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      05-11-2013, 04:01 PM   #1
luiscarlos59
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Emissions control air pump???

Hi
I just got the engine light on and the dealer checked and is throwing an error of the Emissions control air pump ( secondary air pump ) which is the one that heats the valves when the car is turned on. From what I have learned is the loud noise when the car is started in cold and it takes around 3 min to shut up.. The situation is that everytime I turn on my engine I hear this sound so Im wondering then the pump is working and the problem might be caused by a relay or something else..

In not sure about this can anyone help me? Thanks
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      05-11-2013, 06:32 PM   #2
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If you're under warranty I'd get it replaced. If not I'd buy a tune with cold start deleted. IMO, better use of money as that pump serves no other purpose.
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      05-11-2013, 07:02 PM   #3
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I just got finished dealing with this same issue. I got the CEL light a couple of weeks ago saying increased emmissions with 2 error codes implicating the secondary air pump.

Here's the technical side: With spark-ignition cars like ours, the greatest amount of pollution comes at cold startup, which requires a rich mixture. Until the catalytic converters reach operating temperatures large quantities of carbon monoxide and unburnt hydrocarbons are produced. To reduce the level of these pollutants, ambient air with high oxygen content ("secondary air") is injected into the exhaust manifold directly downstream of the exhaust valves during the cold start phase. This results in a sort of"after-burning" of the pollutants. The heat generated in this process further heats up the cats and speeds up the onset of the Lambda control action. The secondary air pumps in our M3s are prone to failure because of a failure of a simple checkvalve, that usually fails in the open position. This allows exhaust gases to back flow into the secondary air pump which burns it out prematurely.

The secondary air pump is a $425 part, and requires new check valves at $110 x 2, and that is getting parts online. If you go to the dealer, including parts markup and labor, it's supposedly an $850 repair (ouch, since I am out of warranty). I have heard that you can DIY but I don't know the particulars.

Another solution which i took is to "tune" it out. With any software tune you can delete the cold start up, which gets rid of the whole sequence above and obviates the need for the secondary air pumps. I got a BPM Sport tune (Hi Mike! ) for just a little bit more money than the repair and got the obvious added performance. It's legal, the cats still work, you're not "cheating" the emission controls, they may just not work very efficiently for the first 5 minutes or so. I did notice a sort of catless-smell when I start up my car in my open garage but goes away. I passed my emission check just fine... And my car runs a whole lot better!

Hope this helps.
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      05-12-2013, 01:22 PM   #4
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Thanks a lot for your comments.

Since the dealer only read the problem with the computer without actually looking at the engine/part to see actually what is the problem, they told me I had two possible options: a) Secondary air pump failure (at $550 aprox repair + labor) or b) relay part problem (aprox $115 usd repair).

That's why I wanted to know if there is a way to know if the secondary pump is working by hearing the whole 4 minute process loud noise or if it's not working you still hear this cold startup thing. (Btw when I start it up I hear the whole process, thats why i think it could be only the relay).

And also, after doing the tunning of deleting the cold start, do you still get the CEL light? and thinking in the long-term what would a inspection report from the BMW would result? for example when I sell the car the failure will come up when someone runs a report of the computer of the car?

Regards,
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      05-12-2013, 02:41 PM   #5
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After the tune, no cold start, no CEL, no problem.

For the long term, when selling the car I'll leave the tune, whether that is value-added or not is debatable (I think it is), and I'll be honest with buyers and BMW about the cold start delete. It won't affect the emissions testing at all.
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      05-15-2013, 08:57 PM   #6
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And for my question of.. How to know if my secondary is actually working or not, based on the loud sound i hear the engine starting. Does it means it is working?

thanks
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      05-17-2013, 12:19 PM   #7
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Btw, now the cold start noise is higher than normal!
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      05-18-2013, 01:53 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luiscarlos59
And for my question of.. How to know if my secondary is actually working or not, based on the loud sound i hear the engine starting. Does it means it is working?

thanks
I haven't run into this problem with mine but did on my e36. When you do a cold start put your hand on the SAP and you will feel it working. There should feel it at the intake of the SAP too but I'm not sure where that is on the s65. On the e36 it was a large hose running down to the headlight. I would check to see if it's working and rule out the relay first. Honestly it's one of the dumbest maintenance items out there. I did it on my e36 and just felt like it was a terrible waste of money
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      05-19-2013, 12:14 PM   #9
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Thanks.

I domt know why the cold start noise now is higher than before.. Its some decibels that are now there that is rattling my inside cabin .. I will check it
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