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1. Don't forget to pump the brakes in your garage after you change the pads.

2. Don't try to get that last session out of brake pads.

3. Don't leave that spare part you never use at home.

4. Don't pack bug and tar remover in the same box as your helmet.

5. One thing I do is my own tech before the tech. If you wait until the tech to find something wrong...its too late. Need to show up to the tech with stuff in top shape.

6. Do an after event tech.

Quote:
Originally Posted by radiantm3 View Post
Overflowing Brake Fluid when Changing Pads
Install fresh pads, top off brake fluid. Never top off unless you replace the pads. When you bleed, return the fluid to the same level.

Quote:
Originally Posted by slicer View Post
+1 - I lost a Porsche 996 engine due to oil starvation at Willow Springs. I would rather have too much oil than not enough. The 996 engine's oil delivery system is flawed IMO which was the primary culprit. It was reassuring to see M3's taking a beating on that same day without issue.
That's a no-no with the S54 and S65. You're oil temps will skyrocket at the track. Keep the oil level just right.
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      08-27-2013, 12:53 AM   #35
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[quote=surlynkid;14563524]
Quote:
Originally Posted by radiantm3 View Post

common mistake home mechanics make all the time. you top off the brake fluid as it drops when the pads wear and then put new pads in and overflow it. it is an issue on pretty much all cars.
Topping off fluid is a mistake by itself - do not do it. Every time you open brake fluid tank, you let moisture in, reducing boiling point. First change pads, then bleed or flush the fluid, not vise-versa. Do not top off unless bleeding or flushing. And triple-check those bleed valves. When they come loose on the fastest corner of your fastest lap and the fluid flows out, it totally ruins the laptime...

Also, on oil - just have a liter with you and when needed add 200ml at a time to be safe. Adding half a liter is easy to overflow. Not adding till low is increasing risk of starvation.

What else? More sleep, less alcohol, and more sleep. Oh, yeah, maybe bringing spare set of tires is a good idea, but I'm still not convinced.
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      08-27-2013, 01:53 AM   #36
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[quote=MaxL]
Quote:
Originally Posted by surlynkid View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by radiantm3 View Post

common mistake home mechanics make all the time. you top off the brake fluid as it drops when the pads wear and then put new pads in and overflow it. it is an issue on pretty much all cars.
Topping off fluid is a mistake by itself - do not do it. Every time you open brake fluid tank, you let moisture in, reducing boiling point. First change pads, then bleed or flush the fluid, not vise-versa. Do not top off unless bleeding or flushing. And triple-check those bleed valves. When they come loose on the fastest corner of your fastest lap and the fluid flows out, it totally ruins the laptime...

Also, on oil - just have a liter with you and when needed add 200ml at a time to be safe. Adding half a liter is easy to overflow. Not adding till low is increasing risk of starvation.

What else? More sleep, less alcohol, and more sleep. Oh, yeah, maybe bringing spare set of tires is a good idea, but I'm still not convinced.
So if my reading says halfway basically just add tenths of a bottle at a time - drive around read levels again, repeat?
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      08-27-2013, 03:50 AM   #37
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Great thread guys!!!

Just a thought - why isn't anyone here providing track-prep services? I'm sure some of the members would be happy...
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      08-27-2013, 06:43 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thorny
Do not go off and hit nasty curbs that may not look too bad. I bent two of my TE37SLs, luckily I got them fixed, and they run better than new.

Do not try to run your pads way too thin, especially if they are just some "performance" otherwise street compound. I overheated and burnt through the last bits of front pads which resuted in a screwed up rotor surface. After painstaking sanding (I figured that would be best repair and it worked) I got them back in shape (almost), but eventually ended up with bbk and proper race compound.

Do not use blue tape, looks ugly and clear track tape protects better due to thickness. Apply sparingly, do not get carried away

Take a fire extinguisher to the track on super hot days, I have seen enough fires, if you dont help yourself - you'll help soemone else. I vividly recall the GtR that pulled in smoking, next thing you know flames came out and everyone just stood there helplessly, including myself. Luckily, fire track was driving by and took care of the situation, but the car was ruined badly. One more minute it would have been gone for good.

And the more I think about it, if you have the budget for one more mod after brake pads/fluid is the dedicated set of track wheels/tires, then you dont have to deal with stupid weights falling off, vibrations on the street from wear and messed up balance and you can run some sticky tires which give you the most seconds for the buck.

Proper camber is a must as many pointed out. I run 3.5 F 2.5 R on the street and happy, no isssues.

I close my passenger window, many track organizers will tell you to keep it open, but on dusty tracks if you go off hard with both open, you'll be in for some serious interior detail.

Just my 2 cents
Don't roll up that window unless you have manual crank windows or a way to break it in 2 seconds. If you are in an accident or some bad situation, that is an escape route while your car is burning. Driver's side may be up against a tire wall. I'll take the cleanup over not being able to get out.
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      08-27-2013, 06:57 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by surlynkid
Quote:
Originally Posted by thorny
Do not go off and hit nasty curbs that may not look too bad. I bent two of my TE37SLs, luckily I got them fixed, and they run better than new.

Do not try to run your pads way too thin, especially if they are just some "performance" otherwise street compound. I overheated and burnt through the last bits of front pads which resuted in a screwed up rotor surface. After painstaking sanding (I figured that would be best repair and it worked) I got them back in shape (almost), but eventually ended up with bbk and proper race compound.

Do not use blue tape, looks ugly and clear track tape protects better due to thickness. Apply sparingly, do not get carried away

Take a fire extinguisher to the track on super hot days, I have seen enough fires, if you dont help yourself - you'll help soemone else. I vividly recall the GtR that pulled in smoking, next thing you know flames came out and everyone just stood there helplessly, including myself. Luckily, fire track was driving by and took care of the situation, but the car was ruined badly. One more minute it would have been gone for good.

And the more I think about it, if you have the budget for one more mod after brake pads/fluid is the dedicated set of track wheels/tires, then you dont have to deal with stupid weights falling off, vibrations on the street from wear and messed up balance and you can run some sticky tires which give you the most seconds for the buck.

Proper camber is a must as many pointed out. I run 3.5 F 2.5 R on the street and happy, no isssues.

I close my passenger window, many track organizers will tell you to keep it open, but on dusty tracks if you go off hard with both open, you'll be in for some serious interior detail.

Just my 2 cents
Don't roll up that window unless you have manual crank windows or a way to break it in 2 seconds. If you are in an accident or some bad situation, that is an escape route while your car is burning. Driver's side may be up against a tire wall. I'll take the cleanup over not being able to get out.
+1 for safety>detailing
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      08-27-2013, 07:53 AM   #40
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Don't forget to cover the power steering fluid reservoir cap......I've seen engines covered after one session.........Phil
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      08-27-2013, 09:02 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by surlynkid View Post
Don't roll up that window unless you have manual crank windows or a way to break it in 2 seconds. If you are in an accident or some bad situation, that is an escape route while your car is burning. Driver's side may be up against a tire wall. I'll take the cleanup over not being able to get out.
I never thought about that. This is a great advice.
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      08-27-2013, 09:13 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Groundpilot
Quote:
Originally Posted by surlynkid View Post
Don't roll up that window unless you have manual crank windows or a way to break it in 2 seconds. If you are in an accident or some bad situation, that is an escape route while your car is burning. Driver's side may be up against a tire wall. I'll take the cleanup over not being able to get out.
I never thought about that. This is a great advice.
Can't figure out if you are being sarcastic or not... He was replying to someone's bad advise...
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      08-27-2013, 10:24 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lsal View Post
Can't figure out if you are being sarcastic or not... He was replying to someone's bad advise...
sounded serious.

with all the electronics in cars, if you lose 12V and cannot get the windows down, you may not be getting out in an accident situation. thus the reason people put those orange handled hammers with the pointed tip to break out a window in an accident on the street.
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      08-27-2013, 11:29 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by surlynkid View Post
sounded serious.

with all the electronics in cars, if you lose 12V and cannot get the windows down, you may not be getting out in an accident situation. thus the reason people put those orange handled hammers with the pointed tip to break out a window in an accident on the street.
Definitely good advise, and I can't for the life of me figure out why someone would risk his health just to avoid getting the car cleaned... Windows down FTW!
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